I recreated parts of the expansion joint at the east wall of the room that had been contaminated with Henry 555. I again just used GreatStuff Gaps & Cracks. The objective here was just to prevent thinset from going all the way to the wall when I put down the Ditra.
I sanded and ground a little bit more of the floor levelling and patching.
I went to Home Depot and picked up some sanding belts for my belt sander, a dozen 1/4 sheet sandpaper pieces for my palm sanders, sill seal foam for perimeter expansion joint, 3 fresh bags of VersaBond thinset, and 3 rolls of Kerdi Band. While I technically don't need the floor to be waterproof (not a wet room), I like the idea of sealing the joints of the Ditra before tiling. We'll see if I bought enough; I probably need one more roll, but at $20/roll, I don't want to buy more than I need.
I chiseled out the small areas where the leveler flowed over the top of my original foam expansion gap. I will probably pick up some SilSeal foam before I do the thinset for the Ditra.
I'm glad I bought a new 14" concrete finishing trowel; I could probably use a longer one, but it's a good length for what I need to do with the other areas of the floor. I am not using the new Ridgid mixer for the Henry 549 now since I'm mixing in small batches in a 2 gallon bucket. But the mixer will be used again when I get to the thinset for the Ditra.
I ran a bead of GreatStuff Gaps and Cracks around the perimeter of the room, just to maintain an expansion gap when patching and later thinset and Ditra. Once it cured, I trimmed it where it was too thick.
I applied the first coat of Henry 549 in the largest area. I used the whole 7 lb. box but will need to apply more. It's not much fun to work with due to a short setting time, but I think I did well given I haven't used suich a product in over 10 years.
So for the moment I'm back to using the Henry 549. I think I'll be OK going this route. It's not like I haven't flattened a floor before (did mortar tile beds with my father). And mistakes here are easier to correct than SLC gone wrong. I need to mark up the floor using my straight edges.
I picked up some supplies and tools at Home Depot:
I picked up a 1/4"x3/16" V-notch trowel at Home Depot to install the Ditra to the floor.
I moved the final Middle Atlantic MDV-R12 out of the den. It was the final piece of furniture that needed to be removed.
I then custom cut 2x10 lumber to sister the remainder of the accessible parts of each joist, and installed with screws and Loctite PL Premium where possible. Some areas were difficult to reach due to ductwork.
To make the most of this work, I then created custom X-braces for each inter-joist gap from 1.75" thick LVL. These will prevent the joists from twisting. I removed the old 1X crossbraces before I sistered the joists, since they were in the way. They've been replaced with the much stronger and stiffer LVL X-braces, and I added a second row of LVL X-braces.
I have one or two flitch beams and sisters to do, though as near as I can tell with my bounce tests, they're not necessary. But I bought the wood and steel, I might as well use it. My bounce tests are just me bouncing on the floor with a floor lamp loctated elsewhere in the room. Before I started this work, the lamp would wobble a LOT. Now it doesn't appear to wobble at all. I have yet to redo my dial indicator measurements, but I don't think it's necessary. I can't do any more reinforcement of the joists, I'd need a support beam and floor jacks to make it any stifer. I'm avoiding that for now since I am not at the point where I can start designing basement finishing.
I bought 5 bags of Mapei Uncoupling Membrane Mortar (thinset) at Lowe's. This is an unmodified thinset, which is what I need for use over Schluter Ditra.
I tweaked my back and right bicep moving all of this weight (over 1000 pounds) from the store to my truck and then my truck to the basement. It'll probably take a couple of days for my back to recover.
I would like to use Ditra-Set as the thinset for the tiles. It's expensive but it's a quality unmodified thinset and doesn't void the Schluter Ditra warranty. It appears that I'll have to order it online.
I installed oak plugs in the pocket holes of the top trim. I then sanded the legs and faces.
I moved my stacked double fan into the back door of the garage and turned both fans on high to exhaust dust. I opened the garage window and turned my wall-mounted dock fan on high for intake. I then used my electric leaf blower to blow some of the dust out of the garage.
Once the dust was gone and settled, I put a coat of polyurethane on the new workbench. I don't expect to put a second coat on it, since it's just a workbench; I just want it reasonably sealed. All of the surfaces I coated today are vertical except for edges, and hence won't ever have liquid pooled on them. The top is laminate, and when I'm working on something wet, I'll be covering the workbench.
I drilled, chamfered and filed 21 of the bench dog holes that are aligned with the end vise. I'll likely stop here, since I don't foresee a need for more holes. I can clamp anywhere on the perimeter of the bench top,
I sealed the bench dog holes for the front vise with a coat of polyurethane. This is just to help prevent spills from seeping between the plies of the plywood.
I drilled, routed and deburred the remaining 12 bench dog holes that are aligned with the front vise. It's a slow process with the drill guide. I sped things up a bit by creating a 1/4" plywood sled to hold the wood block that holds the drill guide. This will also be used for the holes that will be aligned with the end vise.
I filled some of the dimples in the top of the bench with water putty. This was just so they don't telegraph through the surface of the laminate.
I also filled the remaining pocket holes in the legs with water putty. They'll likely need a second application.
I set up my sawhorses and some scrap plywood to hold the laminate for the application of contact cement. I put a coat of Weldwood contact cement on the plywood bench top, then a coat on the back of the laminate, then a second coat on the plywood bench top since it soaks into the plywood a bit. Once it dried to slightly tacky, I put 6 3/4" dowels on top of the bench and then put the laminate on top of the dowels in order to position it. Once positioned, I removed the dowels one at a time, working from the center outward, and rolled it flat with my laminate roller. I then trimmed it flush with a 3-flute flush cutting bit in my router.
I drilled the laminate where the vise mounting bolts will be countersunk. I messed up a bit on the ones for the end vise, but it's no big deal. It's a workbench, not a piece of furniture. I didn't make any mistakes on the ones for the front vise.
I mounted the vises in order to figure out the edge trim. The vises are nice, and very secure.
I cut the trim pieces to length for the front and sides of the top. They're solid oak. I drilled the pocket hole screws to hold the side pieces to the front piece. I drilled countersink holes for the mounting screws at the drill press. I installed the trim pieces using screws and Titebond III. I ran my flush cut bit around the trim pieces once installed, to make it flush with the laminate, then used a wood chisel to trim the tiny strip I intentionally didn't cut with the router bit (to avoid hitting the laminate). I sanded a bit with 100 grit sandpaper, but didn't do all of the sanding since I need to plug the pocket holes. I'm debating whether or not I'll plug the screw holes in the edge trim of the bench top.
I drilled 6 of the bench dog holes for the front vise, then chamfered the top edges of the holes with a 25 degree router bit. They work nicely with the Kreg bench dogs.
I rounded the edges of the foot pads with my palm sander, just to prevent snagging the outer ply with something in the future.
I installed the casters, cut the carriage bolts to length with a metal EZ-Lock cutting wheel on my Dremel, then smoothed the cuts and top of the nuts with a 3" Roloc sanding disk on my die grinder.
I installed more pocket hole plugs. I miscalculated the number of pocket holes, so I'm out of the 100 plugs I bought. I'll probably fill the remaining holes with water putty, since I'm not looking for beauty here; I just want a flush surface. I used my die grinder to sand the plugs flush.
I turned the bench upright again. It rolls very nicely on the new casters.
I drilled the countersinks for the vise bolts a little deeper so I can use a router bit with a bearing guide to trim the laminate around these holes once the laminate is installed. It will also let me stack washers inside the countersinks, which will help prevent the washers from becoming conical.
I think I'm ready to apply the laminate. I haven't done this in a very long time, and the piece will be a little big to handle solo, but it should be possible. I cut the laminate slightly oversized so I can trim it with a flush cutting bit in my router once it's installed.
The Schioppa GL 412 NTE G L12 casters arrived from Amazon. I think these will work well.
I drilled the holes and countersinks for the 5/16" carriage bolts in the remaining foot pads, using the drill press. These will hold the casters to the legs of the bench. I then put the carriage bolts into the first layer of the foot pads and installed the first layer of the footpads on the bench legs with the carriage bolt heads sandwiched in the joint. I used Loctite PL Premium adhesive, pocket hole screws and deck screws to bond the feet to the legs. For the most part, it's the Loctite PL Premium that I expect to hold the pads to the legs. I then used Titebond III and deck screws to attach the second layer of the foot pads. I'll let this cure overnight before attaching the casters in order to cut the carriage bolts to length.
I glued and screwed the remaining plywood foot supports to the sides of the workbench legs.
I also drilled 5/16" holes in one of the 1.5" stacked plywood feet to match the pattern of the new casters. My intent here is to use 5/16" carriage bolts with the heads hidden inside the feet, so I can change the casters if ever necessary without compromising the feet of the bench. The downside is that like most casters, the Schioppa L12 casters don't have enough clearance for a standard height nylon locknut, and I'll have to grind off the carriage bolts to just the right height after I install the casters. Not a big deal, and I think it's worth the effort to make it easier to swap out casters if ever necessary. I expect the new casters to last a long time, but I'd rather have bolts and nuts here rather than lag screws.
I installed The first layer of 3/4" plywood for the top of the bench. I used Loctite PL Premium and 1-5/8" deck screws to fasten it to the base.
After letting the first layer cure for about an hour, I slathered about a pint of Titebond II on the top and installed the second layer of 3/4" plywood.
Later I glued down the 1/4" final layer, and used my 18-gauge brad nailer to keep it in place while the glue cures.
I patched the chipouts in the 1/4" plywood that happened when I drilled the holes for the vise bolts. I just used Loctite PL Premium.
I ran my Freud flush-cutting bit around the top of the bench to bring the 1/4" top piece flush. I'll be using it again when I install the laminate.
I ordered some 3/8"x4" 316 stainless steel button head hex drive screws, 316 stainless steel washers and 316 stainless steel serrated flange locknuts from McMaster-Carr to secure the vises. I decided against the carriage bolts because I want to be certain that I can fully tighten the fasteners, and I want washers to better distribute the pressure on the plywood under the head of the screws.
I've decided that the Everbilt casters I bought a long time ago to use on the bench aren't sufficient. I learned this the hard way from the smaller version of these casters on my router table. Their brake levers are weak and bend if you activate the brake with the wheel in a position where the teeth for locking the spindle are not aligned. So I ordered some Schioppa L12 casters from Amazon. I ordered some with nylon wheels that have a load rating of 375 pounds, and some with polypropylene wheels rated at 275 pounds. Hopefully slipperiness will not be an issue, but we'll see. I considered polyurethane wheels, but they're all rated at 275 pounds or less. I don't know the total weight of the bench, but it's probably close to 300 pounds once the vises are installed. I generally prefer my casters to be able to handle a lot more weight than what they're supporting, since there will be times when I'm rolling it over uneven surfaces (in/out of the garage) or working on something heavy on top of the bench. And in the garage, the bench will occasionally be used as a platform when working on something on the ceiling.
At any rate, I intend to use the nylon wheel casters. I bought the polypropylene ones because they were really cheap at $9.32 each. I will likely wind up using them for my basement bench.
I trimmed and sanded the pocket hole plugs that I installed in the interior of the torsion box last night. I also sanded the remainder of the interior of the torsion box and applied one coat of polyurethane and then a second coat on the bottom of the interior. This doesn't need to look pretty, it just needs to be sealed reasonably well.
I installed the remaining 1x2 supports for the bench top, and also installed the 1.5" thick support for the end vise. Everything feels pretty solid at this point.
I glued most of the pocket hole plugs in place (paint grade). I stopped after my new box of 50 was empty.
Tomorrow I hope to do some sanding of the inside so I can put a coat of polyurethane on the interior of the torsion box. I can then start installing the two sheets of 3/4" plywood and single sheet of 1/4" plywood that will be the top of the bench. The first piece will be glued to the base with Loctite PL Premium and then screwed down. The second piece will be glued and screwed to the first using liberal amounts of Titebond II, and the final piece will be glued and screwed to the second using liberal amounts of Titebond II. I basically want the top to behave as a solid 1.75" thick piece of plywood. Dimenstionally stable and strong. For the top finish, I have a very dark gray piece of Formica brand laminate that I'll glue in place with Weldwood contact cement. I bought some 3/4" dowels that I'll use to position the laminate once the contact cement is tacky.
After I trim the laminate, I'll drill the bench dog holes using the drill guide bushing and drill bit I bought for this purpose.
The end goal is a bench I can use for woodworking.
I finished installing the front vise support. It's very solid, and will be even more so once the 1.75" of plywood top is installed. I used Loctite PL Premium as the adhesive, and several pocket hole screws to secure the 1.5" block to the vertical plywood parts of the torsion box. There are also four Simpson GA2 gussets as additional support.
The second vise arrived today. I finished drilling the mounting holes for both vises, through the total of 3" of plywood. I also marked the 1/4" plywood so I can later cut larger holes in it to let the carriage bolt heads pass through it. I haven't drilled these holes yet since I want to glue the laminate to the 1/4" plywood before I drill those holes.
I have a 3/4" drill guide bushing and precision 3/4" drill bit that I am hoping to use to create dog holes in the top of the workbench. As of yet I'm not sure how well the bit will work for laminate. But it looks much like the one sold at leevalley.com that's intended for dog holes, but I bought mine from McMaster-Carr. I'll test it before I start making holes in the actual benchtop.
I cut the interior pieces of plywood, notched the corners to allow 1x2 to pass through, and drilled the pocket holes. I then applied Loctite PL Premium on the bottom edge of these pieces and some Titebond III to the sides, tapped them into place with a mallet, then installed all of the pocket hole screws.
I cut the two 3/4" thick pieces of plywood that will support my end vise. I then clamped them together and drilled the holes for the Wilton 79A vise. I then glued them together with Titebond III and clamped them for curing with the carriage bolts in place to keep them aligned.
I cut the three pieces of plywood for the bench top. Two 3/4" thick pieces and a 1/4" thick piece. I drilled the holes for the end vise carriage bolts in the 3/4" thick pieces. The 1/4" thick piece will get larger holes that will allow the head of the carriage bolts to be countersunk (and visible from the top of the bench).
I cut the rear oak 1x2 that will be installed at the top of the rear face on the inside, to provide more screw area for the top and to provide a little more strength against flexing.
I ordered the second Wilton 79A vise. Amazon says it will arrive Monday, but I'm not inclined to believe that since Monday is a holiday.
I also cut and installed the support framework for the bottom of the torsion box part of the bench.
I have a decent plan for the remainder of the cabling I need. I need fiber to the den, which is relatively easy as long as I do it before I migrate the second floor ethernet runs into the conduit. I also need fiber to the family room, the area in the basement that will eventually be home theater, and Bedroom 2.
I also started repairing the oversized hole for the electrical box that houses the cable TV and satellite cables. I started with joint compound just to get a good hard base to cling to the gypsum.
I still need to order more short shielded cat6a patch cables, 6 meter fiber patch cables and fiber keystones for the den, and fiber patch cables for the family room, master bedroom and Bedroom 2. I don't want to run more cat6a until I run the fiber, since I want to be gentle on the LC connectors on the fiber. I need space in my conduits to accomodate the LC connectors in order to be gentle on the fiber as I pull those runs.
I also ran cat6a to the master bedroom but haven't installed the jacks yet. The previous owner hacked up the wall where I want the jacks. He cut two giant holes in the baseboard, and the hole for the wall plate in that wall is much bigger than the wall plate. I'll need to patch this up when I remodel the master bedroom.
I finished connecting the new cat6a for Den_6 at both ends, and reconnecting what are now Den_4 and Den_5. I buttoned up the wall plate for these connections, using the new Leviton 3-port brown Decora insert.
I then did the same thing on the west wall, with Den_3 now being cat6a and connected to a 10GbaseT port on the main switch. I rearranged the keystones in the patch panel a bit since I wanted Den_3 closer to port 49 and 50 on the switch.
I'm trying to figure out what I need mid to long term in the den to migrate to 10 gigabit ethernet. For now I only need my hackintosh to have 10 gigabit connectivity to kiva and www, but in the long run I'll probably want at least one more machine in the den to have 10 gigabit connectivity (whatever Julie's future machine turns out to be). I think I'd be fine with a Netgear XS708E. But I'd like to add a Ubiquiti ES-16-XG in the basement to allow ria, kiva and www to all have 10 gigabit connectivity and to allow fiber uplinks to other rooms like the den, the family room and the future home theater in the basement. Right now, 10GbaseT is a power hog, and cat6a cable is huge and has all the typical problems with copper (EMI, etc.). And the future is fiber; we're not getting beyond 10 gigabit with copper in the home.
I cut the holes in thirteen support plates for the 1.5" PVC stubs using a hole saw on the drill press. Obviously it was slow going since it's not easy to remove the plug from the hole saw after each hole. I then installed all of these plates, mostly because I wanted to use up the Loctite PL Premium before it turned solid.
These holes are oversized for 1.5" PVC, but that's OK. I want some wiggle room. I installed PVC stubs in 10 of them, but did not primer and glue them since dry fitting is sufficient. Each stub is just a short piece of PVC pipe passing through the joist and support plate with a hub-to-hub coupler on each end to keep it in place.
To ground the keystone patch panels, and also ground my incoming Comcast connection (sigh, the tech didn't ground ANY of it), I installed an Eaton grounding block on the plywood panel on the basement wall. I ran AWG6 bare copper ground wire to a bronze grounding clamp on the cold water pipe that's already bonded to my service ground (in the main breaker box). My new clamp is literally a few inches from the one that goes to the service ground. I ran AWG10 solid wire with green insulation to the first Comcast splitter/amplifier so it's now grounded. For the new patch panels for cat6a, I have to wait until they arrive. I know they have ground wires included, with unknown length. There appears to be a spade connector on the end. I bought a cheap terminal block to distribute ground to the patch panels. Note that this grounding is NOT for safety. It's only for the EMI shield inside the cat6a cabling.
I need to mount the new patch panels. I considered a few different 4U hinged wall-mount rack brackets, but I don't want my jacks to be perpendicular to the wall. Given that my cables need to go to my 25U rack enclosure, I want them at roughly 45 degrees (downward). This reduces cable strain and bend radius issues, and also helps prevent dust in the contacts. So I bought some 4U rack rails and will fabricate a mount from plywood. I'm working on a design in SketchUp.
I've decided that I don't need or want my CATV feeds in an enclosure. I don't expect to ever make this part of the basement finished, so all I really need is a piece of plywood to which I can attach the splitters/amplifiers. So a couple of days ago I finished cutting, priming and painting a 32" x 24" piece of 2/4" thick plywood to attach to the wall. My structured media enclosure will be attached to it, along with CATV splitters/amplifiers and my cable modem. I'm also attaching a power strip with a 10' long cord that will be plugged into one of my UPS systems. That will allow my cable modem and CATV amplifiers to be on UPS so I won't instantly lose Internet during a power outage (important for the notifications sent to my cell phone when a UPS goes to battery). I haven't yet decided how to attach the cable modem. While it has 3 mounting slots, they don't provide a desirable orientation without adding some type of mount on the plywood. I guess I'll need to create that mount, or a small shelf.
I cut and pre-drilled a pair of 32" long furring strips from 1.5" wide x 3/4" thick oak. I attached one of them to the wall with Red Head 1/4" x 2" hammer-set anchors. Obviously I had to hammer drill the holes for the anchors, which I did with my old Porter-Cable 1/2" hammer drill. I wish I had an SDS hammer drill, it would go a LOT faster. I removed the structured media enclosure and the old small piece of plywood behind it, which required grinding the heads off of the old Red Head hammer-set anchors. I then installed the second furring strip.
I installed the new plywood piece with 1/2" nylon spacers on top of the furring strips. This leaves me just a bit of room to run cable behind it as needed. I then installed the structured media enclosure on the new plywood, then a power strip that's connected to my main UPS, then my cable modem, the CATV amplifier and the CATV splitter. I will later need to install a new CATV amplifier with more ports since right now I'm only feeding one TV and Comcast only gave me a single output 15dB amplifier. The setup seems odd since the run to my TV is short and I'd normally expect somewhere near +15dB coming into the house, but Comcast did this work before they moved the head closer to my house. I'm guessing that I could get away with less amplification now, but I'll probably just leave this amplifier in place and replace the downstream splitter with a unity gain 8-output amplifier.
I'm now making new shorter coax cables to clean things up. The CATV amplifier power cable was very long but can now be very short. Ditto for the cable from the splitter to my cable modem. And with the coax removed from my structured media enclosure, I can now add two more 12-port keystone patch panels (though I likely only need one for the foreseeable future).
I picked up a Square D QO 15A single pole circuit breaker for the new outlet in the den, and 100' of 14/2 NM-B wire. I ran the wire through the basement, installed an old-work electrical box and a Leviton R05-T5632-0BE outlet with USB charging ports (3.6 amps). I then installed the circuit breaker in the subpanel since the main panel is completely full (and already has a large number of tandem breakers in it). Kind of a shame that I used a breaker for a single outlet, but it is what it is. A tandem breaker is 3 times the price, and until I refinish the basement, I don't need it.
I cut another hole in the wall near the room door for a pair of ethernet ports. I fished two cat6 cables and terminated one with orange Cat6 keystones on each end (one for the wall plate, one for the patch panel) and one with white keystones on each end. These are 'Den_3' and 'Den_4', respectively. I tested both runs after terminating, then installed the keystones in the patch panel. I then installed the keystones in a Decora keystone insert and installed it in the new electrical box in the wall, and installed a new wall plate.
I pulled two Cat6 cables to the new box in the west wall of the den. I terminated one cable with Legrand Cat6 blue keystone jacks on each end. This one is "Den 1". I labelled it with Dymo heatshrink label tubing just outside of the enclosure in the basement. I terminated the second cable with Commercial Electric Cat6 beige keystone jacks. This one is "Den 2". I ran out of heatshrink label tubing and hence labelled this one with flexible nylon labelling from the Dymo Rhino 6000. In the den, I installed a temporary Leviton 2-port white decorator keystone insert and installed the jacks (later to be changed to black). I installed a Brainerd beaded wall plate in Venetion bronze color.
I hemmed and hawed about where to place one of the USB charging receptacles on the west wall. I decided the northmost receptacle was the correct one. I installed it there and installed the Brainerd beaded wall plate. Two things worth noting: the Leviton black receptables are glossy, and dinged/scratched pretty good before packaging. I'm not a fan, I probably should've ordered the Hubbell ones in brown or just bought the lower-current Legrand brown ones (which are matte finish). Or sanded them with 1000+ grit sandpaper before installing to knock off the sheen. Second note: the receptacle I replaced had two hot wires (one black, one red) but only one neutral. I'm not sure why the receptacle was used to chain hot but not neutral, and I didn't have time to prod with my DMM.
I need to install two more ethernet ports, on the east wall. These will likely be used for one of my networked printers, and possibly the Ooma Telo.
I discovered that the AC receptacle in the northeast corner of the room is too close to the panel moulding to accomodate anything but a standard width wall plate. Even then, the receptacle has to be as far as possible to the other side of the enclosure, and the standard wall plate is crammed against the panel moulding. Sigh, why can't finish carpenters do the right thing when they run into this kind of problem? Or better, why did the electrican position this box crammed into the corner?
At any rate, I can't use a matching wall plate in this spot without quite a bit of demolition or an ugly hack to the mouldings; the wall plates I bought are wider than standard, and I did that because someone overcut some of the holes for the AC outlets and I wanted to hide the overcuts. Sigh.
I'm trying to decide when to gel stain the banister and its base. It would make sense to do it now since the base is as exposed as it will ever be.
I went to 'Pigeon in the Parlor' in Holly for two quarts of General Finishes Java Gel Stain and two quarts of Arm-R-Seal.
I stuffed all of the old carpet padding into a large contractor's trash bag for this week's trash collection.
I put a couple of test coats of the gel stain on a small section of the handrail, using an old sock. I don't know how far I'll get with this technique; it works, but I think I might decide to paint it on with a brush instead since I'm aiming for a fairly dark result.
I started removing the carpet, carpet pad, tack strip and staples from the subfloor. I'm about done; it's all removed, but I need to haul the trash to the garage, scrape the subfloor, and vacuum. Tomorrow I need to make a plan for moving my desk to the den as part of clearing out Bedroom 1. The den is full of stuff right now, including 18 boxes of hardwood that I will be using in the second floor hallway and Bedroom 1.
I replaced the overhead light switch with the Lutron MS-OPS5M I pulled from the basement stairwell. I replaced the old paddle switch for the shower light with a Lutron MS-OPS2.
I cut back about 1/2" of the drywall in the attic access hole, above the trim, to accomodate weatherstripping. No visible change to the closet, just correcting a poor job by the original builder.
Using some Strong-Tie braces, I installed a 1x4 piece of pine at one end of the attic access hole. It's on edge, flush with the bottom of the trusses. This is to help prevent blown-in insulation from falling into the closet when accessing the attic.
I went to Lowe's for some D profile weatherstripping for the attic access box, a pair of 3.25" diameter white wall protectors (to protect the walls from doorknobs), and some new Mechanix gloves to alleviate some stress on my hands when doing yard work later this week. The wall protectors will go underneath my Rockwood door stops. I'm doing this because I had to put a fairly significant patch on the wall from the room doornob going through the drywall before I bought the house. I need the additional surface area to make sure I never blow out my patch from the knob hitting the door stop.
I moved some of the blown-in cellulose insulation adjacent the attic access hole and installed two layers of R19 fiberglass in its place. This gives me a place to set the attic access box when entering the attic without dragging a bunch of cellulose into the closet. I then marked the bottom of the attic access box for weatherstripping and installed the weatherstripping on the attic box. It fits fine.
I installed the newly configured closet storage.
I installed the newly patched and painted room door. I also installed the Rockwood 404.15 door stop, on top of a 3.25" diameter wall protector. I like it, and the wall protector helps spread the load on my patch of the damage done by the previous owners who had no door stop at all. It's installed with a Snaptoggle, and I removed the adhesive tape from the wall protector using WD40 and then dish soap to clean off the WD40. Hence I can easily change to a different bumper or entirely different stop if ever desired. But these Rockwood ones are hefty cast solid brass, much nicer than the stamped crap at Home Depot and Lowe's that have visible dimples.
I removed the builder's paper from the north part of the room and installed the new Signature Hardware floor register.
All of the electrical outlets are installed, with the new wall plates.
I went to Lowe's and Home Depot for Decora inserts and more wall plates so I can install matching wall plates for the gigabit ethernet ports, phone jacks and cable TV jack.
I installed a Lutron MS-OPS2H-WH light switch for the closet. It's set for vacancy mode (manual on, auto off) with a timeout of 15 minutes. I installed the new wall plate for it.
I installed a decora keystone insert and a coax connector in the box for the cable TV. I installed a new wall plate for it.
I installed a decora phone jack insert and new wall plate to replace the old phone jack/plate.
I installed a 2-port keystone decora insert and wall plate for the pair of gigabit ethernet connections.
I now have all of the outlets, switches and jacks installed with matching wall plates. Probably a rarity in a home of this age, but the details matter to me.
I mixed the second gallon of Sherwin-Williams Duration 'Concord Buff' with the Shur-Line mixing paddle on my old Black & Decker drill. The speed control on this drill is horrible, and as a result I slopped some paint on the bathroom floor. Not a big deal since it's ceramic tile. I cleaned it up.
I applied the second coat of edge paint on the walls in the closet.
I rolled the second coat of paint on the room walls and the closet walls.
I cleaned another window grille, this time with Dawn dish soap and then denatured alcohol. I then sanded, primed and painted it. It turns out that the original finish is a faux wood finish; gel stain over off-white paint, so it sanded fairly easily. I wasn't looking to completely remove the finish, just smooth the rough spots.
I removed the masking tape in the room. The paint job looks good.
Once the paint was dry to the touch, I installed the wall plate on the room light switch. I installed a Legrand LED nightlight wall receptacle and new wall plate just inside the door of the room.
No problems at all with the green Frogtape.
I cleaned one of the window panelizer frames. I then sprayed two thin coats of Rust-Oleum Adhesion Promoter primer on it and a coat of Rust-Oleum enamel in satin white (same as the window sashes). This one is basically a test to see if I can get away with just painting them instead of buying white ones. Unfortunately, hours later I found a couple of spots had wrinkled. I know I didn't apply too much paint, and most of it is fine. My conclusion is that I need to clean the frames with a mild solvent before priming. I have no idea what may have been spilled on them before I bought the house.
After dinner I put the second coat on the remaining edges inside the room. I also noticed that there was some severe roller shedding on one of the walls. I think this was from a roller cover I used when priming my repairs. Wish I had noticed it before applying the first coat of paint. I sanded most of them out. I'm not overly concerned about it since they were only vislble if a light was placed in contact with the wall, and I'm using flat paint to help hide the massive amount of repair I had to do after removing glued-on chair rails and wallpaper.
Once the baseboard paint was dry, I painted all the edges in the closet. I didn't tape the ceiling or the door casings. I should have, since it takes me longer to cut in with a sash brush and get a decent line than it does for me to tape. Especially since I'll have to do it again on the second coat.
I started taping the main room in preparation for painting the walls. I'll probably tape the closet ceiling while I'm at it.
I caulked two spots in the closet. I then put the second coat of paint on the trim inside the closet, including the door jamb and door stop. I put the second coat of paint on the casings on the outside of the closet entry, and also the closet door entablature. When it dries, the closet will be ready for wall paint.
I put the second coat of paint on the room door casings, interior jambs and entablature.
I removed the masking of the window jamb liners, then decided I didn't like the visible gap between the jamb liner edge and the jamb. So I caulked all of those gaps with DAP Alex Plus. This means I'll need to touch up the west and north window jambs with another coat of paint since the caulk will yellow if it's not painted.
The Victorian style return air grilles arrived. For the one I'm using in this room, I needed to slightly enlarge the hole in the wall, vertically. I would need to do this even if I were reinstalling the old grille, since the crown moulding impinged on the space available for the top flange of the grille. We're only talking about roughly 1/4", not a big deal. I enlarged the hole using my Bosch MX30 oscillating tool, then drilled pilot holes for the screws and tested the fitment. It's good.
I like the grilles, but we'll see what I think after I've installed one. They're obviously not in the style of anything else, but they're nicer than the builder-grade stamped metal grilles they will replace.
The floor registers arrived from Signature Hardware. Wow, one day delivery?
I put the first coat of paint on all of the trim that didn't have a first coat, except for the baseboard and shoe moulding and the north door casing inside the closet. The latter just because that was a logical place to stop since my PaintPal was out of paint. I haven't done the baeboard and shoe because I haven't caulked it yet, though it doesn't look like it needs caulk anywhere. I'll probably caulk it anyway with a thin bead of Alex Plus, then put the first coat of paint on the baseboard and shoe so I'll have the first coat on all of the trim. Then tomorrow I can hopefully apply the second coat and be ready to tape for wall painting on Thursday. I'm probably going to try painting the closet walls without taping, just to see how it goes.
I put a coat of flat black paint on the inside of the wall cavity behind the cold air return grille.
I ordered a Victorian style cold air return grill from Home Depot. I would have preferred a different style, but I couldn't find anything nice-looking that wasn't ludicrously expensive. I don't need cast iron or solid brass for a grille that will never be touched (it's located 7' off the floor).
I need some flat black paint to paint the inside of the wall behind the cold air return grille. I picked up a quart at ACE Hardware today.
I spent a little bit of time creating a template for the curve I want for pulvinated friezes above the bedroom doors on the hallway side. Bedroom 1 must have one since it doesn't have room for anything but a pulvinated frieze (or no door entablature at all). I need to figure out what I want to do for the top casing and architrave. For the cornice I'm assuming I'll use the same stackup I used inside the room; a cove and a Classical. But I should probably swap the order; the piece routed with the Classical bit should really be underneath the cove piece since it's technically a load-bearing profile while the cove is a terminating profile. It's a little vague with the Classical router bit since it leaves almost 3/8" untouched and leaves a small horizontal fillet, but I usually think "last curve convex = load-bearing" and "last curve concave = terminating". The smart thing to do is create a small model and see if I like the cove on top. Part of the reason I haven't done cove on top is that the window tops will get touched on occasion (window treatments yet to be decided), and the cove edge is fragile if unprotected. OK for solid hardwood, not so good for MDF.
I put the second coat of paint on the ceiling.
I did the first round of cut-in paint on the ceiling. However, I'm now thinking I might need to prime the ceiling. Ceiling paint doesn't cover very well.
I removed the light fixture in preparation for rolling the ceiling. I'll be installing a new fixture that I bought a long time ago.
I rolled the first coat of paint on the ceiling.
I finished putting the first coat of paint on the crown moulding. I put the second coat on the north wall crown moulding. Later I put the second coat on the remainder of the crown moulding. Due to the crappy brush I used on the first coat, the crown moulding will need a third coat.
I caulked the top of the window entablatures with DAP 3.0 since those gaps were about 1/8" and I want a good, crack-free seal here.
I caulked the closet interior baseboard and casings with Alex Fast Dry, and decided it's too runny to use elsewhere. Might be an old tube since Home Depot is notorious for selling ancient caulk. It was literally thinner than the Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer.
I bought 3 tubes of DAP Alex Plus at ACE Hardware and started caulking the room. I'm not caulking all joints, since some of them don't need it. I caulked the areas on the windows that needed it, and the crown moulding joints to the ceiling and wall.
I put the first coat of paint on the crown moulding above the west and north windows. I then put the first coat of paint on the west and north window casings, jambs, stools and aprons. This is really just a protective coat and to see what it looks like in daylight tomorrow when I'll brush on a bit of the wall paint. I need to finish painting the crown moulding and paint the ceiling before I really paint the remaining trim.
I bought some Premium Wall & Wood Primer at Sherwin-Williams. I bought some Floetrol and a gallon of satin pure white paint from Home Depot.
I primed the window trim, all of the closet trim, the door casings and all of the base and shoe moulding except one section with the Sherwin-Williams primer.
I did some minor patching of baseboard and crown. I sanded where needed, then put a second coat of primer on the crown moulding. I also put a second coat of primer on the west and north window jambs.
I remasked the closet floor in preparation for a coat of primer on all of the trim.
I put the first coat of primer on the crown moulding. Nail holes and board-to-board joints look good. I now need to fill wall-to-board and ceiling to board gaps. I think I'm going to use joint compound since it's easier to work with than caulk and the boards are so firmly attached to the walls and ceiling that they shouldn't move relative to each other.
I put some primer on some of the corners of the base and shoe moulding, mostly just to protect my spackling.
I put the first coat of primer on the west and north window jambs, as well as the room door jamb (finally). They'll all need a second coat to make sure the wood stain never leeches into the final finish.
I picked up a Zircon HD900 at Home Depot. It works better than my old stud finder, but like my old one, it doesn't find the studs above the windows. However, I'm going to keep it. It works better, I like the center indication for studs, and I like the AC wiring detection. I bought a Klein multimeter case to store the Zircon HD900 when it's not in use.
I also bought some Bessey clutch-type clamps. I've run short of clamps on some projects for the house, and as every woodworker always says... you can never have enough clamps. Home Depot's current price on the Bessey clutch-type clamps is better than anyone else's price.
I also bought some 9V batteries since the HD900 doesn't come with one and I was out. I also bought some CR2032 batteries since my Wixey depth gauge's battery was dead.
I finished the crown moulding cornice installation on the ceiling.
I marked the studs on the west wall and tacked support blocks to the west wall in preparation for the crown moulding lower detail installation. This piece is about 130" long with a 45° bevel on the south end and a 22.5° bevel on the north end. I cut and installed this piece. I then cut and installed the lower detail piece over the west window, which was roughly 48.5" long with 22.5° bevels on each end. Two more smaller pieces and one more 11 footer and I'll be done installing the lower detail. I'll probably do a first pass fill and prime on these pieces before I start the center crown pieces, just because it's easier to do some of it before the center piece is installed.
I installed two pieces of cornice on the south edge of the ceiling, with a scarf joint in the middle since I wasn't able to find primed MDF 1x4's locally that were longer than 8'. I cut two more pieces but haven't installed them yet.
I created support blocks for the lower detail, tacked them in place, then cut and tested the fitment of the lower detail on the south wall. After marking the location of studs in the wall with masking tape, I installed the lower detail on the south wall. Not easy since it was more than 11 feet long, I'm working alone, and MDF is floppy.
I installed the first cornice piece on the east wall and the first cornice piece on the west wall. I also cut and installed the second piece on the west wall; 39+7/8" long with a 22.5° miter on one end and a 45° bevel (for scarf) on the other end. I then started working my way around the bay window with the cornice. All of these pieces are nailed and glued to the ceiling with Loctite PL Premium.
I remasked the room, with the tape flush against the shoe moulding. I don't really need the masking for paint, but I'm using shellac-based primer and hence want to protect the floor since I can't just wipe shellac off with a wet rag.
I decided I want crown moulding. I bought what I need from Lowe's. I'm not going to fly it with LEDs; it'd be more work than I'd like and I'm just not thrilled with the idea in this room. Dedicated theater room, sure. Bedroom that will be used as an office, no.
I cut some short pieces from each of the three types of MDF I'll be using to make the crown moulding, and mocked up a small model. I tacked this model above the room door with a sngle 18 gauge nail. At the moment it feels like it's too big, but for a 3-piece crown, I don't have easy-to-attain smaller options. The main piece is 3.625" wide, and I've got what I consider a minimal reveal on the wall piece and a symmetric reveal on the ceiling cornice piece, which works out to 7/8". It might look like it's too big by virtue of it being very short and hence proportionally odd. The total projection is 3.375" and the total drop is 4.4375". The total diagonal is a little more than half an inch less than the height of the baseboard, so I'm still within basic rules of proportion. I'm going to run with it for now, so I created a gauge block for the drop and projection so I can mark the walls all the way around the room.
I continue to debate whether or not I want to install crown moulding, and whether or not to install it flying so I can install variable white LED lighting. Since this room will be used as an office, the indirect lighting would be very nice to have.
I had to repatch an area to the left of the closet door due to being too aggressive when scraping joint compound off of the door casing. That spot will probably get a thin coat of B-I-N after I sand it, just because B-I-N works well for sealing and reinforcing thin wall patches.
I cut and nailed the baseboard in the closet. Seven pieces, two straight cuts and twelve miters (none of which were 45 degrees since the walls aren't quite square in the closet). I also nailed the plinth blocks in place. I then cut and installed the shoe moulding. I'm done nailing all of the trim inside the room and closet.
I spackled the nail holes and gaps of the trim inside the closet. I then started the first round of sanding in the closet.
I cut and installed all of the shoe moulding in the room.
I put two coats of primer on the new attic access door/box, sanding after each coat. I then put one coat of paint on it.
I created a new attic access door/box out of 1/2" plywood. It's an open box so that I can put insulation inside it on the attic side. I cut the pieces on the table saw and sliding compound miter saw, then glued and screwed it together. Tomorrow I'll start putting a finish on it. Eventually I'm going to properly brace the attic opening so I can add an additional weatherstrip and install some fiberglass batts around the attic access door so I'm not always losing blown-in insulation when I enter the attic.
I cut and installed some thin pieces of aluminum flashing between the jamb liners and window jambs to serve as pprimer/paint edgers when I prime and paint the window jambs. Taping them just wasn't working as desired, and I don't trust myself to get a perfect paint edge with a brush here since I want to get right to the edge where the jamb meets the liner but not bond the paint or primer to the jamb liner.
I did some more spackling on the east window.
I prepared to paint the trim around the attic access door and the closet ceiling. But the closet walls needed another coat of primer; the Kilz Original went on thin on part of the walls, probably due to not stirring it enough. I applied another coat.
I also applied another coat of primer on the room walls where I had done a lot of patching from removal of the chair rails and wallpaper.
I went to Lowe's for drill-operated paint stirrers (one for water-based products, one for shellac and oil-based products). I should have bought these years ago, they make stirring paint or primer that's been sitting for a while very easy without getting paint in the rim of the can. I also bought a paint can opener and a paint can lid/spout for when I open the cans of Sherwin-Williams paint for the walls of this room.
I used one of the new stirrers to stir the trim paint and then put the first coat on the ladder access door frame and the ladder protection panel frame. They'll both need a second coat. Normally I wouldn't separately paint the ladder access door frame, but I'm in and out of the attic at least a few times a year and the ceiling paint is flat. I wanted the satin finish of the trim paint because it's easier to clean scuffs from a higher-sheen paint.
I sprayed a coat of of Zinsser B-I-N on the ladder protection frame. It should be sealed well enough now to just use regular primer (I'm using Kilz Original). I also sprayed a thin coat on the closet door jambs. I also created a spray paint blocker out of aluminum flashing and sprayed part of the east window jamb. It works, but it's messy. I think I'll go back to brushing.
I applied a coat of Zinsser B-I-N to the east window jambs and casings.
I wiped down the closet ceiling and walls. I primed the walls with Kilz Original.
I sprayed what I hope is the final coat of satin white enamel on the hallway side of the room door.
I set up the table saw to cut the slots in 5/4" pine to cover the closet storage rails. I cut a 10.75" long piece and slotted it. It fits fine on the storage rail.
I removed all of the closet storage except for the rails. I'm going to leave the rails in place while priming and painting.
I cut and installed the door casings and rosettes in the closet.
I did some more spackling of nail holes, and the joints between the fluted casings and the rosettes inside the closet. Filling those joints is truly a pain in the butt. However, if done correctly it makes a big difference in the final result. Sometimes all that's needed is a couple of coats of primer, but sometimes I need to use spackling or joint compound.
I finally put the sealing coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the ceiling hole patch, some other wall patching, the frame of the attic access and the frame of the ladder protection panel. I also put a coat on the closet half of the closet door jambs.
I started taping the east window jamb liners so I can prime the stained wood jamb that hasn't been converted to white yet. But tape isn't really the right solution here. I need a new paint guide since I can't find my old one from many years ago. On the other hand, it would save time to just spray these spots but I'd need a larger paint guide. Lowe's has them.
I used joint compound to fill some of the gaps between the closet door casings and jambs. Every time I work on a doorway, I wish that trim carpentry hadn't become a hack profession. Several of the doors in the house were not hung properly centered on the walls, so one side of the jamb protrudes from the wall by 1/8" while the other is recessed by 1/8". With starter trim it gets covered up, but when upgrading to a thicker, more rigid trim, it becomes a pain to work around. I don't have time to rehang doors so I'm doing what I can to the trim to accomadate it and then filling the remaining 1/16" or so of gaps.
I took out the north wall closet storage and cut 5/16" from the length of the top and then trimmed it flush with the west vertical. I also cut 5/16" from each of the shelves and the support blocks. I tested the fitment again, it will now clear the door casings and rosettes I will be installing.
I cut the top of the east wall closet storage to clear the frame of the ladder protection panel's frame, then checked that it fits. It's good to go.
I measured for the closet door casings. The side casings need to be 74.125" long.
I spackled a deep divot on the back wall of the closet that I missed in my first round.
I'm hoping to finish the closet storage configuration today. That means getting it to the point where I know I can install it without dinging the new paint. I'm doing this now so I can fix any damage before priming and painting the walls.
I temporarily installed the old closet organizer supports and top on the north wall of the closet in order to get measurements for the width of new shelves. They need to be 12 7/16" wide. I cut 5 shelves for this space that was previously not utilized. I also cut more shelves for the narrow space on the east closet wall. There are now eight shelves there, good for shoe or knick knack storage.
I sanded the room side of the door, vacuumed it and wiped it with a damp rag.
I cut some melamine to use as supports for the new closet shelving configuration. I will use the new Spax MDF/hardwood screws to attach them.
I figured out that I need to take about 1/8" off of the length of the unit on the north wall to accomodate the door casings. Previously, it was extremely close to the builder-grade door casings. My new casings are a bit thicker, and 3/4" wider. I also need to trim the top to be flush with the west support vertical for the same reason, or notch it to avoid the door casing. I sgould probably move everything eastward by 1/4" or so, to avoid banging the door casings when I reinstall the closet storage. That's 1/4" to remove from the 5 shelves I cut today, and 1/4" from the top on the east side (which is notched).
I removed the narrow shelf section of the east wall and installed the supports on it. Just a couple of pieces of 3" wide melamine fastened with the Spax MDF/hardwood screws. I also fixed the center shelf with 4 Spax MDF/hardwood screws. This just adds rigidity to this part of the closet storage. I put it on the wall again to test fitment and to prepare to notch the top of the storage for the ladder protector frame.
At 20:15 I put the first coat of paint on the room side of the room door. At 21:00 I applied the second coat. Sometime tomorrow I should be able to turn the door over to paint the hallway side.
I sanded the hole patch in the ceiling. I think it's ready for primer.
I started filling gouges on the door with Zinsser B-I-N. It will take several rounds to complete.
I need some more pieces of melamine to fix the closet storage. Whoever installed it the first time left a significant unusable area in the unit closest the door, presumable because they didn't have the correct tools (a trim carpenter or homeowner, not a finish carpenter). There is about 15" of space (horizontally) where they didn't install another vertical for shelves because the standard organizer unit depth would get in the way of the unit on the back wall. But another vertical could be installed, it just needs to be ripped narrower and then slotted with a 1/4" router bit for the French cleat. That's my plan, but since I wasn't able to find undamaged pre-drilled melamine shelf supports at Home Depot or Lowe's, I'll cut and drill a plain MDF board that can thensupport shelves.
I'm a little concerned about the French cleat's ability to hold the weight. This type of French cleat is normally only rated for about 100 pounds if it is screwed to 3 studs. I should probably add another one.
I modified the storage on the back wall so it won't be completely in the way of the attic door. It still intrudes a bit, but it's workable. I took 2.25" off of its depth, so it's now 11.75" deep. I cut this off the back of the top shelf, middle shelf and the three vertical supports. I then routed new slots in the back of the supports with the new spiral upcut router bit, to capture the French cleat on the wall. I also shortened one of the clothing rods since I need the rightmost support to be further away from the right wall to clear my ladder protection panel's frame. It all works fine, so I cut a few more shelves for the narrow section. The narrow spot is probably only useful for shoes, but since this room will be used as an office, it could also be used for printer paper, etc..
I did one round of filling and sanding on the room side of the room door. I'll put another coat of B-I-N on it tonight.
Going back to the closet storage, I slotted a 11.75" wide melamine board I had on hand for the french cleat on the side wall. This will be a third support for the space that was not utilized by the previous configuration. Since it's shallower than the other supports, I'll need to drill new shelf holes in one of the existing vertical supports to support the front of shelves. I also need to drill new holes along the back of this support since the existing ones are a bit further from the edge than I'd like for shallower shelves (I don't want them to be easy to tip). I also need to drill 2 rows of holes in the new board since it's a blank slate.
I drilled 37 holes along the back edge of the existing center support for the new setup, 2.125" from the back edge. I then drilled 37 holes that are 10.75" from the back edge, so they'll fall 1" from the front of the new shelves. I did this with the Kreg 5mm shelf pin jig since the existing shelf pin holes are 5mm. I then drilled all of the holes in the new piece of melamine, which worked out to be 36 holes per edge since the board is about 1/2" shorter than the original verticals and hence there wasn't room for the 37th hole.
I brushed another coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the room side of the room door. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to sand this coat and be done with the patching and priming stage.
I removed the room door and took it to the basement. I started the filling/patching of the door. After several rounds of filling and sanding, I'm almost done patching up the hallway side of the door. I vacuumed it and wiped it down with a damp rag. I eventually got 2 coats of Zinsser B-I-N brushed on this side. It will need a light sanding before I paint this side, but now I need to patch and prime the room side. Kind of crazy that almost all of the doors in the house have lots of gouges on both sides. Almost as if the previous owners were housing a wild animal, but I'm sure it was just a rambunctious dog who figured out he could open the doors by clawing at the door handles.
I went to Lowe's and Home Depot for some supplies and tools. Since I'm using the basement for a lot of refinishing work, while also doing spackling and joint compound in the bedroom, I've been hauling my small Shop Vac (that can take fine filtration bags) from the 2nd floor to the basement and back many times per day. I finally got smart and bought a second one (same model, different color) so I can leave my old one in the basement. Like my existing one, I bought the 12' crush-resistant accessory hose since it's much more durable and flexible and I need the length so I can keep the vacuum exhaust far away from the joint compound and spackling dust when I'm vacuuming it up after sanding. I bought some velcro straps to manage the hose when the vacuum is not in use. Having the two vacuums will save me time and mojo. I also bought a 1/4" spiral upcut router bit so I can slot the MDF of the closet storage supports after I modify them. I also bought a Lutron Maestro dimmer set for the basement stairs, since I was never able to get the pairing of a Lutron Maestro occupancy switch and a plain old rocker switch to work correctly in a 3-way setup. I intend to move the occupancy switch to the closet of Bedroom 2, and set it for vacancy mode (manual on, automatic off).
Lowe's didn't have the radiused MDF boards I wanted for my storage modifications, despite their web site showing dozens in stock. I wound up buying just a couple of 4' long straight edged pieces at Home Depot. I bought a Kreg shelf pin drilling jig and some 5mm shelf pins.
At night, I made the mistake of trying to sand the joint compound I had applied in the morning. It looked and felt dry, but beneath the surface it had not cured. I should know better, joint compound always takes a day to dry. A glob of it came out. So I used a hair dryer to cure what remained, sanded and applied spackling compound in the quarter-sized spot where the joint compound had come out. Spackling compound dries faster, though not as hard. That's OK on the ceiling, especially since I'm going to prime this spot with Zinsser B-I-N. Hopefully tomorrow, since I'd really like to have the closet priming done so I can start the trim and then paint the closet so I can put the storage units back in it.
Speaking of the closet trim, I haven't decided whether or not I'm going to fabricate a top casing and cornice or just use casings and rosettes. I'm leaning toward the latter to save time and space. The storage unit adjacent the door could run into anything much wider than the casings I'm using.
I flipped the door over in the basement, cleaned it with denatured alcohol and sprayed a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on it. It will need some filling and sanding cycles before I can paint it.
I started some of the nail hole and joint filling on the window trim.
I temporarily remounted the room door on the new hinges so I can cut and nail the new door stop moulding and to make sure the door easily clears the new flooring. I cut and installed new oak door stop moulding. Tomorrow I'll remove the door again for patching and refinshing. It has multiple holes in it (former owners liked to lock children in rooms?), and severe dog claw gouges around the door knob. I'll fill, sand, prime, sand and paint the door. It should look like new when I'm done, but painted instead of stained.
None of the drywall edges around the closet door were fastened with screws or nails. If I tapped on it, it rattled against the door framing. I screwed it down on both sides with drywall screws. While the trim nails will help hold the drywall to the framing, it's just not a good thing to not have the drywall fastened here.
I measured for the closet door side casings and cut and installed them. I am not installing the plinth blocks yet since I want the floor to remain taped until I'm done with most of the joint compound work. I cut the pieces for the top casing and cornice pieces on the miter saw and table saw.
I temporarily installed the new hinges for the room door, then measured, cut and installed the interior door side casings. I then measured for the top casing and cornice pieces and cut them on the miter saw and table saw.
I glued, clamped and pin nailed the top casing and cornice pieces for the closet door. I then did the same for the pieces for the room door. I then sprayed a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on them.
I reinstalled the east window sashes along with the final piece of new jamb liner.
I applied the second round of spackling in the closet, including the patch in the ceiling. Hopefully this is the final round for the ceiling patch so I can get started on priming the closet soon.
I reinstalled the west window sashes and the last piece of new Andersen jamb liner.
I removed the east window sashes and replaced them with foam insulation. I sanded and vacuumed them, then wiped with denatured alcohol. I then primed both of them with Zinsser B-I-N, and sprayed two coats of paint on them.
I put the first coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the plinth blocks for the interior of the room. This is just for the purpose of sanding and reducing the end grain roughness.
I discovered that a large drinking straw is a good tool for applying spackling to the nail holes in the fluted casings. This will speed up my spackling and sanding of the window and door casings.
I think I'm going to try reusing some of the previous MDF storage. the main problem with the old storage was the depth on the far wall unit causing problems getting into the attic. I can rip the MDF down to about 11.5" and still be able to hang clothes. I need a 1/4" up spiral slotting bit for the router so I can cut the slots for the french cleat. And the Kreg shelf pin jig so I can make new shelf pin holes if needed.
I put builder's paper on the closet floor in preparation for drywall patching on the ceiling and walls.
I applied the first round of joint compound in the closet and on some of the north window. I later sanded some of the north window.
I sanded, primed and painted the lower sash of the west window.
I'm still trying to figure out what to do about storage in the closet. The old layout wasn't workable since it obstructed access to the attic and didn't maximize use of the space. The storage next to the door was mostly OK depth-wise but poorly laid out.
I installed the UHMW panel in the closet. It will rarely be used, but it's nice to have the wall protected from ladders.
I carefully measured and then cut a hole in the ceiling with a 4.125" hole saw and installed a rework ceiling electrical box. I moved the wiring from the existing box to this box.
I removed the old ceiling box. I then screwed some short pieces of 2x4 to the ceiling joist to support a patch for the hole left by the old ceiling box. I screwed the cutout from the new hole to the 2x4s to fill most of the hole from the old ceiling box. I applied the first coat of spackling just to fill the gaps around the patch, which will allow me to apply Fireblock expanding foam on the attic side tomorrow. I need to put builder's paper on the floor in the closet before I do more drywall patching work.
It will be nice to have a nearly flush light in the closet that doesn't get in the way when accessing the attic. Not to mention 2000 lumens of 4000K light using only 23 watts.
I shaved the width of four plinth blocks on the table saw to get a workable reveal inside the room without having to do a lot of patching of the door jambs.
I'm now working in the closet. I worked up a plan fir the UHMW panel to protect the wall from ladder dings when climbing into the attic. I created a frame for it from 3/4" thick oak, ripped to 2.25" width. I cut a 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep rabbet in the back to hold the UHMW. The UHMW won't be attached, it'll just be held against the drywall by the frame. That will allow me to replace the UHMW if it gets too beat up, without having to create a new frame. Of course I hope to never need to replace it; current price is $41.59. It can of course be flipped over since it's the same on both sides.
I need to route the edges of the frame, then figure out if I can use biscuits to join it. At the moment I'm leaning toward using pocket hole screws.
I installed the applique in the center of the top casing of the center window. I primed two more appliques to install on the east and west windows, and installed them.
I installed the cove transition pieces on the east and west windows. So as of now, all of the window trim is installed. I need to fill the nail holes, sand, etc. But I now need to continue removing sashes and refinishing them, since removing the jamb liners scrapes on the stools a bit.
I masked the glass of the upper and lower sashes of the east and west windows in preparation for removing the sashes and refinishing them (sand, prime, spray with enamel).
I removed the door stop from the room door jambs. I'm going to do some first-pass patching of the door jambs before installing the new oak stops. Someone drilled a hole in one of the side jambs, and it's gouged near the catch from the previous owner's dog.
I am looking at the plinth blocks for the doors. I might need to shave a bit off of their width to attain a symmetric reveal. It partly depends on how much work I want to do on the jambs. The previous casings were the typical 2.25" builder-grade casings, and they were installed with almost no jamb reveal. Some of the nail holes are close to the inner edge of the jamb. I don't really want to spend time filling holes in the edge of the jambs, but I will need a little bit more jamb reveal from the casing in order to correctly install the plinth blocks. I didn't do this in Bedroom 3, and I regret it. Those jambs were more beat up, and I didn't feel like replacing them and cutting new hinge mortises. So there I had little reveal and put the plinth blocks flush with the casing on the inner edge. It looks OK but not great. The only reason it looks OK at all is that I spent a lot of time making the casing and plinth block joints disappear so it looks like they were cut from one piece of wood.
I was recently asked (again) how I got such perfect miters on my window trim returns. For example:
The answer is that I cheat. Those aren't miter cuts. Where possible, I create my trim stackups out of solid boards, and route the edges on my router table. That window trim is really just three routed pine boards stacked and nailed and glued:
Clearly the advantage to doing it this way is the lack of miter joints to open/close with humidity changes, house settling, etc. The disadvantages: it takes more time to get the trim on the wall, and pre-gluing means you wind up with a rigid piece that you can't flex to accomodate a less-than-flat wall. Even if you use MDF trim boards (which are a little bit more flexible), the glue joints add significant rigidity. Also, you can't avoid miter cuts for inside corners. And of course this doesn't work well for stained trim; no one wants to see the end grain, and with a highly detailed contour, good luck sanding out the router burns on the end grain without losing some of the sharpness of the contour.
I cut and installed the side casings on the east window.
I started fabricating the top casing and cornice. I've decided to not use the rosettes. I cut a bead in a flat piece of select pine for the top casing. I cut a cove in a flat piece of select pine as the lower part of the cornice. I used a classical but for the bottom ede of the top part of the cornice.
I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on all three of the new apron boards.
I installed the stool of the center window, using silicone caulk at the sill per Andersen's instructions (which the original installer did not do).
I installed the center window's apron and the cove transition. In the process of installing the apron, I realized I was out of 2.5" 15-gauge nails for my Senco SFN40 and running low on 2" 15-gauge nails. So I made a run to Home Depot for nails, and also picked up the satin nickel door hinges and a few pieces of 1x4 select pine..
I installed the center window's side casings. I measured and cut the frieze, but I'm still debating the design of the entablature so it's possible I won't use it. I was planning to use the same design as Bedroom 3, which doesn't really have a frieze; it's just a flat casing the height of the rosettes, with the cornice directly on top.
I put the second coat of paint on the room side of the closet door. Tomorrow I'll probably install the new hinges just so I can hang it briefly and cut/install the new door stop pieces so I can start patching and priming the door jambs.
I installed the west window stool and apron, then the east window stool and apron. I've yet to install the cove transitions on these aprons.
I masked a second window sash for sanding/priming/painting.
I measured for the center window apron. It needs to be 46 5/16" long. I then created all three apron boards out of oak with the table saw, miter saw and router table. I used a Rockler 1/4" beading bit and a 1/4" roundoff bit on the router table to create a bead on the bottom of the apron. The whole stool/apron stackup I'm doing is inspired by Greek Revival style. Bullnose stool on top of simple beaded apron, with a cove transition.
I sanded and primed the second window sash. I should be able to get paint on it before I go to bed, though it needs sanding in one area.
I went to Home Depot for more builder's paper, Zinsser B-I-N spray, some 1x4 poplar boards, adhesion promoting primer for plastics, stainless steel wood screws to replace the ones the original window installer broke in the jamb liners, .94" wide masking tape and some cheap microfiber towels. I forgot to get the door hinges I need, but I'm not in a big hurry for those since the doors will not be reinstalled for a while.
I sanded the rough spot on the second window sash and touched it up with primer, twice. It's still not perfect, but I can live with it. I'm not sure what caused the damage to this sash, since it was from the previous homeowners.
I sprayed two coats of satin white enamel on the second window sash.
I sanded the aprons in preparation for priming. Obviously I'll prime after installation, caulk and joint compound. But the first coat is to prevent tannin bleed, and for that I'll use Zinsser B-I-N.
Tomorrow I hope to put this sash back and start working on the window trim for this window, and also starting the sash refinishing on the second window. I also want to start the light fixture planning for the closet, which I think is going to require some drywall patching.
I patched the gouges and holes in the room side of the closet door. I then sanded and applied 2 coats of Zinsser B-I-N.
The humidity in the basement is around 75%. I turned on one of my dehumidifiers so that the next steps will be a little shorter.
I later sanded the room side of the closet door, then flipped it over and sprayed one coat of satin white Rust-Oleum 7791830 on the clkoset side. The basement humidity is still above 60%, since the dehumidifer tank filled up while I was weed wacking and mowing the lawn (a many hour job).
I need to go to Home Depot and Lowes for some supplies.
I lightly sanded, primed and painted the top of the middle window after masking the glass with masking tape and newspaper. Given where I am with this project, I'm probably going to have to put some plastic sheeting in the window. I'd like to allow the paint to dry for 48 hours before reinstalling the window. It's going to make this project very slow, but slow is the only way to do it right. I can't match the durability of a factory finish, but I'm using an oil based alkyd paint (Rust-Oleum 7791830) that has worked well in Bedroom 3 on the door and closet doors.
I started taking measurements for the west window apron and casings. The apron should be 38.25" long. I haven't really decided on the height, but 3" seems reasonable since the casings are 3" wide. If I use cove moulding from the apron to the stool, what is the reveal between the bullnose stool and the cove?
I made the final near-the-wall cut of the hardwood ends along the east bay window using the Dremel Ultra-Saw. The reviews were correct: the blades don't last very long. Granted, hickory is a hard wood. But I only made about 16' of cuts total and the blade is starting to burn wood. Thankfully I don't expect to use this tool very often. The tool itself is dandy, but the wood blades are crap. I went gently and never bound the blade in any way.
I cleared the room and vacuumed and wiped the floor in preparation for covering it with paper to protect it from all of the work to come.
I removed the hardware from the closet door and room door, then prepped the closet door for patching and priming in the basement. I lightly sanded both sides with 150 grit just to get a clean surface with a little mechanical grip. I put a coat of Zinsser BIN on the closet side of the door, which doesn't have any gouges. The front side has dog claw gouges that will need a little filling. I might be able to do that with just the Zinsser B-I-N since it sands beautifully. Every time I work with B-I-N, I marvel at how nice it is to use as a primer. Dries REALLY fast, seals well, and the second coat glides on and even self-levels to some extent.
I started putting builder's paper on the floor. I'll probably use a drop cloth too, but the paper is handy for full coverage and no tripping (great before painting a ceiling). It's also very inexpensive, and it breathes.
These final rows are going slowly because it's all pre-drilling and hand nailing since I'm now too close to the wall to use the floor nailer. I have one full board remaining, then the final partial row with a special cut for the threshold area. My knees are sore despite the new knee pads, and I need to open a new tube of Loctite PL Premium. Hence I'm calling it a day and will finish tomorrow morning.
The floor feels rock solid.
I installed 3 more rows of hickory in the room.
I went to Home Depot for a Dremel Ultra-Saw (US40). It was marked down to $99 today (from $129) and I had a Home Depot gift card. I'm using this to trim off some of the flooring edges on the bay window walls that wound up closer to the drywall than I'd like. I've already done one of them, using the flush-cut blade. The blade guard acts as a shoe when using the flush-cut blade. I kept it away from the wall a bit since I'm not actually flush cutting, but eyeballing the normal wood blade led me to conclude that I needed the flush cut blade since I only want a 1/2" gap. It's no Festool TS55, but it works. I suspect the blades don't last long, but for my needs right now, it works well. It does make a huge mess, and while there is a dust port attachment available, it looks to me like it would not be very effective (an afterthought, like many tools other than Festool). The dust port is on the opposite side of the housing from the blade, and it's very small. With the flush cut blade, it probably does almost nothing since the flush cut blade winds up on the outside of the blade guard. This isn't a tool for a flooring professional; they'd want a Festool TS55 or the like. And a dedicated jamb saw.
I did a little bit more work in the closet. Finishing the closet floor is the first thing on tomorrow's list.
For what it's worth, I just finished the 4th tube of Loctite PL Premium 3X. I assume I'll use 2 to 3 more tubes on this room. It's inexpensive in the grand scheme, but it means I'll need more once I start working on the hallway and Bedroom 1. One tube per 22 sq. ft., roughly. It'll be less for the 4" wide boards.
I wound up needing to notch around the closet door frame. Not a big deal, and it turned out nicely. To alleviate the headaches of backtracking in the closet, I fabricated some spline to reverse the direction of the layout in the closet for a few of the boards. I used a scrap piece of flooring that had an incomplete tongue, and cut the spline using my table saw and router table. I then installed the notched piece leading into the closet, along with one piece of flooring attached to the notched piece with the spline. I used 6D finish nails to install the piece that is too close to the closet wall to use the floor nailer, after pre-drilling with a 3/32" drill bit. I'll do the same for the remaining boards to reach the closet wall. The closet is now ready to be covered in concert with the rest of the room.
I'm still waiting for Menard's to confirm the readiness of the remaining hickory for the hallway and Bedroom 1, hence I didn't get kneepads today.
I cut off the bottom of the closet door jambs to accomodate the new flooring. I did this old-school style: double-sided Japanese-style pull saw, guided by a piece of scrap flooring tacked to the floor with my finish nailer. IMHO, this is a better way to cut off door jambs than using an oscillating multi-tool, unless you will run into nails. Check for nails first!
From measurements it looks like I might get lucky on the first door jamb, and will not need to notch the flooring there. It's VERY close from my measurements, so we'll see when I get there. It would be a bonus since I need to track backward several boards once I'm around the jamb, and it's always a little tricky to get this just right without face-nailing a bunch of rows. I could of course just install a sill piece, but I'd like to just flow right into the closet with no visual break.
My knees are starting to bug me from all the kneeling on hard surfaces. Since I have a lot more flooring to do in the house, I'll be picking up some knee pads from Menards tomorrow.
I went to Home Depot to get a pull bar, some 6D finish nails and some 3/32" drill bits. I'll need these in the closet as well as on the final rows of the room.
I cut and installed the first board. It's 2" wide on the face, and the full length of the space between two of the bay windows. Hence it is angled on each end. I then cut a long piece for the second row, which had to be cut for the HVAC duct. I used a brand new Bosch T101BF blade in my Bosch jigsaw, and it worked well.
I finished the first 4 rows of flooring. Like Bedroom 3, I am putting a thin bead of Loctite PL 3X in each tongue and groove joint. It makes the installation slow, but in combination with the Floor Muffler, it pretty much guarantees that the floor will never squeak. The floor ends up being a single slab.
Layout wise, my starter strip of hickoery needs to be cut to 2" of face width, and spaced 1/2" from the exterior wall. I haven't checked yet if that's enough space to utilize the ratchet strap tools, but I believe it's sufficient.
I cut and glued some oak supports on the side and back panel of the new enclosure just to provide more glue/screw area for the bottom. On the buttom panel, I glued a 1/2" thick piece of plywood near the front edge to provide more support for the front door hinges. The front panel will hinge downward so it stays out of my way when it's open. I'm using some door hinges I bought for something else but wound up not using.
I cut and glued together some pieces of 1/2" plywood to hold the commonly used router tools: the allen wrench for above-the-table height adjustments and the two wrenches for bit and collet changes. I'll glue this to one of the side panels.
I put a coat of polyurethane on some of the panels. This isn't for beauty, it's just to seal the plywood.
I cut 1/2" plywood pieces to create the router enclosure. I tested the fitment of the sides and the back, and drilled the holes to mount the sides to the table. The fitment of the rear piece is really tight, I need to shave it down a bit. I am not going to install this piece until later, after I buy and install a dust collection port. For the front, I need a piece of polycarbonate and some hinges since I need access to the router when changing bits or locking/unlocking the router height adjustment.
I'd like to replace the jamb liners with white ones since I'll be painting the jambs and sashes white. I shouldn't install the stools until after I've replaced the jamb liners. I will put the jamb liners on my wish list. I need upper and lower right, left and top jamb liners for all three windows. I really shouldn't do the window work for a couple of months when it's reliably warmer outside.
I removed the remaining (junk) blinds and also removed the faux pane dividers.
I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the top of the new window stools. After it dried (less than 30 minutes), I sanded the window stools and sprayed a coat of Kilz Original on the bottoms. After it dried, I put a coat on the tops.
I went to Lowe's and bought a Bosch PL1632 planer to fix the jambs of the windows, some of which are nowhere near flush with the drywall. I bought ten more cans of Rust-Oleum satin white spraypaint to refinish the doors and the window grills. I bought a can of Great Stuff window and door sealant, and another tube of Loctite PL Premium.
I bought four more of the Legrand NTL885TR-WCC6 electrical outlets with nightlight that I like. I bought casters, plywood and fasteners to make my router table mobile. I also bought a box of fifty 42-gallon contractor bags since I was running low.
I ordered a piece of UHMW for the wall in the closet. This will provide protection from the ladder, which scars up just about anything else when I'm using it to access the attic. The UHMW is white, 1/4" thick and 24" square. It won't be beautiful, but it will look better than scarred up wood and drywall and it's in a small closet; very few people will ever see it.
I removed the center window screen and then removed the window stool. I cut and routed the replacement. I had to make a second pass at the router table with the fence guiding the non-cut side of the stool (i.e. as an outboard fence). This is because my router table fence doesn't have offset capability.
I put my router table on a mobile base. 3/4" plywood bolted to the stand with 1/2"-13 grade 8 bolts and locknuts, and 4 fully locking 3" casters bolted to the plywood. I need to loosen and retighten the stand bolts since it's not quite square, and build sides and shelves, but at least I can now move it easily.
I mounted the Bosch 1617EVS router in my Rocker router table. Despite what Rockler had claimed, their router plate doesn't accomodate above-the-table height adjustment for the Bosch 1617EVS. I removed the router plate and drilled a hole in it on the drill press so I can use the Bosch 1617EVS above-the-table height adjustment.
I removed the west window stool. I finished cutting and routing the window stools for the east and west windows. The Freud 99-462 router bit works nicely with the new router turned down a bit from full speed. And I love that the new router has speed control ad well as the smarts to keep the bit at a constant speed under load.
Tomorrow I'll remove the center window stool and create its replacement. I'm probably going to take a break from working on the room to get some plywood and casters. I want to enclose my router table and make it mobile. I need a place to store the router tools and spare parts, as well as the bits. And lifting it is hard on my back. I will leave part of it open for easy access to the router, but I want a covered bottom area where I can put Systainers.
I removed the remaining carpet padding and staples in the room. I removed the carpet, padding, tack strips and staples from the closet.
I removed the remaining carpet from the room. I still have more padding to remove, and I have not removed the carpet from the closet.
I cut some oak to length for the left and right window stools, then cut the rabbet joint on the underside that rests on the window sill frame (metal). For the right side stool, I cut the notches to allow it to fit into place. I tested the fitment, it appears to be good. I haven't cut the stool to width yet since I haven't decided if I want a little more depth than the original stools and Freud doesn't publish detailed dimensions of the 99-462 router bit I am going to use for the edges. I cut the length of the stools 1/2" longer than originally planned just in case I need the length to account for the depth of the edge profile after routing.
My plan is to install all of the window stools on the same day in order to have fresh caulk from a single tube. My plan is to use DAP 3.0 Window, Door, Trim and Siding caulk.
I measured the length of the left and right window stools. They're just over 38.75" long. I want the new stools to be about 1.5" longer to accomodate the new casings, so I'll make them 40.5" long.
I sanded the additional joint repairs. I then cleared out the room and vacuumed in preparation for a sealing coat of Kilz Original primer on the walls.
I put a coat of Kilz Original primer on the walls to seal the drywall repairs. I'll need another coat before painting, but the room already looks much better than it did when I bought the house.
I removed one of the window stools. Sigh, it wasn't caulked. I will need to fix that issue when I install my own stools.
I removed all of the wall plates. I also removed the window aprons.
This room will likely get flat paint since I've had to do so much drywall repair, but I won't be painting for a while. Once the first coat of primer is on, I intend to start the hardwood floor installation.
Late at night I wound up doing more joint compound, namely around the windows, between the door and the nearest perpendicular wall, and the northwest wall joint that was taped and joined poorly when the house was built. I'll need to sand these areas tomorrow, and maybe finally get a coat of primer on the walls.
I installed a Legrand NTL885TR-WCC6 electrical outlet with nightlight between the closets (the spot least likely to be blocked by furniture). the nightlight has 4 selectable light levels as well as 'off', and also has an optional louvred lens. This will give Julie options for its use. I have it set at the highest level and am using the clear lens for now. I like these, I will probably buy more of them soon.
I removed one of the shelving units from the closet wall in order to gain access to the door casing inside the closet. I then removed the door casing inside the closet and the base moulding in the closet. After I dispose of all of the trim, I can start removing the carpeting. I might leave it in place for a bit while I try to patch up the walls and do the window trim.
I scraped glue residue from the wallpaper removal. However, there is so much damage to the drywall from removing the horrible job someone did with wood wallpaper border trim that I fear I can't really patch it up without a tremendous amount of labor. I'm looking at doing some sort of covering, but we'll see how I feel after a first pass with primer to seal the exposed torn drywall paper and a skim coat of joint compound. It's not looking promising at the moment.
I applied a coat of Zinsser B-I-N to the exposed drywall paper and gypsum. I used B-I-N here because it sands nicely and just about anything will stick to it. It's commonly used as a primer before plaster texturing, so I expect joint compound to stick to it. I will need to scrape and sand a bit before applying joint compound. I'm probably going to need a new 14" joint compound knife for the final feather if this repair effort works; my old one has seen better days.
I removed the casings from two of the three windows.
I removed the wallpaper from the remaining two walls.
I removed the mid-wall wood trim on the remaining two walls. God awful trim carpentry by someone. Only a small section was nailed, and not well (incorrect nails, they weren't long enough to penetrate the drywall). The remainder was glued to the wall with construction adhesive. All of the nails were 1.25" 18-gauge. The chair rail is 3/4" thick. The drywall is 1/2" on the interior walls. Do the damn arithmetic. Who hires these kinds of morons? I'm tempted to resheet the whole room, given the damage to the drywall from removing these pieces. Taping and mudding new drywall is probably less work than patching the damage.
I started migrating my office from Bedroom 2 to Bedroom 1. I'm hoping to finish the move tonight. This is a temporary move, I will eventually move into the den (after it gets a new porcelain tile floor). But I need Bedroom 2 to be empty so I can install the hardwood flooring and do all of the wall repair and replace all of the trim.
Late at night, I finished clearing cruft from my desk and removed all of the non-essential rackmounted gear from it (6U of audio equipment and the 1U power conditioners that supplied the audio gear and other stuff).
Unfortunately, some moron used construction adhesive to attach the chair rail pieces above and below the wallpaper strip. And it looks like this trim was done with scraps; there are way too many scarf joints (most poorly done). Even one of the 12" long pieces has a scarf joint in the middle of it! Sigh, I hate hack carpenters/homeowners. This room is going to be a lot more work than others just due to the fact that this trim is glued to the wall. Even with a heat gun, the construction adhesive isn't letting go and of course too much heat trashes the latex paint on the wall. I'm going to need to repair the drywall after removing this awful trimwork.
I finally got around to fixing one of the heat ducts in this room. It was poorly placed relative to the hole in the subfloor, and the hole was actually a little too small for the duct by about 1/8" lengthwise. So the duct would fall into the cavity between the floor joists and hence not really heat or cool the room. I enlraged the hole a bit with my Bosch oscillating tool, then pulled the duct up to 1/8" below the top of the subfloor. I then put a few narrow crown staples through it into the subfloor edges to keep it in place. It should now stay in place. I reinstalled the el-cheapo register, but I'll be installing new ones when I put hardwood flooring in this room.
For the power, I'm drawing from the box for the Nest Protect outside of Bedroom 1. This was at the end of the chain, and hence the box isn't crowded. I'm using 14/3, so I can run the communication wire (red) despite the fact that the Nest Protect units use wireless communication and hence don't use the communication wire. I pulled the wire through the box outside of Bedroom 1 and fed it into the new box from the attic and cut and wirenut everything. I then set up the Nest Protect and DHCP to give it a fixed address. It's working fine.
The next Nest Protect will probably go in the basement, replacing the basic detector that is there now.
The MAC ID on the back of the UAP-AC-PRO reads 1619K802AA88026C7-m857w6. This means 80:2A:A8:80:26:C7. I configured DHCP to always give it the same address, and configured DNS.
I am running the controller on my hackintosh at the moment. Later I'll run it on one of my servers. I noticed a problem: the UAP-AC-PRO was always negotiating 100 Mbits/sec FD on the ethernet switch. This won't do for 802.11ac clients. So I decided to upgrade the firmware on the UAC-AP-PRO to 184.108.40.20646. This appears to have fixed the problem; I've reset the UAP-AC-PRO multiple times and it always negotiates 1000Mbits/sec FD.
I removed the hinges and knob from the door in preparation for patching and priming the room side of the door. I'm priming with Zinsser B-I-N to help prevent color bleed of the original stain. The second coat of primer might just be Kilz Original since it's cheaper.
The ball-detent latches will keep the supports in position when the sill is in the raised position while still allowing the supports to be released when I want to fold the sill down.
However, the latches get in the way of folding down the sill. I need to rethink this a bit. If I do similar work to another window sill, I'll want to extend the permanent part of the window sill further to accomodate mechanical latches. For this one I should probably consider magnetic catches.
I installed the step using Loctite PL Premium and just a few 18 gauge nails to hold it in place while the adhesive cures. Hopefully I will not need to screw it down like the threshold.
I installed the riser between the step and the threshold.
I had to cut about 1/2" from the support brackets for the fold-down window sill and run them through the roundoff bit on the router table again. I then primed the new cuts and put another coat of paint on the brackets.
Two of the tall bookshelves are now back in the room. They're ugly and not part of the long-term plan, but for now this is where they'll love. I also put the coffee table back in the room and sealed its slate pieces with 511 Impregnator.
I installed the door threshold with Loctite PL Premium and 3 screws. I installed plugs in the screw holes, but will need to trim them off and sand them flush later.
I put the short bookshelf in the room, and put the TV on top of it.
I wound up using a hole saw in the attic above the second floor to get access to the attic above the third bedroom. This wasn't easy; I had to balance on a roof truss 2x4 with my chest while using a 4.25" hole saw in my cordless drill.
I then created a 6' feed stick from some oak stock, and put holes in each end. From the attic to the side of the third bedroom (which is tiny), I put my fish tape through one of the holes in the feed stick and a wire coat hanger through the hole in the other end. I then fed my fish tape between the roof sheathing and the ceiling joist of the third bedroom using the feed stick. I was then able to snag the fish tape from above the second floor through the hole I had cut with the hole saw. I was then able to pull the cat5e and RG6 into the attic adjacent the third bedroom, which is the wall in which I need the wiring. Yay! Of course this took me most of the day jungle-gyming in attic space, but it means the hard work is done.
I installed the low voltage rework box in the wall for the coax and cat5e keystone connectors, pulled the cables through the box, terminated the cables with the connectors, inserted them into the 2-port keystone plate and installed the wall plate.
I reinstalled the side attic access panel in the wall of the third bedroom closet.
I connected the cat5e in the basement. I tested it with my network cable tester, it's working. I will connect the RG6 in the basement at a later date, after I have a better amplifier/splitter in my structured media box.
I still need to finish the work for the Ubiquiti WiFi access point, which isn't really part of the bedroom work.
I put the first coat of paint on the window apron. I am preparing to paint all of the trim, but I want to install the door threshold first. I'm looking at that now.
I need to run ethernet to the location where the TV will be located. I also need to relocate the coaxial cable. I'm not sure how the original coax was run. I glanced in the attic today, and that part of the attic isn't accessible from the attic above the second floor. Which leads me to believe that the original coaxial was run from below.
I pulled two cat5e cables and an RG6 from the basement to the attic above the 2nd floor. One of the cat5e is yellow for PoE to the new Ubiquiti WiFi access point that Julie gave me for my birthday. I'm hoping to be able to run the other one and the RG6 into the third bedroom for the TV. Given the lack of access, it's likely that I'll need to use the old phone wire as a pull cable. Since I have no need for phone wiring in this room (or anywhere else in the house), it should be OK. Assuming the holes for it are big enough to accomodate an RG6 and cat5e cable...
Jungle gyming in the attic was very difficult due to my injured thumb. I'm taking a break for now.
I ordered a Systainer 2 to hold my squaring clamps. I also ordered a Starrett 505P-7 miter saw protractor.
I installed the baseboard in the closet.
I installed the plinth blocks and the door casings on the inside of the door.I installed more of the baseboard and shoe moulding. I also installed the left plinth block and door casing on the closet. I need to decide how to handle the trim in the cramped corner at the right side of the closet, and I also need to install baseboard and shoe moulding inside the closet.
I finished the hickory flooring in the closet. It was very slow going since I can only effectively use one hand. But now I can remove tools from the room, clean the floor and finish installing baseboard, shoe moulding and door casing.
Since I need to go out to fill prescriptions, I will pick up a few things I need at Home Depot. I need a new coping saw and some new files for coping the baseboard, and a piece of sanded plywood to replace the half-ass drywall access panel in the closet.
This flooring work has been brutal on my knees and the balls of my feet. I almost couldn't walk this morning. That's what happens when you spend 16 hours squatting.
I removed the closet door supports from the subfloor, since they were just blocks of pine and are visible from outside the doors. Once I run the hardwood over these two spots, I'll just mount the pivot brackets on the hardwood after drilling a pilot hole. The screws that hold the pivot brackets go all the way into the subfloor.
I am using the Loctite PL to glue the edges of the hardwood floor boards together as part of the nailing process. This adds work to my flooring task, but will help prevent squeaks and also lock together any invisible damage to tongues. I installed 2 more rows tonight using this technique.
I used #000 steel wool on the riser that will go underneath the threshold, then sprayed a coat of Minwax satin polyurethane on it.
I cleaned up and assembled my straightedge so I can use it to lay the first row of hardwood flooring. I then installed a first row of boards after cutting their width for the expansion gap, face nailing and blind nailing with my finish nailer and 2" 6d finish nails. I then installed the second and third row by blind nailing with my finish nailer and sinking the nail heads with a nail set.
I started racking the flooring, then nailed two rows with my new Freeman floor nailer. So far, so good.
I'm debating whether or not to frame the floor heating registers. It's more work, but it would look nicer. I need to decide before I nail any more rows.
I installed the hickory pieces on the step. To avoid visible face nailing, I predrilled holes for 16d finish nails at an angle in the same location on the tongues that my flooring nailer would hit. I then hand nailed these nails most of the way, then drove them just below the surface with a nail set.
I cut the new riser to the correct height, then put a second coat of semigloss polyurethane on it. It will need steel wool after this coat, and then I'll spray on a final satin coat.
I am almost ready to install the oak part of the step.
I marked the location of the floor joists on the bottom of the wall, so I can hit them with cleats when installing the hardwood.
I cleaned up the subfloor and layed about 75 percent of the FloorMuffler underlayment.
I put the first coat of polyurethane on the riser that will be installed below the threshold.
I put some spackling on the holes over the step that were from the trim over the old step.
I went to Lowe's and bought new hinges for the door of bedroom 3. I also bought a new passage door lever set, a tube of clear caulk and 12 cans of satin white spray paint. I bought matching door lever sets for the remaining 2nd floor doors. One is a privacy lever set for Julie's bedroom.
I installed three of the four new lever sets, just so I don't lose track of them and don't have more clutter around. The last one is for the bedroom I'm working on, and won't be installed until after I refinish the door.
I used #000 steel wool on the oak step, then sprayed a coat of satin Minwax Fast-Drying poluyrethane on it. This should be the final coat, but I won't know until it's dry.
Having trimmed the closet doors to the correct size, I was able to start measuring and planning for the casings and header trim. This is just so I can create the header before I start flooring. I think I can do the same thing I did above the door to the room, but the trim will have to end early on the right side since the wall is in the way. I made marks on the wall, measured, then cut and routed the pieces I need from MDF. I then glued and pin-nailed it together, minus the applique. The end that needs to be short isn't cut off yet, and none of it has been sanded and primed yet.
I created the riser for the area below the door threshold. It's a piece of hickory running horizontally, with a 5.5" wide piece of oak edge-glued with #20 biscuits on each end to hide the end grain and keep the theme of mixing some oak with hickory. It still needs to be cut to the correct height, which I'll do on the table saw when the time comes.
I cut 1/8" off one side of one of the closet doors. I need to do the same on the other door, and probably do the same on the other edges. The doors are too wide for the closet doorway. They press hard against each other (wood to wood instead of just the springs), and the right one shaved away some drywall before I bought the house.
I put the final coat of semigloss polyurethane on the oak step. I'll rub it out and spray a coat of satin on it tomorrow.
I chiseled away about 3/4" width of the threshold subfloor, about 3/32" deep. It was not flush with the subfloor, and this was a problem for installing the hardwood flooring which I'll be running about 1/2" under the final threshold piece. I also lightly sanded the top of the thrshold subfloor, mostly to get a clean, flat surface. I'll be using a bit of Loctite PL 3X adhesive in addition to nails to attach the new threshold.
In the evening I used #000 steel wool on the threshold, then sprayed on a coat of satin polyurethane (Minwax fast-drying). I expect to apply at least one more coat. The first two coats of semi-gloss were mostly used as sanding sealer.
I cut the newly assembled threshold to fit the doorway. I tested the fitment. It fits but needs 1/8" shaved off on each end. I'll do that tomorrow. I also need to cut the rabbet in the edge and run a roundoff bit along the top lengthwise edges.
I need to buy more plinth blocks. EV742PBWHW from Lowe's.
I finished assembling the threshold.
I went to Lowe's and Home Depot. I bought a new Hitachi EC99S portable air compressor, since I need one for installing hardwood flooring. I had originally planned to use my main compressor in the garage, but it's a hassle to run back and forth to adjust the regulator and leaving the door to the garage open at this time of year is equivalent to putting a "Welcome, field mice!" sign on my door.
I also bought polyurethane, paint brushes for trim, shoe moulding and a set of lamps and LED bulbs for this room.
I sanded the patched nail holes of the door header.
I carefully removed the door casings on the hallway side of the door, then pulled all of the remaining nails. I also removed the crumbling drywall that was behind one of the stair risers. Not sure who the genius was that thought part of the door threshold could be supported by drywall! I replaced it with scrap 1/2" birch plywood I had on hand, fastened with 1-5/8" Torx head deck screws. I then cut the left and right door jambs at the height required for the new door threshold I'm creating, using my ryouba saw.
I slotted the new step to accept the tongue of the new hickory hardwood. The step is 1" thick, so I need a piece of 1/4" plywood to bring the hardwood level with the step. I cut this piece of plywood and stapled it in place. I then checked that my plan will work. I'm good to go here once I cut and install the hickory pieces.
I started working on the door threshold. I removed the old threshold as well as the fascia below it. Sigh, whoever did this work was a hack. I will of course make it right. I glued and pin nailed a hickory 1x6 to 1/2" plywood, and will use this as my threshold. It will be edged with a piece of 1x2 oak, and rabbetted to allow it to overlap the hardwood flooring. The new fascia will be oak, and will be properly centered (unlike the original one).
The reason this threshold is important: it's also a step. The floor of this room is about 12" above the floor of the hallway.
I removed the carpeting, tack strips, padding and stapes from the single step between the hallway and the threshold. I also removed the 2x2 piece of overhang that had been glued and screwed to the step. I scraped the glue (construction adhesive) off with a wood chisel. I will be installing an oak stair tread and hardwood to replace the carpet.
I cut the oak stair tread to replace the carpeted step. It was tricky but it's done. I also sanded out the planer marks. I need to put polyurethane on it.
Late tonight, I will try to finish assembling the threshold.
This isn't the typical process for creating door trim. I want to do as much of the finish work as I can before nailing it in place because I've already painted the walls. Doing it this way also allows for perfect returns. They're actually not returns at all; the beaded piece and both pieces of the cornice are slabs of MDF that I cut and routed. Hence the cornice is two pieces of MDF instead of six, and the beaded part is one piece of MDF instead of three. Creating this on the wall would be more difficult. Doing it on the bench allows me to glue and pin nail it precisely, and attaching it to the wall only involves driving finish nails through the entablature.
I primed the fold-down windowsill with Zinsser B-I-N. This will prevent tanins from leeching into the final finish.
I used Rock Hard Water Putty to level the seam between the hinged sill mount and the sill. Once it dries, I'll sand and prime this area.
I replaced all of the wall outlets with Decora style outlets. Two of them are Leviton T5632-BW with USB charging ports. One is a Legrand NTL885TRWCC6 with adjustable LED nightlight.
I bought the flooring at Menards. It's 3/4" x 3" solid hickory with a natural finish. It's 16034 from Great Lakes Wood Floors and is made in the U.S.A.
The cross head was created with MDF cut to 3.5" height, with an applique in the center and 3.5" rosettes on each end. There are two pieces of MDF on top of it, one routed with a cove bit and the other routed with a Rockler classical bit. The whole thing (minus the rosettes) was assembled on my bench before installation with glue and my pin nailer. This is easier than creating return pieces, since I was just routing rectangular pieces on 3 edges. I installed the cross head above the window.
I bought 3" wide fluted MDF case moulding and installed it on the sides of the windows. This wasn't my original plan, but the original moulding I bought just didn't look right with a cross head or the rosettes. I needed symmetrical casing, and the fluted MDF fits the bill. It's also inespensive and very easy to cut and install. I sealed the back and ends of it with Zinsser B-I-N before installation, just to help prevent moisture intrusion.
This bedroom has a short ceiling height, which makes the existing light fixture awkward. Someone more than 6' tall would be ducking to avoid it. I bought a 24" square LED light panel to replace it. It's not pretty, but I believe I can put a routed wood frame around it to make it look nicer. I installed it as-is. This room won't normally be lit from overhead since it's intended as a reading room, so it was more important to have a low-profile fixture.
I bought some concrete sealer and polymeric sand today to finish the patio blocks under the kitchen window. I couldn't use it today because it rained. I have soil and grass seed to repair the edge area, but I don't want to use it until I've sealed the blocks and applied the polymeric sand.
I also bought 5 bags of paver base. I need many more, along with levelling sand, but the truck bed was already full of weight. I also need paver edging strips and some topsoil.
I also bought a new tamper, pick axe and square shovel.
I started breaking up the soil near the big rock at the fork in the driveway so I can plant grass there. I'm going to surround the big rock with some retaining wall blocks or edging bricks and fill in with mulch.
I removed the original window sill extension. It was not as long or deep as I'd like, and was also not installed very well. But to use a deeper one, I can't use nails as were used for the original. I ordered a Porter-Cable 557 biscuit jointer so I can use glue and biscuits to attach one I'll make from oak. It will probably be about 1" deeper and about 1" wider. This will accomodate the slightly wider window casing I would like to use.
I primed most of the walls with Kilz Original. I have about half of one wall remaining. I used a full gallon. The objective here was just to seal and cover the blue paint that was on the walls so it doesn't bleed through to my new color. Primer is much less expensive than the paint I intend to use, so if it saves me a coat of paint, it's a win. And being oil-based, the Kilz should seal up all of my patching very nicely.
I started sanding the spackling I did the other day.
The 16 gauge cleats for the floor nailer arrived, along with the Systainer for my 1/4 sheet sanders. So nice to finally have a case for them. My old Porter-Cable's cardboard box had crumbled apart, and the new Bosch's cardboard box was way too flimsy as a case.
I ordered a Freeman PFL618BR flooring nailer from Amazon. This is a 16-gauge nailer, hopefully it will work with 3/4" hickory without splitting the tongues. I'll be using 16-gauge Bostitch cleats to install the floor. I ordered 4000 cleats, which is more than I need for this room but they'll get used since I intend to install more hardwood flooring once this room is done.
I also ordered a Systainer 2 for my 1/4 sheet sanders since neither of them has a case. And a Systainer Midi II for my router bits; they don't all fit in the Systainer 1 I've been using. The Systainer 1 that I'm currently using for router bits will be reassigned to hold my Porter-Cable PIN138 pin nailer and nails. I printed the labels cards for the new Systainers and sprayed them with lacquer. I'll cut them out later.
I repaired the window trim that covers the window cranks, at least as best I could. One of them has a large chunk missing, but at least now it's back in place. The repair involved bending the beams from the crank to the window back into shape, and removing and replacing the trim pieces. I haven't renailed them into place because I'm probably going to sand and refinish them before putting them back.
I sharpened a 1.5" wood chisel and used it to scrape the paint and caulk ridges from where the edges of the baseboard, door casings and window casing met the sheetrock. I also pulled all of the nails out of the old baseboard and casings so I can burn it and so I don't wind up with a nail in a foot or hand.
I need to decide on the millwork for this room. I'm probably going to use plinth blocks and rosettes, mostly to avoid hassles with miter cuts in what's not a completely square room.
I will eventually apply a coat or two of Zinsser B-I-N to the subfloor to kill odors from the previous owners. But I won't be doing that until I'm done with the walls. I need to remove the baseboard and door casings, which are thrashed so I'll be buying new. Not to mention that whoever painted this room did a poor job; the door casings are slopped with paint, and the paint lines on the arched ceiling are far from straight and clean.
I ordered a restocking of Yankee Candle candles. I've depleted my supply, so I ordered some votives, tea lights, small jars, medium jars and large jars. They had some of the holiday scents marked down 75%, which was nice. It is likely that I'll store some of these candles in the half bathroom cabinet.
I drilled the hole for the cabinet knob on the drill press. I installed the temporary knob and then reinstalled the magnetic catch.
I installed the glass in the cabinet door using the 1/4" quarter-round I had created yesterday. I used 1" pin nails in the PIN138 pin nailer. What a nice tool; I should have bought one of these for glue-ups years ago.
I installed the door on the wall cabinet. I installed the remaining four screws for the hinges. There are now 4 screws holding each hinge to the door, and 3 screws holding each hinge to the cabinet. It is much stronger than necessary, but that means it should last a long time.
I went to Lowe's and picked up a piece of glass for the cabinet door, and a temporary chrome knob. I also picked up a glass cutter. There was only one option, an el-cheapo Kobalt.
I cut the glass for the cabinet door, and put a thin coat of paint on the back of the cabinet door. I also created some 1/4" quarter-round to pin the glass in place. I would have preferred poplar here for its ability to take nails without splitting, but I'm out of it. I used select pine. I put a coat of paint on the part that will be exposed, without primer.
I need a 23 gauge pin nailer to install this quarter-round. For the heck of it I tried using my 18-gauge nailer, but it split the quarter-round 25% of the time, and I don't have any 3/4" long nails for it and it looks like the local stores don't carry them. The Porter-Cable PIN138 would be a good choice and it's available at Home Depot.
Side note: I could not have installed the magnetic catch without the Bosch PS10. Well, a Bosch PS11 would have been better, but to drill the pilot holes in the back of the face frame, a right-angle drill or driver was my only option. I'm so glad I bought it many months ago; I knew I'd need it for cabinetry at some point.
I removed the catch from the cabinet door and removed the door from the cabinet. I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N primer on the cabinet door.
It's worth noting that I need a variable-speed router for my router table. It's a little risky running some of my bits at the high speed of my old Porter-Cable 690. It will be downright foolish to run a raised panel bit, which I will eventually need. I don't need a plunge base, and I'm leaning toward the Bosch 1617EVS.
I measured the depth of the cove cut for the Freud 99-286. It's around .65". When I measured after fitting a joint together, I came up with .625". The stiles I cut are a total of 4 9/16" wide. The opening in the cabinet is 14 1/16" wide, but the hinge consumes 1/16". Assuming a 1/16" gap on the opposite side, I get this as the length of the rails:
14" + 1+5/16" - (1/16" x 2) - (4 9/16") = 10 5/8"
I cut the rails and routed the stiles and rails for joinery and the glass panel. It looks good and it appears to fit the cabinet. I routed the bead in the top rail to match the mirror, then glued the door frame together and clamped it to dry.
It's worth noting that a rail coping sled is a blessing and a curse when using matched stile/rail router bits. The sled can't be used for the stiles, yet you have to adjust the height of your router bit for the sled when cutting the ends of the rails. When I don't use a sled, and I'm using matched router bits, I only have to adjust the height of the router once as long as the router bit is fully inserted. When I switch to the matching bit to cut the with-grain part of the rails and stiles, the height is already correct. But when using the sled, I have to adjust for each bit. What I've learned to do...
After cutting the copes in the end grain of the rails using the sled, I use my Wixey digital height/depth gauge to lower the router by the thickness of the coping sled before changing to the matching router bit to cut the with-grain parts of the rails and stiles. I haven't had to readjust the router height using this technique, but I still make a test cut in a piece of scrap just to be sure I don't need to change it.
The height of the bench is intended to match the height of my table saw so I can use it as part of an outfeed table.
I picked up some 12" x 24" pieces of marble at The Tile Shop to use as the top of the wall cabinet shelves. I'll need to cut them to size on the tile saw. I'm just going to lay them on top of the wood shelves; they're heavy and do not need to be glued down.
At any rate, I will use the shelves without tile for a while. And if I do this again, I'll use Loctite PL to adhere the tiles. And/or use plywood instead of oak boards for the increased dimensional stability. For now I've sanded the top of the boards and put two coats of paint on them.
I mixed some thinset and placed the tiles on the shelves. Once it cures (tomorrow), I will grout them.
I temporarily installed the new door lever hardware on the half bathroom door and hung it again. This allowed me to mark the wall for the new door stop. I then installed the new door stop.
I spot-sanded the inside of the cabinet again to remove some runs from the first round of paint. I then primed again where needed, and painted again.
I went to Lowe's to get another few cans of Rust-Oleum satin white spraypaint, some small stainless steel screws to hold the wall cabinet shelves secure to the shelf pins, and a pair of drywall dust bags for my 5-gallon Shop-Vac. I aslo went to Home Depot and picked up some Spax #8 x 1.25" screws since I was out of them. I bought both fully threaded and partially threaded.
I filled the old holes with Rock Hard Water Putty, sanded and primed. I'll need to repaint the inside of the cabinet after I drill the new holes.
I continued priming the shelves. I'm looking at covering them with marble, to make them look nicer and make them impervious to fluids. If I go this route, I will likely cut a cove on the front underside of the shelves before I paint them.
I lightly sanded the runs on the outside of the wall cabinet and then put a light coat of paint on those areas. Given that the sheen is satin, I'm hoping I don't need to do more work on the runs.
I did get some runs that I'll need to wetsand out and touch up. I need to wait a couple of days before doing it. In the maintime I will work on the shelves.
I also picked up a 3"x3"x36" piece of poplar and Kobalt foam kneeling pads. These are for a small project to make a router bit holder for one of my Systainers so I can keep them all in one place. The foam will go in the lid to help keep the carbide tips safe.
With 80 grit sandpaper on the 1/4 sheet palm sander, I sanded down the tops of the vertical fase pieces on the wall cabinet to bring them flush with the top of the box. They were about 1/32" too long. I also sanded the pocket hole plugs again, and lightly sanded the large parts of the rest of the cabinet.
I drilled countersink holes in the French cleat on the back panel of the wall cabinet, then installed 8 3/4" long Spax wood screws. The cleat should be more than strong enough to hold the cabinet.
I started priming the cabinet with Zinsser B-I-N. I need to do this to prevent the tanins in the oak from staining the paint. Using the spray is much worse than brushing, the nozzle is awful (leaks and spits). Lesson learned: always buy Zinsser B-I-N in non-aerosol form and if I want to spray it, just thin it and use my detail sprayer.
At any rate, I wanted to do the priming of the inside of the cabinet before I install the back panel, just because it's easier to get to the back of the front verticals. I later put a second coat on with a brush.
I attached the top pieces of the wall cabinet. There are 7 clamps holding the topmost piece in place while the Titebond III glue cures. The lower top piece is glued with Loctite PL and screwed to the box. Tomorrow I'll fill the nail holes in the beaded front pieces and the screw holes in the bottom decorative piece.
The chrome plated brass concave door stop I ordered should arrive tomorrow. It is a commercial type, but I could not find anything else that I would trust to be mounted on tile or be mounted on the door and hit the tile or marble baseboard. The typical residential ones have too little surface area. The good news is that it looks like it's a nice piece, but we'll see once it arrives.
I drilled all of the pocket holes to hold the vertical face pieces to the frame. I then attached these pieces using the pocket holes and wood glue and a couple of brad nails. I installed the wood plugs in the pocket holes. Sfter the glue cured, I trimmed them off with a coarse pad on my die grinder and the random orbital sander.
I cut and routed the bottom decorative piece of the wall cabinet. I used a Rockler classical bit to route the edge.
I cut the two top pieces of the wall cabinet that will be sandwiched together. Using a 1/2" radius cove bit, I routed the lower top piece of the cabinet. I then routed the topmost piece with a classical bit.
I cut the back panel on the table saw from baltic birch plywood, then cut the half of the French cleat that will attach to it. I then glued the French cleat piece to the back of the back panel. I am out of 3/4" long wood screws, I'll need to pick some up tomorrow to finish attaching this piece.
I also bought a Rockler router table. The least expensive Rockler table with stand and fence (as a package). High pressure laminate top and fence guards instead of phenolic or cast iron. I got their 'A' router plate, and my Porter-Cable 690 is now mounted in it. It took me about an hour to put the table together.
I also bought a Jet parallel clamp kit. Something I've needed for glue-ups for a while, since it includes parallel clamp blocks. And the Black Friday price was 50% off.
I also bought the least expensive Freud 8" dado kit. I've needed this for a long time; it would have prevented me from ruining some stock with my router over the years when cutting dados. Including last week. :-( To help me stop botching dados, I also bought a Wixey depth gauge, which was very inexpensive but will be incredibly handy on the table saw and router table.
I also bought some hinges for the wall cabinet door. It's possible that they are too lightweight, we'll see. They were cheap so it's no great loss if I can't use them here.
After assembling the router table, I glued up the main box part of the wall cabinet and used the Kreg pocket hole screws in locations that will not be visible once the cabinet is complete.
I marked the right side piece for the holes for shelf pins, then drilled the holes with the drill press.
I drilled the pocket holes in the top and bottom frame pieces.
I need to go to Rockler to pick up some better quality plywood for the back panel, along with a beading router bit.
I bought a drill press today. I've needed one for decades, but kept hemming and hawing on how large it needed to be (throat depth) and of course how slow the spindle speed can be set. In the long run I'll wind up with another one for metal, but that's OK. Switching between wood and metal on the same press is a hassle anyway since cutting oil used for metal will stain wood, necessetating fastidious cleanup before drilling wood, even if you're using a table and fence setup on top of the drill press' stock table. The press I bought is the Porter-Cable PCB660DP. For a 15" floorstanding drill press, it was inexpensive. And it gets good reviews. I'll only be using it for wood, so the 300 RPM minimum spindle speed isn't a showstopper. While I know the chuck isn't high quality, the Jacobs chuck with a Morse taper adapter means it's not hard to swap in U.S.-made components if desired. My current needs (for the half bath wall cabinet) are fairly tame, but we'll see what the runout looks like once I put the press together. I haven't even gotten it out of my car yet.
I continue to work on the design of the wall cabinet in SketchUp. I made some tweaks to allow me to use the same type of French cleat as the mirror. I'm now debating if I should use oak fluted casing for the vertical face pieces, to match the mirror.
I removed the mirror, took some measurements, and created the edge banding to hide the French cleat. These pieces are 1/2" thick poplar. I ripped the pieces with the table saw and cut them to length on the miter saw. I notched them to fit around the cleat on the back of the mirror with the table saw. I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on them, sanded with 400 grit sandpaper, then put two thin coats of Zinsser mold and mildew resistant white paint on them. When they're dry, I'll glue and clamp them on the mirror's back. Seems like a minor detail, but... missed details tend to accumulate and make a room look like it was assembled by a hack instead of a craftsman. I might not be a true craftsman on these things, but I try. And without this banding, the mirror would be able to easily move toward the wall at the bottom when pressed with a finger.
I'm nearly done with a wall cabinet design in SketchUp. I can't call it done because I'm still deciding whether or not to put doors on it (with glass windows) or to just make a cubby. Obviously a cubby is easier, but the main reasons I'm considering it:
Of course, given that I'm using oak, adding marble might make the whole thing very heavy.
In the meantime I marked the wall and the other half of the cleat in preparation to mount the mirror.
It's a bonus that it's a combined smoke and carbon monoxide detector. As I install Nest Protect devices to replace my smoke alarms, I can remove the ugly CO detectors from my walls and patch the holes.
I am aware that new construction in Michigan requires smoke alarms in every sleeping room. However, I have no wiring for smoke alarms in these rooms, and I've never closed a bedroom door for sleeping. Not to mention that I'd have to spend an additional $400 plus tax to put one in every bedroom, and in the master bedroom there isn't a good spot since the double door to the master bathroom is close to the master bedroom entry door.
The 2009 Michigan Residential Code also requires smoke alarms to be interconnected and to receive primary power from building wiring. Right now, I don't have that option in the kitchen noe outside Bedroom 2. It's not too difficult to provide it for Bedroom 2 since there is attic above. And a strict reading of the code says I have to make this change if I ever sell the house. But in the kitchen, I don't have good options until a remodel involving removal of the drywall.
I am hoping to be able to caulk the joint between the wall tile and walls tonight.
Using my finish nailer, I finished nailing the left and right side door casings with 15 gauge nails. It doesn't really need caulk at the drywall, though I bought some DAP Alex Flex in white if I decide to caulk there.
The door side casings are partially installed. All of the 18 gauge brads are fired into the side jambs. I used Loctite PL at the bottom of the door casing to adhere it to the cement board. I don't want to try firing nails into the cement board. The trim is all clamped in place while the adhesive cures. It expands as it cures, so it was important to clamp it. Once it's dry, I'll finish nailing it, with 16 gauge nails from my trim nailer going through the drywall into the door frame.
I had a problem with the top door casing. One of the brad nails hit a hard spot and bent when I fired it, causing it to exit the head jamb. :-( Of course it was the last nail I was going to place. I had to scrap the head casing and cut a new one, and I'll need to patch the head jamb since I wasn't able to remove the nail and had to cut it with a cutting wheel on my Dremel. That's one of the drawbacks of 18 gauge nails; they sometimes break when trying to remove them.
I cut a new piece of head casing, tested its fitment, sanded it, then put a coat of stain on it. Tomorrow I'll put the first coat of polyurethane on it.
I put the third coat of paint (with some Floetrol mixed in) on the edges of the walls and ceiling with a sash brush, then rolled the second coat of paint on the walls and ceiling.
Once the paint had dried, I reinstalled the light fixture and the wall plates. I can install the door casing pieces tomorrow. I'll likely wait one additional day before caulking the top of the tile and the door casings, since I'll probably use tape and I don't want to lift any of the new paint.
I put a bit of joint compound on the drywall where some paint and paper came up when removing the door casing trim.
After the joint compound dried, I sanded all of the remaining spots I had patched. I then applied a thin coat of Zinsser B-I-N white shellac primer to these areas, plus the area around the ceiling fan that had a slight stain. All of my patching looks good.
I started painting the corners of the ceiling and the walls. I've brushed two coats of paint on all of the edges. I'll do it again after I roll the first coat of paint on the walls, then roll a second coat on the walls. I need to pick up some new Wooster Shortcut sash brushes at Home Depot.
I caulked the sink at the wall with Latisil Silver Shadow caulk.
I taped off the floor around the sink and toilet in preparation for caulk. I'll be using Latisil here. Mostly because I can trust it to be waterproof and to last a long time.
I had to renew my car registrations today and it took longer than expected. Sigh.
I picked up a Bostitch BTFP12233 18-gauge pneumatic brad nailer at Lowe's. I need this to nail the door casing moulding to the edge of the door casing. I will use my 16-gauge finish nailer to hit the header and framing, but from past experience I know that the 16-gauge nailer is risky near the edges of oak. I need to avoid any cracking or splitting. I bought 1.25" and 2" long Bostitch brad nails for the nailer.
I bought a couple of oak rosettes which I may or many not use for the top of the door casing moulding. Ditto for some small plinth blocks I bought. The plinth blocks are not oak, and hence I expect I won't be able to get the color to match with stain. In fact I'm guessing there's no way to stain these nicely.
I put what I believe to be the final coat of spackling compound on the wall. This was just to fill a small divet from one of the old light fixtures. Tomorrow I should be able to sand that area and put some primer on it to hold it until I'm ready to paint (soon). I'll probably use Zinsser B-I-N here just in case I need to lightly sand.
I cut the oak door casing pieces.
I used solid bullnose supply lines for the faucet. They're visible if you're on the toilet, so I didn't want ugly flex lines.
I finalized the position of the light fixture and temporarily installed it. I'm glad I did this before painting. What I couldn't see with my work light became readily apparent: I need to do more spackling of the hole I patched from one of the old light fixtures.
I finalized the position of the sink. It boiled down to what was possible with the waste pipe. Given the shape and thickness of the sink pedestal, it needs to be nearly centered in front of the waste pipe in the wall.
With the sink positioned, I marked the location of the two holes needed on the wall and the two holes for the floor for the pedestal. I then drilled through the tile and cement board in the wall with a 1/2" diamond coring bit. I used the same bit to drill through the marble and cement board on the floor. I then drilled 3/16" pilot holes in the wood supports behind the wall and the wood under the cement board on the floor. I mounted the sink using 5/16" x 2.5" stainless steel lag bolts with rubber-backed stainless steel washers. It is very solid while having some cushioning to prevent cracking the ceramic.
I taped off the sink and wall so I can caulk the sink to wall joint with Latisil silicone caulk. I haven't done the caulking yet since I want to be sure that I can get the waste pipe positioned, and I'll probably remove the sink from the wall to install the valves and faucet.
I need a box flange for the P-trap. It came with a shallow flange that won't work for my application.
I caulked the remaining vertical tile joints (wall-to-wall joints).
I installed the toilet and filled it and flushed it once. No leaks found, but I'll check it again tomorrow before caulking.
I caulked two of the vertical tile plane changes. I taped the last one, so I have two remaining to caulk plus the ones at the door casings. and should be able to caulk both of the remaining tile plane changes tomorrow. Once that cures, I can finish the wall spackling and sanding and paint the walls. I still need to cut, finish and install the door casings.
I ordered some epoxy grout haze remover from Amazon. I also ordered another Festool SYS 1 Systainer, since the Bosch GLL 2-45 didn't come with a case that will hold the laser cross-hair with its accessories and it's a sensitive tool that needs a good case. I believe I can also put my Husky digital torpedo level in the same SYS 1.
I also ordered a Storacell AA 4-cell battery holder so I can keep the batteries out of the tool. While I will have several uses for the laser cross-hair in the not-too-distant future, it will spend most of its time in the case and I don't want it to be destroyed by leaking batteries.
I caulked the floor to wall joints with Latisil. As far as silicone caulk is concerned, I really like the Latisil. It's easy to work with, and tooling it with my finger (wetted with denatured alcohol as needed) was effortless. I also caulked the lower 4" of the wall joints, i.e. the parts where the marble baseboard pieces meet. I will likely caulk all of the wall to wall joints with the Latasil, but I'm going to wait for the Laticrete sanded caulk to arrive before making a final decision. The sanded caulk would look nicer, and this is a half bathroom; I don't really need 100% silicone on the walls. But I wanted it on the floor and the baseboard marble since those joints will get wet when I mop or sponge the floor. Which will probably be fairly frequent to help prevent scratching of the marble floor.
I cleaned some of the remaining epoxy haze from the tile with acetone. I was so tired when I did the grouting of the baseboard marble that I did a poor job cleaning it. The acetone works, but it still requires a tremendous amount of elbow grease. I need some good scouring pads for the final cleaning. I ordered some from McMaster-Carr: part numbers 6377T6, 6377T12 and 6377T14.
I started taping the joints for caulk.
I ordered one more SpectraLOCK MINI kit for the walls, in case I need to do any touch-ups. I also ordered Laticrete sanded caulk in Silver Shadow color. I still intend to use Latisil silicone caulk at the floor and the vertical wall joints, but I may use the sanded caulk at the top of the bullnose. For one, it looks better. Secondly, it's acrylic and can hence be painted. Obviously it doesn't have the durability nor water resistance of the silicone. But these joints would be easy to recaulk.
I grouted the final wall and the baseboard marble. I should have sealed the edges of the marble pieces; there's a fairly dramatic picture framing effect. Which goes to show that it's a good thing I sealed the edges of the floor tile. I don't really mind the picture framing effect on the baseboard pieces, and I'm sure it will dissipate a little bit over the course of a couple of weeks. It actually helps bring a little more gray into the creamier marble pieces, and also makes it more obvious that the baseboard pieces are solid natural stone.
Tomorrow I can likely remove the protective paper from the floor and caulk the floor to wall joints and the vertical wall to wall joints. Or at least prepare to caulk them.
As far as coverage is concerned, the 4-pack of MINI sets that I bought may not be enough. It will be close. I'm hoping I don't have to order another MINI set, since it'll hold me up. I really want to be done with the really messy work before the weekend is over, so I can start cleaning up and prepare to install the toilet.
At the moment, the back wall and right wall are grouted.
I made a final pass at cleaning the joints and tiles to prepare for grouting. I also taped the plumbing with painters tape (3M blue) in case I get grout on them. SpectraLOCK sticks to everything, and I don't want to need to clean SpectraLOCK off of the plumbing when I'm ready to fit the valves.
Theoretically, I should be able to grout the walls this weekend. I might be able to caulk the floor to wall joints on Sunday evening, but I'll probably wait until I'm ready to install the toilet and sink since I don't want to waste any of the Latisil caulk since it's $16 per tube.
I need to set aside some time to cut and finish the oak door casings.
The Silver Shadow SpectraLOCK grout arrived a day early. I'll be using this on the walls. The Silver Shadow Latisil caulk arrived in the same shipment. It is 100% silicone. I'm not excited about the look of silicone caulk, but it can't be beat for durability and water resistance.
Twelve of the marble skirt pieces are now cut. I wish I had completely levelled the floor with levelling compound and removed the marble tiles from their inconsistent backing, so I could make all the same cuts. Not a huge issue, but it's more work than it would have been had I used levelling compound on the floor.
I removed the ledger board from the 4th wall.
I cut two of the three remaining pieces of bullnose. Tomorrow I'll cut the remaining wall tiles and baseboard marble, and install the remaining wall tile and bullnose. I can then pull out the protective paper on the floor and lay down the tarp and some tape to protect the floor for the baseboard installation and wall grout.
I removed the ledger board from the left wall since I don't need it anymore. I did most of the cleaning of the grout joints on the left wall.
I reinstalled one side of the old door casing temporarily, then set the wall tile for the final wall except for the very small part between the door and the left wall which I may do tomorrow. I left about a 1/8" gap between the edge of the tiles and the door casing, which will be caulked after the new door casing is installed.
I installed the bullnose tile as the top row on the back wall, and 2 pieces on each of the side walls.
The grout for the walls will be here on Wednesday. I think I can finish laying the tile before it arrives.
I ordered a 4-pack of Silver Shadow SpectraLOCK MINI grout sets from Tile Store Online. Hopefully this will be enough to do the walls of the half bathroom. I also ordered two tubes of matching caulk. There was a lot of hemming and hawing on my part about using epoxy on the walls. Mainly because my experience with SpectraLOCK from years ago led me to believe that sagging was a problem. If I believe what I've read recently, the newer PRO formulation is firmer. I can't say that was my experience on the floor, but I left out 10% of the sand on the floor due to the narrower joints. In hindsight I don't think that was necessary, and it led to less full joints that I might touch up.
I'm still debating which caulk color to use for the joint between the walls and floor.
I put 6 more rows of tiles on the left wall.
Tomorrow I should be able to pick up the bullnose tile at The Tile Shop. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to finish laying the tile some time next week. I believe the grout won't be here until next week, so that's fine. And I need to cut and finish the door casing before I can tile the last wall.
I cut and attached a ledger for the right side wall so I can start tiling there. I didn't use my clamps to hold this one, since I don't want to be tripping over the clamps. I used three screws. I will fill the screw holes with Redgard after I remove the ledger.
I hope to finish tiling the back wall and most of the right side wall today.
On Monday, I should receive some silicone foam rubber bulb seal (McMaster-Carr 9141K177) that I'm hoping to use to cushion the toilet from the floor to avoid scratching the marble during installation and seal the toilet to the floor. Of course I'll likely still caulk it, but the bulb seal will make installation easier. I'll probably use the same bulb seal to protect the floor when installing the sink pedestal.
I should also receive an EPDM foam rubber bulb seal (McMaster-Carr 93085K15) that I intend to use between the sink and its pedestal. The bumpers I tried to use don't work very well; the glazed ceramic is too slippery for their adhesive.
There are 7 rows of tile on the right side wall now.
I covered the new floor with 2 layers of paper protection, in preparation for tiling the walls.
I pinned a 1x3 oak board to the back wall using my long Irwin clamps. Its top edge is where I want the wall tile to start. It was levelled using the Bosch GLL 2-45 and double-checked with my digital level. This will allow me to start the base row of wall tiles with support to prevent movement from sagging. I don't really expect much sagging with the thinset I'm using, but it's best to prevent it.
I set 7 wall tiles, just to get a feel for the spacing. I'm happy with it, and can hence proceed with more tiles later this week. I'm going to change thinset though; the stuff I'm using just doesn't like the 1/4" x 1/4" trowel very much, and I don't want to use a larger notch trowel for 3"x6" tiles.
I picked up a Bosch GLL 2-45 self-levelling cross-line laser and Bosch BT 150 compact tripod at Home Depot. I need these for the installation of the wall tile, and obviously they'll come in handy for other purposes.
I measured and marked the center of each wall, then drew vertical lines on the walls for every other grout joint that will be present with the subway tiles. I did this using my digital level and a straightedge. These lines are just guides. I will be buying the Bosch GLL2 self-levelling cross-line laser level tomorrow which I'll use when laying the tile. My guide lines will be covered with thinset and hence the laser will be much more useful.
Very late at night and into early morning, I started sealing the marble floor tiles in preparation for grout. Yes, I've decided I'm going to go ahead with the SpectraLOCK, "picture framing" or not. I applied 511 Impregnator to the edges of the tiles, hoping it will prevent most of the picture framing. From what I've read, a single coat such as I've applied should not act as a grout release for SpectraLOCK in the joints. I sure hope that's true. I applied the 511 Impregnator lightly with a chip brush. I did not pour it anywhere, and from my test tile I believe it penetrated into the sides of the tiles with very little remaining on the surface.
I also bought a grout saw, Dremel bit, Dremel diamond EZ-Lock cutting wheel and a grout brush to help me clean thinset out of the tile joints before grouting. Normally I would have kept the joints clean while setting, but with the tight pattern of the tiles it wasn't possible while still cranking out the tile setting. Thinset doesn't stay workable forever, and you can't add water to modified thinset after the initial mixing without compromising its strength. And I didn't want to mix more than 2 batches of thinset due to the shape of the tiles; the tiny square tiles on two edges of each sheet demand that you have a good amount of thinset past each sheet as you lay it down.
Inspecting the floor now that the thinset has dried enough to walk on it, there are a couple of the tiny black marble tiles that are dramatically lower than surrounding tiles. I tried to put extra thinset under those tiles so they wouldn't just be straddling a single thinset pile from the notched trowel, but it looks like I blew it in a couple of spots. I will try to knock those tiles out and reset them. It doesn't matter if I destroy those tiles in the process since I have plenty of extras. In fact I might intentionally do that to avoid risk to surrounding octagon tiles. I was hoping to finish prepping for grout tonight, but it looks like that probably won't happen.
Well, inspection of the floor isn't so great. It's a bit 'lumpy'. That's my fault for doing a medium bed application of thinset with this particular tile. Also, a few tiles were loose; the thinset didn't penetrate the mesh backing and the tile released from the mesh. At the moment this appears to only have occurred on a few tiles, and it was one of the first tiles I installed last night. I suppose I can hope that the thinset wasn't quite ready when I applied that tile.
Thankfully, this is a small floor. But it does make me sad that I might have to rip it out sooner than I'd like. And it makes me think that I should use the SpectraLOCK grout on the floor just to get the additional strength it provides.
Lesson learned: don't use this type of patterned tile in a medium bed application. Despite levelling it while setting, it will move a bit while curing. Especially the tiny square tiles relative to the larger tiles. If I had to do this again, I would have put Ditra on the floor and used a thin bed.
I have replaced the tiles that didn't bond. I also cleaned all of the joints that had thinset in them except the area where tiles have been replaced (tile sheet #13 in my numbering scheme). I did the cleaning with a Dremel grout removal bit, and it went well. I did not find any additional loose tiles. So maybe tomorrow I'll get to clean up the surface of the tiles and grout the floor. That would allow me to start working on the wall tile on Sunday.
I'll need to get some thinset out of various joints before grouting. I chose a gray grout but the thinset is white. I wanted a gray thinset, but the selection is limited at the local big box stores. I also debated this for a while because I wanted the white marble tiles to be as bright as possible. White thinset behind them helps a _tiny_ bit on that front. I didn't want a white grout because even with SpectraLOCK, it will eventually get dingy. And I am going to be using SpectraLOCK because I'm a firm believer in a quality epoxy grout. But it's not going to be easy to apply since the grout joints are less than 1/8" wide but not 1/16". And it's not going to be easy preventing the SpectraLOCK from staining the marble. I will probably try it on a test board first.
I installed two floor tiles with the remaining thinset. This marble tile isn't fun to install. The tiny black marble squares are the main issue. They're not all properly aligned, and I didn't notice a really bad one on tile #2 until after the thinset was fairly dry. In addition, the mesh ont eh back isn't consistent. Some tiles have one layer, others have two layers overlapped in places, and some have incomplete mesh. This makes it difficult to prevent lippage. I'll have to live with it and hope that I can minimize the lippage. And live and learn: check these issues when buying tile. I backbuttered the tiles to help, but it's not fun when there's lippage built in to an individual sheet due to variable mesh thickness.
Tomorrow I hope to install roughly half of the floor tile. If the pieces I put in today are fully set, I might be able to install all of it.
After I remove all of the tiles, I need to sand the edge of the hardwood floor. And the first piece to be installed MUST be the threshold, else I'll have to remove the door jamb.
Once the Redgard had dried, I checked my layout lines again and then started cutting tiles. Many of the straight cuts are done, and the most difficult cut around the toilet flange is done. But I still have amyn cuts to make for the floor.
I need to lightly sand the edge of the hardwood flooring first, to eliminate the sharp edge at the threshold. This is just to provide a nice easy transition to caulk. I'll do the sanding with my Bosch MX30.
I cut the marble threshold to length and trimmed the door casing to accomodate it. The door casing is kind of beat up from the previous owners' dog(s), I may eventually replace it. But it'll work for now and I am now able to install the threshold. Obviously I left room for thinset and color-matched caulk.
The tile saw from Harbor Freight works fine, it went through the marble (which is soft) like butter. The water tray sucks, since its stopper leaks pretty badly. But with the Bosch blade I don't anticipate any problems cutting marble and ceramic. No porcelain involved in this particular job, but I think the Bosch blade would do just fine with it. The pump works fine, and if I put it in a clean bucket of water instead of in the tray, I think it will work for a long time. But I'd like to be able to keep the pump in the tray. What I need is some stainless steel filtering mesh to keep tile silt out of the pump area. McMaster-Carr 9419T11?
I applied the primer coat of Redgard, then the first full coat.
Separately, I received the Bosch TS1003 left side support and Bosch TS1002 rear outfeed support for my Bosch 4100-09 table saw. I installed them. I also received the Leecraft BH-1 zero clearance insert, which I have not yet installed but it looks like a nice piece. I'll cut this one for 90 degree cuts and order a second one for 45 degree cuts. This should help prevent tearout.
I put another coat of joint compound on the holes from the old light fixtures. Tomorrow the new light fixture should arrive, and hopefully I can decide where it will go on the wall despite not having purchased a cabinet or mirror.
I need to order some 316 stainless lag screws to mount the sink pedestal to the floor. The base of the pedestal is roughly 5/8" thick, the tile is about .4" thick and the backer board is 1/4" thick. 1/4" diameter should work, and I probably need 2.5" long ones. McMaster-Carr 90123A127.
I also need a carbide tipped drill bit to drill through the tile. McMaster-Carr 2954A5?
I also need a cheap plastic level to eliminate lippage when I lay the floor tiles. The red Task Force one at Lowe's is perfect. Cheap and possibly not accurate, but I don't need it to be accurate. I just need it to be straight and non-metal so it doesn't scratch or chip the tiles.
The toilet should be here on Wednesday, at which point I can check that the new supply location will work. The new light fixture, towel ring and TP holder will be here on Tuesday.
The 2x4 support that was behind the old fixtures was lumpy from screw removal, which would have made it difficult to patch the holes. I used my pneumatic die grinder and a 3" 60 grit aluminum oxide Roloc sanding disk to smooth them out and allow me to put drywall patches in place.
I cut and installed drywall patches in the holes from the old fixtures, each fastened with a single drywall screw. I left about a 3/16" gap around the edge to fill with joint compound. I then applied the first coat of joint compound.
I fastened all of the cement board with my 18V impact driver.
General observation about remodelling versus new construction: it's always the little things you find along the way that slow you down, and you can't plan for everything. Some things you can't see until you've ripped out some sheetrock or flooring. But, some of this is my own fault... I could have planned a few more things if I had made purchase decisions earlier. For example, I waited until the last minute to order the toilet (hemming and hawing between the 1-piece and the 2-piece), which meant I couldn't plan the toilet supply because their requirement for hiding it are different (I have no idea why; the skirt looks the same in pictures). And there are things that are new: I had never used cement board before and while it's not hard to work with, it's not the same as doing a mortar bed. When you need to use the same stud to support the edges of two pieces, it's difficult to not get tear-out. Worse than sheetrock, because you can't use a standard countersink for very many holes before it's dull.
All of the wall cement board panels are cut, and I tested their fitment. I'm good to screw them down and mud and tape when I'm ready. But before I do that, I need to figure out where I'm going to mount the new light fixture and get wiring in that wall. It will be near impossible to get a fish tape through that section since it's crammed with plumbing, supports and insulation. Hence I need to do it while I have the cement board off since it will be much easier.
I installed the remaining blocking between the wall studs to support the sheetrock and cement board, including support for both sides of the sink. I cut three pieces of cement board and installed them before the sun went down.
I then went to work on the plumbing. I wanted longer pipes coming out of the wall for the sink supplies, since their length was iffy once the tile is installed and I knew the ends were not in great shape from the last time I had the valves off. And since I need to install the cement board and tile, I really wanted longer pipes with soldered-on caps so I don't have to worry about them while installing cement board and tile. The hard part here was just getting enough water out of the system so I could solder. Other than the toilet supply in this bathroom, these valves are the lowest valves in the house and are fed by the same branch that feeds the second floor bathroom and the master bathroom. I tried opening all of the faucets, shower heads, etc. and draining into a 5-gallon bucket, but as usuall it wasn't effective. I would up having to use my air compressor with 100' of air hose to blow out the water.
I now have two longer sink supply pipes coming out of the wall, with soldered-on caps. The water is back on, and there are no leaks. So I can proceed with cement board and tile there without worries. When I'm done tiling, I can cut the pipes to length and install valves.
I went to Lowe's to get chrome flanges for the plumbing, Miracle sealants 511 impregnator for the marble and sash brushes to coat the edges, and another chrome shutoff valve.
I went to Home Depot to get 8D common nails (just to use as spacers for cement board), 6 Simpson GA2 gusset angles, 22 Simpson A23Z angles and some Simpson screws. The Simpson stuff is to put blocking in the walls to support the ends of the cement board and sheetrock where I cut the sheetrock.
The cement board is now on the floor. I put thinset down with a 1/4 notched trowel, then placed the cement board and screwed it down with backer board screws using my Bosch impact driver. This was a painful process, only because the room is so small that it's difficult to work in. One piece of cut-to-size cement board is 2/3 of the room!
I created most of the blocking supports that I can use, but still need to add a second block to some of them.
I have figured out what I need to do on the left side of the sink in terms of anchoring it to the wall. It's not easy, but it'll work with some creative use of the Simpson A23Z brackets. On the right side, I don't have great options because the PVC waste pipe from the second floor is in the way. I'll probably just stack three 2x4's to the stud. It looks like this is what the original builder tried to do with the original pedestal sink, but they were placed incorrectly (too low). And it was done with 16d common nails, which I probably can't get out without tweaking the drywall on the other side of the wall from torque. I might be able to alleviate some of that issue if I can get some of the nails cut off first. That would allow me to use longer blocking pieces for better support.
At any rate, all of the blocking I can use is installed except for the sink supports and one of the blocks on the left wall where there is plumbing. I just need to cut and stack a second piece there, and I can't do it at night since it needs my table saw. I'll finish these supports in the morning and then start installing cement board on the walls. This will require turning off the water main since I'll need to remove the shutoff valves again.
I taped down 2 swaths of protective paper in the foyer to protect it from the demolition work that will get gypsum dust and sawdust on the floor.
On the list for today: remove the toilet, finish removing the hardwood flooring, remove the sheetrock, and figure out how I am going to support the new sink on the wall. There is plumbing in the way, we'll see what I come up with. I also need to finalize how I'm going to deal with the parts that were missing from the sink/pedestal combo, namely the rubber bumpers that suspend the sink above the pedestal. Without figuring this out, I can't accurately determine where the sink anchors need to be placed in the wall.
Well, it took me a couple of hours to figure out what to do to place the sink on the pedestal, before I realized I had it upside down. I feel like an idiot since I spent an hour creating a spacer I don't need, but problem solved. I still need rubber bumpers that were missing from the sink/pedestal combo, but I can make do with cabinet door bumpers for the time being.
I removed the toilet, as a single piece. It wasn't too messy since I used a siphon to get all of the water out of the bowl beforehand. I then removed the remainder of the hardwood flooring. The toilet supply valve leaks just like the others, I'll need a replacement. For now I've got a bowl under it. Very slow drip, but annoying just the same. I've got a 500W halogen light pointing at the subfloor there for now, to dry out the little bit of moisture.
I put my double door fan in the front doorway and then removed the door trim and cut out the lower 42" of drywall.
I cleaned up the subfloor with my Shop Vac and a damp rag after fixing high spots from hardwood floor nail pullouts. I then applied a single thin coat of Redgard waterproofing. I am not sealing the subfloor; my only objective here was to give myself more work time with the thinset that will go between the subfloor and the cement board. Even though I only need to lay two pieces on the floor, it's not going to be easy because the room is so small; there's almost no room to work. So buying myself a little more work time with the thinset is a good idea.
I need to put some blocking in to support to edges of the drywall and cement board. The only tricky spot is the space for the sink plumbing. I might not do that spot, and instead just hope that it will be OK. It's not as if someone can bump into the wall there, the sink will be in the way.
I started the hardwood floor tearout. The hard part is done: cutting and removing the boards that traverse the door threshold. I cut across using my oscillating tool. I had to modify a wood blade for my oscillating tool by halving its width with my bench grinder so I could get under the door casing without removing the casing. I may later remove the door casing.
Given the pulled muscle in my back, we'll see how much I can get done today. I haven't had more than a few hours of sleep at a time in 6 days and it's finally starting to get to me. Hopefully I'll feel better after my run to Lowe's and some yard work. Keeping surrounding muscles loose helps, but at the same time I have to be careful to not overstress the muscle that's injured. Doh!
Well, after the yard work, I feel OK. Not 100%, but today is the first day in a week that I haven't had to take Vicodin just to function. On Thursday I had to take five, and I still didn't sleep much. Yay for some healing!
I picked up a roll of drop paper to protect the hallway while tearing out the half bathroom. I'll do some of it tonight, but I expect to do most of it tomorrow. The trickiest part will be removing the hardwood flooring since it extends into the rest of the house. I need to cut it straight across, which is a crosscut. I think I can do it with my oscillating tool, but it won't be easy.
I removed the baseboard on three of the walls, and removed the door. I'm now preparing to remove the sink. I'm going to need some new hardware there; the existing valves are corroded brass and it looks like there's a poorly rigged adapter setup. The waste pipe is part brass and part PVC. Once the sink is out, I'll have a closer look at what needs to be done. I haven't opened the new sink boxes yet, I'll do that once I have the toilet and old sink removed.
OK, the sink has been removed. Unfortunately, the shutoff valves don't work. They drip fairly regularly when closed. I'll need new ones, preferably chrome and preferably not quarter-turn ball valves such as the ones that are leaking. I'm old school, for a reason. It's damn silly to have el-cheapo quarter-turn ball valves for a bathroom faucet supply. How often do you turn sink supply valves off? Pretty much never, and when you do, it's because you're replacing the faucet or faucet lines. In which case, you surely don't want it leaking.
I think I've decided that I need to buy a marble threshold. That will allow me to keep water in the bathroom if a leak ever develops, and makes the transition to the foyer easier to manage. Not to mention it should look better. It means I'll probably have to trim the bottom of the door, but that's no big deal since it's a solid wood door.
I finished patching the hole from one of the old vanity light fixtures well enough to put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on it to seal it and test fit the new fixture. All is well. See more pictures here.
I also stopped at the Tile Shop and ordered wall tile. I haven't ordered skirt tiles or bullnose yet; I'll do that soon. The skirt tiles are ludicrously expensive; $15 per 5.875" x 8" tile. It is really worth $360 added cost?
The second Elk Lighting 52002/3 fixture is on its way here. It should be here on Friday.
I started refinishing three more of the vanity drawer faces. They've been sanded and stained. Tomorrow I'll start applying tung oil finish (which is really just thinned varnish).
It's worth noting that I suspect the same PVC waste pipe I found yesterday would be in the way of a recessed medicine cabinet in the half bathroom. That's good to know since I have been hemming and hawing over recessed versus surface mount. Now I can take some measurements to determine if the waste pipe is between the studs where I intend to install a medicine cabinet in the half bathroom.
I installed new knobs on the master bathroom vanity. One of the sixteen I bought at Lowe's was apparently a return that they put back on the shelf; the threads were completely stripped out. I'll buy a replacement tomorrow.
I will install the second Delta Kinley faucet tomorrow or over the weekend. I'm not happy with the water flow from these faucets, but that's what happens with regulations. Sadly, low-flow faucets mean I just wind up leaving them on a lot longer while I wait for hot water to reach them. And leave the room while I wait, which means I'll waste even more water. I don't leave my faucets running unnecessarily, I turn them off frequently while I'm using them. I even turn off my shower faucet multiple times while showering; I am water conscious. But sadly most people are not, so we wind up with a forced-upon-us solution.
I installed one of the Baldwin wall plates (single GFCI for the hot tub timer). While trying to install the 4-gang plate for the light switches, I broke one of the screws. I'll need to pick some up at Lowe's (item 26194). While I'm there I should pick up a Lutron MIR-600THW for the hot tub lights, an MACL-153MLH for the shower light and a pair of Pass & Seymour 1595NTLTRCC4 outlets.
One of the issues with the 4-gang light switch box is that the 4-gang box was poorly installed; it's crooked and comes too far out on one end, and hence gets in the way of the wall plate screws. I might be able to shave it back a bit with my Dremel.
I ordered new wall plates for the master bathroom from Wayfair. More of the Baldwin Classic Square Bevel design: a 4742.150.CD 4-gang for the light switches and exhaust fan and some 4743.150.CD for the Jacuzzi timer and wall outlets. they should be here on Thursday. I need to replace the wall outlets, and I still have plans to replace the light switches for the shower and jacuzzi.
Since there is no good location near the shower for a towel bar, I installed a robe hook on the pillar near the shower door. I'll use this to hold my towel while I'm in the shower. I installed a toilet paper holder near the toilet. I installed a double 24" towel bar up high on the wall next to the vanity. A second will be installed underneath it tomorrow. I installed a towel ring to the right of the vanity mirror. A second will be installed on the wall to the left of the vanity tomorrow. I bought a matching glass shelf, but haven't decided where I'm going to install it. It might go above the toilet to hold potpourri or the like, though my original intent was to put it to the left of the vanity to hold my toothbrush charger and other items.
All of these pieces are from the Moen Sage collection, with a spot-resistant satin nickel finish. Obviously they don't match the original brass pieces that remain in the master bathroom, but those will be replaced in due time since I hate the look of brass hardware.
I need to start putting together a list of materials to renovate the bathroom. I will choose wall tile on Friday, but I also need to choose paint, lighting, etc. And come up with a list of Hardiboard, thinset, etc.
I didn't really have time to dig into troubleshooting, other than making sure I didn't have a gas leak. I set up the wick-type kerosene heater, filled it and started it, turned on the ceiling fans, turned off the furnace at the thermostat, and left for work. It was 57F in the house when I left. Checking the Nest a few times throughout the day, the house came up to 65F. Good enough to be comfortable and prevent my pipes from freezing.
When I got home, I started looking into how direct-vented furnaces work. Youtube was helpful, especially grayfurnaceman. After some research, I concluded that my first task was to figure out why the inducer blower was not starting. It wasn't warm, nor humming. It spun freely. Hmm, not getting power for some reason? I opened the lower compartment of the furnace and found the condensation lines full of water. That's an issue for another day, but I did remove them and clean them since I didn't want to get wet if I had to remove the inducer. I then removed the front panel of the control box, and immediately recognized the problem. One of the wires to the inducer relay coil had come off (presumably from vibration). I reattached it, repowered the furnace, and was good to go. I reattached the condensation lines and put all the covers back on.
Simple problem with a simple (and free!) fix.
I exported a very small set of phone numbers to a VCard from my contacts list on my Mac, then transferred it to the Panasonic KX-TG7875S. So I now have a small phone book available from the cordless handsets.
To get things set up in the kitchen, I will need a new wall plate and decora keystone inserts. I put some items in my wish list on Amazon. The hard part will be getting an ethernet cable or two to the wall plate; from what I can see in the basement, the existing phone wiring goes through three sandwiched joists to get to the base plate of the kitchen wall. :-(
Since my Ooma Telo is behind my firewall, I only connected its "WAN" port and reconfigured it to allow access to its web interface on that port.
I then my smaller impact driver to install the brush-type garage door seals. It's a good thing that I bought three kits instead of just two; even if you don't make any mistakes, there isn't enough seal in one kit to complete a 7'x16' garage door. False advertising. I bought three kits to avoid additional shipping charges in case I made any mistakes, but it turns out I'll need three kits to cover two doors even without any errors on my part.
I will need one more piece of Azek trim in order to do the same work on the south garage door.
The tape and mud work I did on the ceiling has failed at the joint with the east wall. I believe this happened from moisture that was still in the drywall from the vent boot leak I fixed. I'm reluctant to just redo the mud and tape work, especially now that I have some shelf stays in the way. I will likely install some trim to help hold everything in place and avoid having to do more drywall work. I'm also suspicious of the laundry room cantilever setup. It's a bump-out addition (bumping into the garage), and to me it doesn't look like it's up to code in terms of joist support below. That probably explains the drywall joint crack between the laundry room bump-out and the door to the attic. I think I want to put an LVL beam in the basement to tie the other end of the laundry room joists to the basement floor.
The floor registers arrived from Signature Hardware. I installed them.
The Baldwin 4754.150.CD wall plates arrived from Wayfair. I installed nine of them, but most of them are going in the tile backsplash and each of the cutouts in the tile backsplash need to be enlarged to accommodate wall plate screws. Pain in the butt work with the Dremel and diamond wheels. And one of them is in a hole that was cut incorrectly (too large), patched with joint compound and then the outlet and the wall plate were shoved into the joint compound while it was still wet. I'm repairing with water putty and I will wait for it to dry before completing the shaping of it and installing a new outlet and the new wall plate. I have 8 more wall plates to install in the kitchen.
I've decided that I want 3 more of the Pass & Seymour 1595NTLTRWCC4 GFCI outlets with nightlights in the kitchen. Two on the south wall and one above the desk.
I ordered two floor registers from Signature Hardware. Antique design, solid brass, brushed nickel finish, 4" x 10". One will replace the crappy wood one, the other will be installed where there was never a register (no idea what happened there... why would the previous owners take a floor register with them?).
I ordered 17 Baldwin 4754.150.CD wall plates. Yes, there are 17 single-gang outlets in the kitchen that still have the original builder-grade nylon wall plates. Some of them are cracked, one has a large piece broken off of the corner, and all of them look hideous. These 17 wall plates will finish the conversion to decent wall plates in the kitchen. If I could get my butt up on the roof to fix the leaking pipe boot, I'd be ready to patch and paint the kitchen.
Next time I'll order a 4-pack of the real Aprilaire filters from Amazon.
I installed the locks for the Blum 569R glides on the new drawer for the sink cabinet. I once again checked fitment in the cabinet, with the PVC floor in place. It fits well. I installed it in the cabinet, and reinstalled the Rev-A-shelf unit.
I ordered a sheet of chemical-resistant PVC from McMaster-Carr for the floor of the sink cabinet. I also ordered some 1" long serrated-thread screws: #6 and #8. These parts will let me install the Blum 569R glides for the new drawer without having the glides hit the bottom piece of the cabint face, and provide a surface that's easy to clean and resistant to cleaning supply spills. I wish I had planned to do this before I install the cabinet; I don't think I can get a single contiguous piece in the cabinet with the cabinet installed. Not a big deal, I shouldn't have any trouble installing it if I cut it in half. These parts should arrive tomorrow.
I want to put a 1/4" thick piece of chemical resistant PVC in the bottom of the cabinet before installing the glides. It will be easy to clean as needed, will protect the wood floor, and bring the Blum 569R glides up so they'll clear the bottom piece of the cabinet face. I could probably use a 3/16" thick piece, given that the lip of the cabinet face is .22" above the floor. But a 1/4" thick piece will guarantee clearance for the Blum 569R glides and also allow me to route shallow grooves in the PVC floor to control any slow leaks from kitchen sink plumbing. I need to buy a core box (round nose) router bit. The Whiteside 1405B B6 is about right for what I want to do.
I want to change my Stoko Vario dispensers to the white versions. I used the black ones because I already had them, but they stick out like a sore thumb in the laundry room. It's trivial to replace them, and they're not expensive.
I reinstalled the hinges and knobs on the wall cabinet doors.
Tomorrow I hope to finish painting the cabinet so I can install it on the wall by the end of the week.
Before I went to bed, I put the first coat of paint on the front of the wall cabinet doors.
I later wetsanded the trash can cabinet door with 320 and put the final coat of polyurethane on it. Much later, I officially installed the door on the Rev-A-Shelf and put some temporary bumpers on it which will be replaced by the Quietex bumpers when they arrive. With the exception of some caulking of the edge of the PVC cabinet floor to the interior sides of the cabinet, the trash can cabinet project is done for now.
I ordered some Quietex cabinet bumpers from quikdrawers.com. The original cabinet bumpers in the kitchen are toast. Most are worn down. Many of them are sticking, making the cabinet doors difficult to open. The Quietex bumpers are likely the nicest bumpers available. I ordered both .4" and .5". I think I can use the .5" in most places, but I know I'll need the .4" in other places.
I am attempting to repair the broken cabinet door I discovered the other night. I put some Titebond III wood glue in the gaps and clamped it up with 7 clamps. Even if it holds, it won't be perfect since it looks like the split has been there for a long time. But it'll be good enough for now if it holds, sine the split is on the inside of the cabinet door. i.e. it's not visible when the door is closed. A replacement door with no finish will run about $100, so I'm hoping that my repair holds up.
In the evening, I sanded the trash can cabinet door with 220 and put the second coat of polyurethane on the back. Tomorrow morning I'll put the second coat on the front. I'd like to have the third coat done by the end of the weekend so I can do the final installation.
In the process of wiping down the cabinets, I realized that one of the cabinet doors is broken. The lower frame piece is split all the way across, and the raised panel is warped and has detached from the frame piece. I'm not sure I can fix it, but there's little harm in trying. Worst case, I have to order a replacement.
I put a coat of stain on the door to try to match it to the existing cabinetry. I don't think I could do better. Here's a picture of the door with stain, just sitting on the floor propped against the opening.
I installed the knob and mounted the door to the Rev-A-Shelf with two screws. It needs some adjustment, which is why I put the screws into two of the slotted holes in the Rev-A-Shelf. I'll make the adjustments later and then install the remaining screws. But it looks pretty good.
It feels good to have gone from this:
For what it's worth, the runner in the picture is my work rug. When I'm done with all of the kitchen rework, I'll be buying a new runner.
The cabinet door I ordered for the trash can cabinet should arrive tomorrow.
I need to carefully measure the space under the kitchen desk so I can make a cabinet to fit there. It's roughly 21" deep, 30" wide and 24.5" tall, but I need to measure the toe kick and figure out how I want to build the cabinet as well as which hinges I want to use or which drawer slides I want. I'd like to be able to store large items here like my Kitchen Aid mixer and my large crockpot, since I currently have nowhere to keep those. A full-width rollout setup would allow large items.
The hood I really wanted is the Futuro Futuro Galaxy, but it won't allow me to keep the front arch tile since its chimney is 11 3/8" deep. But I need to cut into the tile arch box from the other side to see how much room I really have. If it turns out that none of these chimneys will let me keep the tile arch intact, my basic plan will need to change.
I created a French cleat and installed half of it on the laundry room wall above the utility sink, and the other half on the cabinet. I tested the fitment of the cabinet on the wall, it fits.
I need to prime and paint this cabinet (white). The second old cabinet has water damage to a side and the bottom. Hence I don't intend to use it, though I may save the face and doors and re-use them. The main objective of doing this work right now is getting the cabinets out of the dining room where they've been sitting on the floor for almost a year.
One week from now, the door for the waste bin cabinet should be shipped.
I quickly measured the kitchen island so I can start working up a plan to add on to it and get rid of the flimsy two-tier countertop. The island is just over 4' wide, and if I count the second tier of the countertop, it is 6' long. But cabinet-wise, it's only 54.125" long with a 23.75" x 18" cutout.
I continue to try to figure out what to do about a range hood. I'd really like to keep the front of the tile arch, which constrains my options considerably.
I discovered an issue here. Due to the window well countertop getting wet where it shouldn't, it is quite bowed on the front (upward). As in more than 1/8". I can shim and flex my trim piece to match the curve, or start over with a 1x3 that's carefully cut to match the curve, but that sort of sucks as a solution. I tried standing on the counter to see if it flexes, but it doesn't. I'd have to steam bend it, and that's not going to happen.
For now I'll flex the trim piece and fill the gap below it with silicone caulk. When I replace the countertops, I'll replace the window well countertop too. The downside of having to flex this piece (other than the gap) is that I'll likely need to put finish nails in it while the glue sets up.
I sprayed 2 more coats of polyurethane on the trim piece. I'm out of spray, so I think I'm done. I don't think I'll have these countertops long enough for more coats to be necessary.
I installed the trim piece using Loctite Premium 3X and finish nails. It looks much better than what was there before. When the adhesive dries, I'll put another coat or two of polyrethane on the wood and then caulk with clear silicone caulk.
Unfortunately, the polyurethane isn't drying on this piece. I suspect the problem is that this piece has been so loaded with grease, cleaners, etc. over the years that it's saturated and won't take a finish. I had put another coat of ployurethane on the toe kick of the new trash can cabinet and the first 4" of the inside of that cabinet at the same time, and it's been dry to the touch for many hours.
The trim piece isn't just a simple trim piece. It's 3/4" thick, with only 3/8" exposed and that 3/8" is rounded with a 3/8" radius. It can't just be replaced, because it can't be removed without destroying the laminate and damaging the MDF. It's one of the downsides of this type of countertop; the wood edges can't be replaced without destroying the countertp.
What I decided to do was to cut off the exposed 3/8" using my oscillating tool and wood chisels. It took several hours (ugh). I created a piece to adhere in its place by cutting a 1x2 oak piece to 3/8" thick and 53.5" inches long, and ran a 3/8" roundover bit on the top and sides with my router. This is an exact match to the piece I'm replacing. I will pre-finish in on all sides before installing it, in an attempt to keep moisture out of it. I already started, by putting a coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on the visible surfaces and then a coat of satin polyurethane on the whole thing.
I will also run a bead of clear silicone caulk on the bottom where it sets onto the main countertop. It looks like this wasn't done with the original countertop piece, hence the problem with moisture seeping into the wood.
The original trim piece was installed using 18 gauge finish nails, and presumably an adhesive. I'd prefer to avoid staples or finish nails, and just use adhesive (Loctite PL Premium 3X). It will of course require clamp-up, but I can manage that pretty easily. An advantage of using the Loctite PL Premium 3X is that it's waterproof, and if I skin both surfaces before bonding, it will provide water protection to both the new trim piece and what is left of the old one.
Due to the countertop window well resting right on top of the kitchen countertop, I did cut the countertop laminate in a few places when cutting off the edge of the window well countertop. This isn't of any real consequence since it'll be covered by the new trim piece and sealed, it was just annoying. I can't help but think that this whole setup was a measurement mistake, and that the sill was supposed to be at the same level as the countertop so one contiguous piece of formica could have been used. It's not smart to stack wood right on top of a surface that gets wet many times a day. If I were feeling more ambitious about this project, I'd rip the whole sill out and replace it with HardieBacker 500 and porcelain tile or a piece of quartz countertop. It's worth noting that even though I cut off 3/8", there were still black water stains visible. Hence I would never have been able to make it look good with stain and clear finishes.
The good news is that the new piece I made appears to fit nearly perfectly. I need to clean up the cut I made in the sill a bit (probably using a 3" sanding disk on my die grinder), but the new piece looks much better than what was there before. I will continue working on this piece in the morning, since I intend to make it as smooth as possible and get at least 4 coats of polyurethane on the front of it.
I filled the visible pocket holes of the trash can cabinet with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, let it dry, then sanded it flush. These pocket holes are inside the cabinet, and hence won't be visible when the door is closed. But I wanted to eliminate areas where grime might collect and be difficult to clean. I put a coat of polyurethane on the putty to seal it.
The Rev-A-Shelf setup appears to fit in the cabinet, but I need a little more clearance than the PVC provides to go over the lip of the fascia. I went to Lowe's and bought an 18" x 24" piece of .080" thick acrylic. I cut the acrylic and PVC pieces to size and fitted them in the floor of the cabinet. It's perfect height-wise, it brings the floor flush with the edge of the fascia.
I then installed the Rev-A-Shelf unit and put the bins in it. I like it, it's much better than a trash compactor. I have somewhere to put recyclables, and it'll work in a power outage. It's much less likely to fail, and cost a LOT less.
I put the trash can cabinet in position, then clamped the fascia in position in order to drill the pilot holes for screws that hold it to the lazy susan and sink cabinet. These holes were already in those cabinets from some trim pieces I removed, and I used those holes as drill guides to drill into the sides of the fascia of the trash can cabinet. I also screwed some of the pocket hole screws into the fascia from the trash can cabinet sides. I then removed those screws, put a bead of Loctite Premium 3X on the edges of the trash can cabinet, and reinstalled the fascia. All of the screws are in place, and the cabinet seems to be firmly positioned.
I put a long cabinet screws into the lower back panel, that goes into a wall stud. The cabinet now can't tip forward and stress the fascia. This matters because once the dual waste bin setup is installed, the cabinet would want to tip forward when the bin glides are fully extended. The bin glides are rated for 100 lbs., and with the door and two full bins plus the glides and hardware, there would be enough weight to tip the cabinet if it wasn't fastened well. Of course it can't tip when it's under the countertop, but I don't want the countertop and fascia to be the only stress points.
I applied some real oak laminate to the toe kick, covering the section of lazy susan and trash can cabinet toe kicks. I still have one seam at the sink cabinet, but it's better than two seams and the laminate is a better (but not perfect) match than the red oak toe kick on the trash can cabinet. I used 3M 90 spray adhesive to attach it, since using high heat likely would not have worked on the lazy susan toe kick; it appears to be vinyl coated MDF and I didn't want it to delaminate from heat. I put a coat of polyurethane on the laminate. When I finish coating it, I will caulk the floor joint and the joint at the sink cabinet.
I replaced the cracked electrical wall plate in the trash can cabinet with a beefy cast metal wall plate. I have no use for this outlet, but I don't like having cracked wall plates.
While this cabinet is not perfect, it's MUCH better than the gaping hole with a trashed floor that was left by the previous owners. Once there's a door on it with the waste bins in a gliding rack, I will be very happy with it.
quikdrawers.com sent me an email indicating that the door for my trash can cabinet will not ship until the 15th of this month.
The PVC sheet for the floor of the trash can cabinet shipped this morning, but I don't have tracking information yet. That means it won't be here tomorrow. It shipped from the Cleveland warehouse of McMaster-Carr, so hopefully it will be here on Thursday.
I went to Lowe's and found a cabinet knob that's quite close to the Merillat 506 knobs in my kitchen. This knob will be installed on the new door of the new trash can cabinet. I also bought a can of Watco spray lacquer in satin finish, to coat the front of the fascia and the front of the door when it arrives. Why lacquer? Because it is easy to repair. I'd never use it on a horizontal surface (water rings and lack of resistance to alcohol), but it's fine for the front of cabinets and the ease of repair is a benefit over the long haul.
I cut the piece of 3/4" plywood for the floor. I cut a 4" wide piece to support the top of the fascia, and another that will be the bottom back panel. I also cut a 13" tall piece that will be the upper back panel.
I cut 2 pieces of 2"x2" poplar to add to inside of the sides of the base. These will provide additional support for the floor.
I drilled the pocket holes that will hold the fascia to the sides of the cabinet (3 holes per side), at the marks I made yesterday. While it would have been nice to hide these holes by drilling them from the outside of the sides, I need to be able to put the screws in after the cabinet is in position and the fascia is attached to the other cabinets. So I drilled them from the inside of the cabinet, which will allow me to install the screws from inside the cabinet after the cabinet is in position.
I drilled 6 pocket holes in the upper back panel, to hold it to the sides of the cabinet.
I installed the 2x2's in the base of the cabinet, screwed and glued to the side panels. I then installed the floor, using Loctite Premium 8X construction adhesive to glue it to both the oak boards and the 2x2's. I then installed the lower back panel, which sandwiches the floor to the base. I installed the upper back panel using wood glue and the three pocket holes per side to hold it to the side panels.
I tested the fitment again. It looks pretty good.
I put a coat of Cabot Spar Varnish on the outside of the back and sides of the cabinet. These parts won't be visible, and I had some of the varnish left over from the kitchen sink build. I started putting lacquer on the front of the fascia.
I ordered a 1/4" thick, 24" x 24" piece of chemical-resistant PVC sheet from McMaster-Carr. This will cover the floor of the cabinet before installing the Rev-A-Shelf unit, and make it easy to keep the floor clean. It also closely matches the color of the waste bins.
I glued and screwed the side panels to the base.
I clamped the face frame to the countertop and then marked where it needed to be trimmed to fit between the lazy susan and the sink cabinet. I then cut it on the table saw, freehand (no fence). It now fits snugly between the cabinets, though it's not perfect since I cut it freehand and the existing cabinet edges aren't perfectly straight. But it's pretty damn good, and when it's done it'll be much better than the big empty spot between the cabinets!
I also marked the back of the frame for pocket hole screw locations that won't interfere with existing holes in the other cabinet fascias that I'll use to connect this fascia. I then transferred these marks to the cabinet sides.
Tomorrow I hope to get the floor piece cut and make sure everything fits. I also want to figure out how I'm going to keep the cabinet in place; it will want to tip forward when the trash bin slides are extended, and I don't want all the stress to be transferred to the countertop and fascia. I should be able to put some screws through the back and into a wall stud, but ideally I'd use a metal bracket of some sort to fasten the back of the base to a floor joist. However, then the floor of the cabinet needs to be removable.
I need some satin lacquer to finish the front of the face frame and the door when it arrives.
I figured out which knobs I have on the kitchen cabinets... Merillat Masterpiece Satin Silver (506). I can't seem to find a place to buy them, unfortunately. Lowe's has some that are close, I'll compare tomorrow.
I cut the oak pieces for the trash can cabinet base, and drilled the pocket holes to give the joints additional strength. I then clamped up the pieces to make sure everything is square, then glued and screwed the pieces together.
I cut the pieces for the face of the trash can cabinet, and glued and screwed them together (pocket hole screws). This face will need to be trimmed to the correct width later. I intentionally made it wider than necessary so it can later be trimmed to fit exactly between the existing cabinet faces (which are not quite parallel).
On the way home from work, I bought wood to build the trash can cabinet, and a quart of polyurethane to finish the sides and floor of the cabinet.
Tomorrow I'll pick up supplies for the trash can cabinet build, and maybe get started on it. It'd be nice to have some of it glued up to dry overnight.
I've decided that I want a Futuro Futuro range hood. Mainly because their stack height requirement will allow installation without intruding on the bedroom above the kitchen.
In the interest of preventing more damage, I sanded the area of the hardwood floor that had no finish left on it. This area appears to have been severely worn by a child seat at the flimsy, low part of the kitchen island. The floor needs to be refinished, but in the end I really don't want hardwood in the kitchen; it's a very high traffic area and any water left on the floor will cause damage. Obviously I clean up spills as they occur, but there are things I can't clean up right away... a sink leak, condensation from the refrigerator, etc. And big spills will penetrate the gaps between the hardwood boards unless the finish on the floor is relatively new. And then there's just the issue of dents when something is dropped, scratches from chairs, etc. I want porcelain tile, not hardwood.
I throughly cleaned the condenser using my blow gun and Miele vacuum cleaner. The 50' air hose reel in the center of the garage reached without having to get out one of my extension hoses. There was a lot of dust in the compressor enclosure, it's all cleaned up now too. And I believe the refrigerator is cycling less just from this one cleaning... it needed it badly, I suspect the previous owners rarely cleaned the condenser coils and I suspect they never cleaned the compressor enclosure.
I want to keep the Sub-Zero running as long as possible; these old 532's were built like tanks, and it's upwards of $10,000 to buy a new 48" wide Sub-Zero. Yes, the new ones are fantastic, but a new one is not in my budget.
I created a SketchUp model for the area where I'd like to install a 36" cooktop. I need the model in order to plan for the range hood, vented to the outdoors. Given the tile arch, I need the model to figure out what range hoods will fit. I also need it to plan the gas line and electrical.
In this model, there's a Bosch HCP36651UC range hood and a 36" gas cooktop. The hood looks like it will fit, but I don't know if I'll be able to keep the front tile. A bigger issue is the venting to the outdoors. I was hoping to be able to run a duct through the wall and then up through the garage attic using two 45-degree elbows, but it's looking like that won't be possible. It's due to the height of the blower and backdraft flap assembly. It's possible that my only option is an inline blower assembly like the Broan HLB6 or HLB9, combined with a hood that doesn't have a built-in blower.
One additional item I want is a pot filler faucet. There's one shown in the model, but it's not the one I would use. It's just one whoe SketchUp model was readily available.
I also need a SketchUp model for changes to the kitchen 'desk' and the kitchen island.
I cleaned the condensation drain pipe in the refrigerator. It was clogged. However, even after cleaning, I'm getting condensation in the refrigerator compartment. As near as I can tell, it's due to needing a new door gasket. I reattached the gasket near the lower hinge where it was messed up from years of door misalignment, and fiddled with it using a heat gun, but it's permanently messed up. I'll order a new door gasket soon.
I do know that I want the Rev-A-Shelf RS5349.2150DM.217. It has 100 lb. slides and includes door brackets and two 50-quart waste bins. I also want two lids: one silver (RV-50-LID-17-1) and one green (RV-50-LID-G-1). I've added these items to the kitchen wish list.
My Sub-Zero 532 fridge is leaking condensation. I believe it's all coming from the fresh food side, because the door was never adjusted properly and hence the gasket is messed up on the lower half of the hinge side of the door. I know the door was never adjusted because the lower hinge still had the shipping screws in it. I adjusted the door, we'll see if the condensation stops. I suspect it won't, and I'll need a new door gasket though I may try reinstalling the old one after giving it a bath in warm water. I can get a new gasket at genuineapplianceparts.com.
I removed the compressor cover from the fridge, cleaned it with my blow gun in the garage, and vacuumed out the dust in the coils and the rest of the compressor compartment.
Tomorrow I'll check the condensation collection system.
For the pull-out mechanicals, I can use a Rev-A-Shelf unit. The 5349-2150DM-2 will hold two 50-quart bins. This may or may not leave room for a drawer above, but I'm not desperately in need of more drawer space at the moment.
I still need to spend some time in SketchUp to design an add-on to the island and the kitchen 'desk'. I also need to decide on where to put a new cooktop and how to vent it outdoors. The area of the kitchen with the tiled arch makes the most sense in terms of greasy vapors, but it's furthest from the refrigerator. If I do put a cooktop here, I will use a 42" wide hood since I then have the option of a 36" gas cooktop. This location is much better than the island in terms of venting, if I can manage to do it without having to disrupt the bedroom above the kitchen. I think it's doable; a pair of 45 degree angles will let me pass into the stairwell into the basement and into the garage attic where I can go straight up through the roof.
The Lutron CA-4PSH-WH 4-way switch should arrive between Aug. 26th and Aug. 29th.
The pie-cut hinges to repair one of my lazy susans arrived today. I put a coat of Minwax Tung Oil Finish on the back of the lazy susan doors and installed the new hinges. I then put the lazy susan doors back on the cabinet. The new hinges aren't as nice as the originals, but they work. The originals are no longer available.
The pie-cut hinges to repair one of my lazy susans should arrive tomorrow or Thursday.
I removed the lazy susan's doors, cleaned them, and put a coat of Minwax Tung Oil Finish on the front.
I put the doors back on the undersink cabinet, and applied a coat of Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I removed the protective film from the front of the new dishwasher.
I cleaned the floor of the pantry just so I could move a couple of storage bins in there.
I did a little bit of cleaning up in the kitchen, but it's still quite a mess since it's been the clutter area of all of the work I've done on the house to date. I'm hoping that by tomorrow night I'll have much of it cleaned up.
I installed the new receptacle and cover plate under the sink. It's much more secure than the old one. At some point I'll probably change the wiring for this receptacle so that one of the outlets is always-on instead of being controlled by the wall switch (for the garbage disposal). That will allow a boost pump for reverse osmosis if I want to put the system under the sink instead of in the basement.
I cut a piece of ribbed plastic shelf liner and installed it on the floor of the undersink cabinet.
I cleaned the front of the undersink cabinet and applied a wipe-on coat of Minwax Tung Oil Finish. I cleaned the left door of the cabinet (door not installed yet). I'll clean the right one tomorrow and put Minwax Tung Oil Finish on both of them as well as the top panels and reinstall them.
I printed the labels for the Festool Systainer 3 T-Loc that is now the case for the new belt sander (which didn't come with a case or bag). I coated them with spray gloss lacquer, cut them out, stuck them on the plastic cards and put them in the slots on the Systainer. I then put the sander away.
Tomorrow I'm going to spend some time cleaning up the kitchen. I also need to spend some time thinking about building a cabinet to fill the space formerly occupied by a trash compactor. I've decided it's a given that I'm going to change the center island, and I can incorporate a wine refrigerator there. The space formerly occupied by a trash compactor should have a pull-out for a trash can.
I installed the new diswasher. The electrical box is mounted on the inside of the right panel of the new undersink cabinet. I had a little trouble with the hot water supply valve being corroded inside which didn't allow the Bosch supply line to fit. I cleaned the inside of the valve output with a fine-grit stone on my Dremel and all went well afterward.
I ran a half load in the dishwasher. It works well. I do want to do something about hot moist air hitting the underside of the countertop, since it's bare MDF. Spar varnish is probably sufficient, but I may glue a piece of FRP or stainless steel there.
I received a Festool Systainer T-Loc III for the new belt sander. The belt sander is now in it, but I need to print the label cards.
So on the way home from work I picked up a Kohler Barossa. It has the features I considered essential: pull-down sprayer, magnetic docking system, high arch spout, 360 degree spout rotation, single lever control, ceramic disc valves. It also has the Sweep Spray that's handy for cleaning off plates. And it was only $199, which is much less expensive than the Moen Delaney with MotionSense.
I successfully removed the old faucet control and side sprayer, but have not yet removed the faucet itself. I'm about to do that. The sink has a bizarre 4-hole setup that isn't suited to the new faucet; 2 in the back near the smaller sink well that were used for the old faucet and control, one in the sink well divider that had the side sprayer, and one on the left back corner for the soap dispenser. The one for the side sprayer was truly annoying, since the sprayer sticking up between the sink wells was always in the way. Until I buy a new sink, I'll be using covers to cover the two holes I won't be using. Home Depot only had crappy plastic chrome plated ones in the store, I'll need to order some decent stainless steel ones. I bought one of the crappy ones at Home Depot just to temporarily cover the hole previously occupied by the side sprayer. I'm just going to tape over the other hole until I get a better hole cover. Later I'll be installing a reverse osmosis drinking water system that will utilize this hole.
I removed the old faucet, then installed the new one. I used the hole furthest to the right, which will allow me to fill pots on the counter by just swiveling the faucet. I hooked it all up, it works fine. Lower flow rate than the faucet I removed (which appears to have been original to the house), but that was expected since water conservation is pushing faucets toward lower flow rates.
I'm already looking for an alternative soap dispenser because the one that came with the faucet is a low-grade plastic unit that gets negative reviews.
I marked the top of the left side panel for the material that still needs to be removed, since that side needed a little bit more removed. I didn't want to take any more material off the bottom. I then used my router with a guide to take off what was necessary. The cabinet is now in position and fits perfectly, and the dishwasher is in position and fits well too. I now need a new kitchen sink faucet since the leaks are a problem, and then I can connect the dishwasher feed, exhaust and electrical and button everything up. I don't want to connect the diswasher lines yet because they'll be in the way when replacing the faucet.
I know the bottom edges are now not perfectly straight, but I'm OK with it. We'll see how it looks once it's installed.
If I add quarter-round, I'll need a pin nailer; the Porter-Cable PIN138 would probably be fine.
I glued in the Kreg wood plugs to fill the pocket holes inside the cabinet. They stuck out a fair amount. I sanded them down using my die grinder and then the random orbital sander.
I cut a 2.5" tall rounded notch out of the back of the right side of the cabinet to accomodate the diswasher electrical, supply and exhaust lines. This is bigger than necessary, but the 3/4" thick oak plywood is strong so it made sense to leave myself ample room to feed things through the cabinet. I used a straight bit on my router instead of a hole saw, to get a nice clean notch with no chipping or peeling of the plywood's veneer.
I then put another coat of Cabot spar varnish on the inside of the cabinet and the edges of the new notch.
What's left to do on the new cabinet... caulk the floor where it meets the side panels and fascia, and install the back support after the cabinet is in place under the sink.
I need a new faucet for the kitchen sink. I actually need a new sink too, since I hate the layout of the existing sink. But I can live with it for now. The faucet, however, leaks in use at the handle, and has solid copper feeds that also leak a tiny bit and are severely corroded. I'm hoping I can get by with the existing faucet for a bit, since the replacement I want (Moen Delaney with MotionSense) is pricey.
I cut and installed a piece of FRP on the wall behind the sink, below the sink plumbing. This is mostly to protect the wall from water damage. I used 3M 90 adhesive, which means it's permanent. Any future wall work will mean replacing drywall.
I attempted to install the new cabinet, but it's a bit too tall. I should have been more careful with my measurements. I used the old cabinet's panels to set my dimensions, but it appears that the old cabinet's side panels may have been buckeld at installation and not from water damage. Sigh. Now the real issue is that to adjust the height of the cabinet, I need to shave a bit off of the base. I'll want a brand new fine finish blade for my circular saw. Home Depot has the Avanta 60 tooth, which will likely work fine. Lowe's has the DeWalt 60-tooth DW3596L, which is likely a better blade. I can't use a plywood blade because I need to cut through plywood and solid oak at the same time, and my experience with plywood blades on hardwood is that they get too hot and burn the wood.
Really, my circular saw isn't the ideal tool to remove such a small amount of material (3/32" at most). A power planer would probably work but I'm leery of using one on plywood where the visible layer would be cut across the grain. The ideal tool is probably a belt sander, but I don't own one anymore. Time to buy a new one? The Makita 9903 would likely suit my needs, but it looks like no one has one locally. I can get the Porter-Cable 352VS at Lowe's tomorrow. Or the Craftsman 8A 3x21 at Sears.
Undersink cabinet build...
I decided to attach the cabinet fascia today before applying more varnish. This was mainly so I can put varnish on the joints of the fascia during my next coat of varnish, as well as inside the pocket holes. I drilled 6 pocket holes in the side panels for the fascia (3 on the left panel, 3 on the right panel). I then put the cabinet on its back and ran a bead of Loctite PL Premium 8X on all of the edges that would slot into the fascia. I put the fascia on, clamped it in place, then drove in the pocket hole screws. It will take 24 hours for the Loctite to fully cure.
I put another coat of spar varnish on the toe kick. It will probably need one more coat, only because I've had to sand more than I'd like between coats on this piece.
I cut the Great Stuff foam flush with the floor at the wall behind the sink cabinet and dishwasher. I put a coat of polyurethane on it just to seal it up a bit. It remains flexible enough that it won't impinge on hardwood floor expansion/contraction, but the floor was stapled down anyway (not floated) so it shouldn't be moving without the subfloor moving with it.
Much later at night, I glued the new HVAC register into the toe kick with Loctite Premium 8X. I'm not yet certain this will be sufficient, but once it dries I will know. I was cautious about using too much adhesive since I didn't want it to seep out during expansion. Hopefully I used enough. Obviously this isn't a structural piece, but I don't want it to fall out.
I put a fourth coat of Cabot spar varnish on the outside of the left panel of the underink cabinet I'm building. I put the third coat on the outside of the right side panel. I put the second coat on the inside of the cabinet.
I cleaned the wall behind the sink and dishwasher with bleach water, then wiped it with a wet sponge and dried it. I then foamed the considerable gap (about 1.5") between the wall and hardwood floor edge with Great Stuff Pest Blocker. Not because it's the ideal solution, but because it's what I had on hand. I then sprayed a coat of Kilz Original primer on the areas of the wall that needed it. When the Great Stuff dries, I'll cut it flush with the floor.
Tomorrow I hope to apply the final coat of spar varnish on the inside of the cabinet, and to glue the fascia to the cabinet.
The heat register from Signature Hardware arrived. This will be installed in the toe kick of the cabinet. I checked that it fits. Unfortunately, despite their web page, it's a floor register, not a wall register. There is no means of mounting provided. It's thick and heavy, it'd work fine in a floor. Given that I don't see myself ever removing it from this cabinet, I might just glue it in place with clear silicone, which would also serve as a gasket. Or I could drill holes in it for countersunk stainless steel wood screws. Given that I like the look without screws, I think I'll just use the silicone or Loctite PL 8X construction adhesive. Or maybe just 3M VHB tape.
I removed the old cabinet's back from the wall under the sink using my Bosch oscillating tool with a half-round blade.
I'm starting to think I'm going to put a piece of the FRP left over from the garage on the floor of the cabinet. It's easy to clean and very resistant to chemicals (and impervious to water). It's a neutral color and it's easy to slide items on it. It doesn't need to be adhered by anything other than a bit of carpet tape, so it will be replaceable. On the other hand, I suspect I might need to use it behind the cabinet; there's water damage to the old cabinet's back, and I haven't removed that from the wall yet.
I'm looking at how I can add on to the island to get rid of the silly two-level counter and gain storage space and room for a dual zone wine refrigerator. I'd also like room for a 36" cooktop instead of the 30", since it doesn't cost much more and a 30" 5-burner is crowded.
I'm also looking at the Bosch HMC87151UC to replace the crappy microwave. The Bosch is a combination microwave and convection oven. Theoretically, it would kill two birds with one stone. On the other hand, it'd be somewhat of a hassle to have it tied up with cooking tasks when I need to microwave something. And the Electrolux Icon is a better but more expensive option.
I sanded the base of the undersink cabinet and applied the second coat of Cabot spar varnish. I applied the first coat of spar varnish to the outside of the left panel (the panel that will be visible until I fill the space previously occupied by a trash compactor).
I brought the diswasher in the house, unwrapped it, and roughly positioned it just so I could get an idea what I need to do for the electrical work and plumbing.
I glued and screwed the sides to the base.
I glued and nailed the floor to the base. I then placed the cabinet on its back and positioned the fascia on the cabinet. This allowed me to position the support wedges at the top and glue them to the sides.
I screwed and glued together the back support pieces after routing the edges of the hardwood parts with a roundoff bit in the router. I installed the lower one in the cabinet. The upper one can't be installed until after the cabinet is under the sink.
I put a coat of Cabot sanding sealer on the sides, back and inside of the cabinet. Once it dries, I'll put a coat on the bottom. I'm not putting any on the toe kick plate because I intend to adhere oak laminate there. I also avoided the front edges since I need to glue the fascia to the cabinet (probably using Loctite PL 8X).
I went to Lowe's to pick up some 3M 90 spray adhesive, a small roll of real oak veneer, some clear silicone caulk, Plast-O-Mat shelf liner, #8 x 1-1/4" wood screws and more foam paint brushes.
I flipped the cabinet upside down and put a coat of sanding sealer on the base of the cabinet.
I cut and installed the small 1x2 pieces to hide the edge grain of the plywood and toe kick board. These pieces are just glued in place with Gorilla wood glue, hopefully that will be sufficient since I don't want to bother with biscuits or dowels. Given the surface area of the glued faces versus the size of the pieces, I think they will be fine for many years.
I cut and intalled the real oak veneer on the front of the toe kick. I've never had good luck using an iron to do this, so I used my heat gun to heat the veneer and a scrap piece of oak to press it. I trimmed it with a sharp wood chisel, and cut out the hole for the HVAC register with a utility knife and then trimmed the hole with a wood chisel.
I put a coat of Cabot spar varnish on the inside base of the cabinet, the toe kick and the back of the rear lower support. I used spar varnish here for its superior moisture protection and its ability to expand and contract. The base of the cabinet serves as an HVAC duct, it will get heated in the winter and cooled in the summer. And being under a sink, it's bound to get wet once in a while. I will be caulking the joints of the cabinet floor with silicone caulk to help prevent any water from seeping into the edges of the plywood.
I went to Lowe's to pick up another oak 1x6, a 1/2" straight router bit to make the dado cuts in the plywood sides of the cabinet to accept some support wedges, and a new pair of Mechanix gloves.
I cut the solid oak pieces for the floor support and toe kick plate. All from 1x6 pieces I ripped to 5.125" width per my design in SketchUp. Two 19" long, two 34" long and one 32.5" long.
I used a new rabbeting bit to notch the two side panels to fit into the dado of the cabinet fascia. I tested the fit, it's fine.
I cut the floor and rabbeted the front edge. I cut the two support pieces for the back. I cut the support wedges that will go between the sides and the fascia. I routed the dados for the support wedges in the sides using the new 1/2" straight router bit. I cut the 1x2 pieces for the back supports. I cut the notches on the lower from part of the side panels.
I cut the rectangular hole in the front toe kick piece for the HVAC register. This hole is 2.25" tall by 10" wide to accomodate the register I've selected but not ordered yet. I cut the same size hole in the inner toe kick piece, then glued them together. I then squared, glued and screwed all of the pieces for the base.
I later clamped the sides in position with the cabinet oriented with the back on the floor. I set the old fascia on the front to check fitment. Everything is good, I can finish assembly being confident that the cabinet replacement will be a success.
Before I make more cuts, I need to finish my SketchUp of the cabinet so I don't make any mistakes with the joinery plans.
I bought two 6' long 1x6 oak pieces to build the support for the floor, and some 6' long 1x2 oak pieces in case I need them for whatever I do with the back.
I bought a quart of Cabot sanding sealer and a quart of Cabot Spar Varnish to seal the plywood.
I bought a 60-tooth fine finish 10" Diablo blade for the table saw. I bought a rabbetting bit for my router, the only one Lowe's had that fits my router. It's a wider cut than I need, but I can deal with that using one of my guides. This is just to shave a bit off the edge of the plywood sides to fit into the existing cabinet fascia.
I bought four more of the Pass & Seymour GFCI outlets with nightlights (1595NTLTRWCC4). I don't yet know how many of these will go in the kitchen, I'm assuming at least two. Technically all of the outlets above the counter in the kitchen should be GFCI to meet current electrical code, but it's a lot of outlets and I likely don't want nightlights in all of them. One by the sink and one somewhere else should be enough light to navigate the kitchen and dining room area at night without turning on any lights. While I'm not averse to using the nightlight outlets to replace all of the existing outlets in the kitchen, it gets expensive since they're almost $18 each and there are 16 outlets in the kitchen/dining area.
I removed the fascia from the undersink cabinet and saved it for reuse. While there's some light damage to it from the cabinet staple removal, it's all on the back side that won't be visible. It does need some minor repair since one of the glued dowel joints is loose, it's reusable so I don't need to rebuild it. Which is good news given that I don't have a planer or joiner.
I removed the severely damaged sides of the undersink cabinet. It's worth noting that there was no floor in the cabinet, it was ripped out by the previous owner or monkey boy Howard. The toe kick plate wasn't connected to anything, it was just propped in place.
The hardwood flooring has ancient, deep water stains. Much of the floor here never had a finish applied. There's no point in trying to remove the stains; I'm sure they're much to deep to sand out, and this floor isn't visible when the cabinet and appliances are in place. But I do want it sealed, so I scraped the deposits off with wood chisels, wiped it down with mineral spirits to remove any film, let it dry, then scuff sanded it and wiped it clean with dry microfiber. I then applied the first coat of Minwax Polyurethane for Floors with a foam brush. When it dries, I'll apply a second coat.
Here's a picture of the damage to the right side of the cabinet, from the dishwasher side. The side had buckled from water damage. The buckling follows the dado that's cut in the other side for the cabinet floor that was unceremoniously ripped out before I bought the house.
And here's a picture of it from inside the cabinet.
Here's a picture of the inside of the front left of the cabinet. This side was damaged too, but it doesn't appear to be from water damage. It was damaged by whoever ripped out the cabinet floor. You can also see that the toe kick plate wasn't attached to anything, and you can sort of see how the 1/4" laminate on the front of this piece had delaminated.
Here's a picture of the staples that formerly supported the back of the floor.
Next, a picture with the front fascia of the cabinet removed.
A picture with the sides of the cabinet removed.
The replacement cabinet will have 3/4" thick oak plywood sides. A 3/4" thick oak plywood floor will be supported around its perimeter by 1x6 pieces of oak on edge. The new toe kick plate will be solid oak. I haven't decided what to do for an HVAC grill in the toe kick plate; I don't like most of the ones I've seen online. It's possible that I'll design my own out of stainless steel and order from Front Panel Express since I don't need a damper. However, I do like some of the ones from Signature Hardware. For example, the Traditional solid brass wall register in brushed nickel.
My dishwasher will be here on Saturday. I'm not ready for it, so I need to get moving on the cabinet repair.
The existing veneered partical board on the sides of the sink cabinet is roughly .625" thick. It's set into a shallow dado cut in the front pieces. To use 3/4" plywood for new sides, I'll need to either buy a dado set for the table saw or buy a rabbetting bit for my router. I'm inclined to use my router since it'll yield a nicer joint, and I'm not sure I can easily get a dado insert for the table saw I've borrowed. It looks like I need to rebuild the entire cabinet under the sink except the face, including the back. That means the sink and all of the plumbing needs to come out, unless I want to get creative attaching the back of the cabinet. I'm not averse to being creative here, given that taking the sink out will be a lot of work and risks damage to the laminate countertop. A couple of 1x2's or aluminum angle could be used to hold it to the sides of the cabinet on the inside of the cabinet. Or a dado joint, but I'm not inclined to glue the back in place since it'd make it hard to remove if ever needed.
Note that there was no dishwasher when I bought the house; it's just an empty space where a built-in dishwasher once lived.
I also need to build the floor of the undersink cabinet. The previous owner ripped out the floor, presumably because it was severely water damaged. The original floor was simply stapled to the sides and rear of the cabinet, and it appears it was quite thin (less than 1/2"). My intent is to use 3/4" plywood here, with solid oak pieces around the entire perimeter to support the floor. They will need to be thoroughly sealed.
It's worth noting that the space between the undersink cabinet floor and the subfloor is used as ductwork for HVAC; there's a small vent in the toe plate at the front of the cabinet. Because there is currently no cabinet floor, HVAC is going throughout the cabinet. When I rebuild this part of the cabinet and floor, I'll want to seal it effectively to prevent HVAC air from entering the cabinet. Hot air hitting cold pipes is a recipe for condensation.
The undersink cabinet floor was approximately 35" wide. That's somewhat of a guess on my part since the floor is gone and the sides are warped/buckled. In all likelihood, I'll have to wait until the dishwasher is here before I can finalize the cabinet rebuild plan. All I know at the moment is that none of my pieces will be MDF, unlike the current cabinetry. MDF fails miserably when exposed to moisture.
I also did a little bit of carpet cleaning on the second floor hallway, and did som moe cleaning of a spot in bedroom 1.
I installed a Lutron MACL-153M-WH for the cove light. I installed a Utilitech LR16DMLED 40W-equivalent LED bulb in the recessed fixture. I was hoping to fit an R20 bulb in here for a little bit more light, but it wouldn't fit.
I installed a Lutron MACL-153M-WH for the light over the kitchen sink. I installed a Utilitech LR16DMLED in the fixture. Like the light over the cove, I was hoping to fit an R20 bulb here to get a bit more light, but it wouldn't fit.
I wish I had looked at the wiring for the outdoor corner garage light switch in the kitchen before I bought the switch. The Lutron CA-3PS-WH won't work because I need a 4-way switch. So I bought a Pass & Seymour 4-way switch at Lowe's to get me by for now. Ultimately I'd like a Lutron CA-4PSH-WH.
I tried to install a Baldwin 4741.150.CD wall plate near the sink, but I broke two of the nickel colored screws due to conflict with the backsplash. This was after cutting away some of the tile with my Dremel. I cut more of the tile away, and bought a 10-pack of screws at Lowe's. I was then able to install the wall plate.
I installed a Lutron Maestro MACL-153MH-WH digital dimmer for the three recessed lights on the front porch.
I installed an old Lutron Maestro MA-600 dimmer for the single exterior light fixture next to the front door. This is the dimmer I removed from the middle bedroom. It's not a perfect match to current Lutron Maestro dimmers, but it's very close.
I am getting close to having all of the living space light switches and fan controls replaced. I need a simple 3-way rocker switch to replace the switch near the door to the back porch, a simple single-pole rocker for the garbage disposal, a pair of MACL-153MH-WH to replace the switches for the 3" recessed lights in the kitchen, a two-location fan control setup for the master bedroom, an MACL-153MH-WH for the master bedroom closet, an Insteon 2477D for the master bathroom, an MIR-600THW for the master bathroom, an MACL-153MH-WH for the porch off of the master bedroom, an MSCL-OP153M-WH for the full bathroom and an Insteon 2477D for the full bathroom. In total, that's 13 controls. It may seem like a lot, but I've already replaced 35 controls in the living space with Lutron Maestro controls. That means I'm almost 75% done. Of course, there are some minor changes I'd like to make... I want to replace the occupancy-sensing switch by the thermostat with an occupancy-sensing dimmer. And in the long run I'll probably replace the dimmers that control porch lighting with Insteon dimmers so I can set them to turn on from an external motion sensor.
I still need to replace the remaining CFL bulb in the den with a Cree BR30 2700K LED bulb.
I also picked up a Leviton R12-X7592-00W guidelight GFCI outlet for this room. It is now installed, and I like it a lot. While I'm not a big fan of tamper-resistant outlets, it is VERY convenient to have a nightlight built into the outlet so I don't have to consume an outlet with a discrete nightlight. And it has a light sensor so it's only lit when it's dark. I will be using more of these or similar.
I replaced the PAR30 incandescent bulb over the door to the garage with a Cree BR30 2700K LED bulb.
I replaced the Cree LED bulbs in the island light with Cree TW series LED bulbs. I like the higher CRI of the TW bulbs. One thing I don't like: they don't cooperate terribly well with the Lutron dimmers. They work, but if they've been off for a while and then the dimmer is activated, the bulbs flash briefly, then a second later the dimmer ramps them up.
I installed a Lutron Maestro MACL-153M-WH digital dimmer for the back porch area recessed lighting.
I installed a Baldwin satin nickel triple-gang switch plate for the switches on the wall between the dining room and the family room, and another next to the door to the back yard. I have a 4-gang to install on the tile backsplash to complete the dimmer installation.
I also bought some LED candelabra bulbs at Home Depot to use in the ceiling fan's light kit.
I removed the old ceiling fan. I installed a new matchin 24" downrod on the new fan motor and installed it and wired it with the remote receiver for the Lutron MIR-LFQMT hidden in the canopy. I then removed the shipping blocks from the fan motor, and assembled and installed the fan blades. Finally, I installed the light kit, the glass shades and the new LED light bulbs. The fan works well and I like it much more than the one it replaced.
I buttoned up the 4-gang switch box in the family room with a Baldwin 4742.150.CD satin nickel wall plate. It now has two Lutron Maestro IR dimmers (for the recessed lighting and the wall sconce), a Lutron Maestro MIR-LFQMT IR dimmer and fan control for the ceiling fan and a Lutron Maestro MA-S8AM for the upper outlet in the receptacle near the stairs. It looks nice and provides all of the functionality I want.
Today I was reminded of a question that came up on houzz.com when I was looking for ceiling fan ideas. A homeowner asked if ceiling fans were "design suicide", I agreed with the designer's reply: "Design suicide? What could be worse than sweating in your own home? The designers who tell you otherwise place appearance before comfort and that's not good design, that's vanity." The discussion went on to mention that there are many stunning looking ceiling fans these days, and ones with DC motors are starting to appear. The DC fans are VERY efficient, silent, have 6 or more speeds, and can be reversed from a remote control instead of needing to flip a switch on the fan housing. My next ceiling fan will likely be one with a DC motor.
I installed one of the Baldwin satin nickel switch plates over the volume control in the kitchen.
I installed the Cree 2700K BR30 LED bulb in the last spot in the 2nd floor hallway. So nice to be rid of the slow-to-brighten CCFL bulbs, and to know I won't need to change the bulbs again for a VERY long time.
I installed one of the single-gang Baldwin wall plates, over the audio volume control in the family room (which will likely be removed at some point). It's not quite as nice as the Amerelle Madison plates, but I like it nonetheless. Despite Baldwin's advertising touting their American roots, the plates are made in China and hence the price isn't justified. The base price isn't much higher than the Amerelle Madison plates, but they're not available with free shipping like the Amerelle plates were. Hence they're $5 more per plate, which is expensive.
I installed the Lutron Meastro MA-S8AM-WH and MA-AS-WH switches in the family room to replace the toggle switches that control one of the outlets in the receptacle near the stairs. It was more work than expected due to the 4-gang switch box in the family room being shallow. I needed to add a neutral wire connection, so I had to remove all of the other dimmers to add a connection to the neutral wire bundle.
I installed Lutron MIR-600THW dimmers in the family room for the sconce and recessed lights. They have IR receivers and can hence be controlled by a remote. Remotes are included, but eventually I'll opt for a new learning remote or a piece of hardware that lets my iPhone act as a remote.
Since my long-term intent is to finish the basement and have the theater room there, I will eventually go much sparser in the family room: a flat screen 1080p LCD on the wall, in-wall speakers, and a small subwoofer. My only components will be a cable TV box, a small receiver, an Apple TV and a BluRay player.
I fixed the new RG6 cable to the ceiling in the basement.
I need a Leviton 47693-16P to clean up the RG6 cabling in the basement. The previous owner had 5 or 6 splitters strung together in a huge mess, just dangling from the ceiling. They're all disconnected at the moment since I intend to pull all of the RG6 cables into my structured wiring enclosure and plug them in to a Leviton 47693-16P.
I ordered two MRB-4 relay boards to isolate the Nest from my HVAC system. One to use, One as a spare. They appear to have snubber circuitry on the coils, but it doesn't say so in the brochure and the picture is too small to be certain. I will likely add a TVS for each relay coil if there doesn't appear to be protection from back-EMF built into the MRB-4. I'll use Panasonic ERZ-V20D470 or EPCOS S20K30AUTO or Bourns MOV-20D470K. They're all 20mm radial discs, which is large but I want to be fairly certain that I use ones that can absorb the energy from coil de-energization again and again for as long as I have the Nest thermostat. The Panasonic is rated for 34 Joules, the EPCOS for 26 Joules and the Bournes for 33 Joules.
I popped the Nest off of the wall, and my blower continued to run. That indicated a short of some kind to the fan wire (green). It turns out that Nest decided to use FETs instead of relays, and they're in the base plate. And the design is not robust enough for a typical HVAC installation; many people have had problems with the FETs frying, leaving their fan or compressor on full-time. I'm thankful that in my case, it was the fan. The base plate was warm near the fan wire, which explains why my temperature seemed to be a little off (high) the last couple of months.
Nest hasn't said much publically about this issue, which sucks IMHO. Their support forum indicates that some "beta testers" got some modified base plates to protect for overvoltage, but Nest won't tell me if the new base plate they're sending to me is any different than the one that fried. Which leaves me thinking it's not, and I'll have a ticking bomb waiting to damage my air conditioning compressor by running it at 100 percent duty cycle for a full day (or longer if I'm not in town). I will of course compare the two when the new base arrives, but I like the thermostat and want to make sure this doesn't happen again. Some people have been through more than one base plate with no resolution.
I intend to isolate the Nest using a relay board, and I'll probably put transient protection across the furnace transformer outputs. MOVs are probably sufficient, say S20K30AUTO.
I also like the Pilot 60 in. and 52 in. Brushed Nickel Ceiling Fan, but its reversing switch is manual and it's not Energy Star rated.
I bought some mole traps at Home Depot.
I installed a Cree BR30 5000K LED bulb in one of the three recessed fixtures behind the dining room where a deck should be. All three bulbs had burned out, which made for more difficulty in figuring out my wall switch mysteries. I've identified the wall switch now, and bought two more Cree BR30 5000K LED bulbs to replace the remaining burned out bulbs. I noticed that Home Depot now carries the Cree PAR38 flood and spot lights, which are rated for wet locations. I will probably use them for something outside at some point. they're only available in 3000K color temperature, but they're 1500 lumens.
I installed the two additional Cree BR30 5000K LED bulbs, so now the covered area behind the dining room has good lighting.
I removed the main wall plate in the family room to identify the circuits (single-pole versus multi-location). The working light circuits (wall sconce and eyeballs) are both single-pole. The mystery switch... I'm assuming it is wired to the ceiling fan box for a light kit. The existing ceiling fan doesn't have a light kit.
I put Cree TW series LED bulbs in the new ceiling fan. They're a bit odd looking when off due to the blue tint to their glass, but when on they are very nice. With a CRI of 93, they render colors nicely. I wish Cree would make some BR30 bulbs with a CRI this high.
I installed an inexpensive brushed steel 3-light fixture over the island to replace the sagging brass 2-light fixture. I'd prefer pendants, but I haven't found ones I like in my current price range. This is a low-grade fixture, but it'll work for now. My main complaint about the old one was that it hung too low, and since it was on only a couple of inches of chain, couldn't be raised enough. It also was always moving out of position since it had a single chain. The new fixture doesn't have these problems.
I cut some of the vines that were strangling trees on the east edge of the lot. Some of them are too big to but with my loppers, I'll need to get those with the chainsaw next weekend.
I have been on my feet the entire day, starting with the parade this morning. My feet are very sore since my work boots are not comfortable enough for all-day work and I did a lot of stomping on branches to break them.
I sharpened my chainsaw's chain. The Harbor Freight chain saw sharpener is rickety but it works fine for my purposes. The saw cut through wood like a new blade after sharpening, and I think I removed less blade material than what Weingartz usually removes. And given the price of the Harbor Freight chain saw sharpener ($35), it will have paid for itself after the second sharpening.
I spent several hours torching dandelions and weeds in the driveways. The weed torch works fine, but given that it can blow itself out fairly easily, I'm glad I got the one with the piezo igniter.
I cleared more of the fallen tree messes on the west side of the driveway. I still have plenty to do here, but I made a decent dent in it. Many trips with the John Deere dump trailer full of wood. I have several more fallen trees to cut up, and I want to clear out the saplings in front of the rock near the fork in the driveway.
I replaced one of the four BR30 bulbs with a Cree LED BR30, 2700K temperature. I will eventually replaced the three remaining bulbs with the same.
I installed Amerelle Madison nickel-plated brass wall plates on the three dimmers I installed tonight. I also installed one on the occupancy switch near the Nest thermostat. I have two single-gang rocker plates left, which I'll use in the middle upstairs bedroom.
Nice to finally be able to have a 50 Mbit/sec service at the new house. Now if I can just get them to bury the cable from the new cable head to the house... it's been sitting on top of my lawn for many months.
I also received a pair of Maglite D-cell mounting brackets so I can mount a flashlight too.
I started filling the hole from the septic pipe repair. It seems that my rakes are MIA form the move, so I'll need to buy more. I could use a hoe as well.
I ordered another fire extinguisher mounting bracket from Amazon, along with another pair of Maglite D-cell mounting brackets. The next fire extiniguisher will be mounted at the top of the stairwell from the interior of the house to the basement, and a Maglite 2D Pro flashlight will be mounted there as well.
I removed the masking tape from the window.
I laid out some 18" vinyl floor tiles on the cove sill. Five tiles will do the job exactly. However, I'm still considering porcelain tile since it would withstand abuse better. It's not like it would cost a fortune to do such a small space... $40 for the tile, and probably around $25 for epoxy grout.
One of the dead ash trees in the center of the yard came down in the high winds last night. I didn't see it when I came home last night and cleared the two trees that had fallen across my driveway. I cut it up with the chainsaw and burned the small stuff. I also removed two rotted stumps from the front yard, and removed several of the wood piles left by the previous owner.
I had to wheelbarrow all of this stuff to the back yard where the fire pit is located. I'm sore and physically exhausted, this being the first real physical labor of the year. I have a ton more of this kind of work in the next month; the yard was quite a mess when I bought the house and I didn't have time to deal with it last summer since I had to remodel the laundry room. There are the trees that have fallen across the driveway since, much of which still needs to be cleaned up (it's all off the driveway, but it's a mess in the woods). There are two ash tree stumps to remove in the front yard, and a dead ash tree that needs to come down. The whole yard needs to be raked of twigs and the like, and I need to fill the holes left by the stumps and put down grass seed and fertilizer.
Two trees came down across my driveway late in the evening. We had 55 mph winds, the two trees were dead ash trees. I had to cut the parts that were across the driveway with my chainsaw, in the dark and in the rain. It was fast and easy, just not something I had foreseen. I knew we had thunderstorms in the forecast, but not 55 mph winds.
Tomorrow I'll paint the bit of drywall in the window cove, and put the first coat of paint on the window and trim. The window itself will get Rust-Oleum door paint, since it's very durable and easy to clean. The surround trim will get Olympic ICON semi-gloss to match the other trim in the garage.
This window cove was a mess. Not sure what the previous owner did in this area, but there were greasy handprints on the trim almost to the ceiling. Many dark scuff marks everywhere. And a lot of dead mildew on the lower parts, probably form the windows being left open in the rain too many times. The sill, which is just painted plywood, is heavily stained. I'll be putting porcelain tile on the sill, with epoxy grout. I haven't decided how I'm going to adhere it yet. Thinset with polymer additive is the obvious answer, but there's probably no reason I couldn't use Loctite PL Premium 8X.
After a trip to Lowe's, I put the first coat of Rust-Oleum Door Paint on the inside of the door the back yard. I later applied a second coat. It's not perfect, but that wasn't my objective; I just wanted a cleanable surface (satin paint) versus the very scuffed flat paint that was on it before.
I put two coats of Olympic ICON semigloss on the trim around this door. More work needs to be done here; on one side, there was never any paint on the portion between the foundation and the door. That will need a good primer (probably Zinsser B-I-N) before painting.
I then reorganized the items on this wall a bit to accomodate my grain shovel, push broom and furniture dolly that I use for the tractor's snowthrower attachment.
I used my new iPhone holder on the wall of the garage tonight. It works well.
I glued one of my homemade iPhone holders to the wall above one of my tool cabinets. It should work fine for my purposes. Gravity will keep it in the mount while it's plugged in to one of the USB charging ports in the nearby AC outlet. It's at a somewhat odd angle, but that was intentional. It's easy to get the iPhone in and out of the mount, but it shouldn't fall out.
I washed the houseward side of the door to the basement, in preparation for painting. I'm going to put a piece of pegboard on this side of the door, which will likely hold more can racks. Unfortunately, Racor no longer makes the racks I have now. Griot's has the same design, but they want $25 each. That's about 4X what I paid for the racks I have now. Rockler has the same design for $20.99. The Allstar Performance ALL12200 holds six cans instead of 5, which would be nice. $28.99 at Amazon. But at these prices, it's pretty tempting to make my own. I can get a 10' long piece of 4" base, 1.125" legs FRP U-channel from McMaster-Carr for $68. Or I could just make one out of plywood and pine. I could borrow the design of the Pitpal one to achieve high density storage: PIT-V99
I cut and framed two pieces of FRP today. One is going behind the filter and regulator between the garage doors. I still need to cut the hole in this one for the electrical outlet. The second one is larger, and will be installed on the wall in the stairwell from the garage to the basement. I intend to hang my mops on this wall, and I want to be able to hang them wet without damaging the wall. They don't drip after wrung out, but they will be damp. Of course I still need to tile the sill at the bottom of that wall.
I installed the obstruction detectors on the north garage door. I put them at about the level of the M Roadster's bumper, since I've seen cases where a car has been hit by a closing garage door due to the beam going under the rear bumper.
I started to install the obstruction detectors on the south garage door. The one near the center of the garage is installed. I needed to spray some Great Stuff on the other side of the door, so I'm waiting for it to dry before installing the detector on that side. I also fixed the door seal on that side of the garage, whose bottm had curled away from the trim. I just put a few 1-5/8" deck screws in it to keep it in place until I install new seals.
I broke up the old piece of unfinished pegboard that I removed from the wall a very long time ago, and put it in a box for trash collection.
I'm going to do some more cleanup tonight and possibly get to work painting the window cove and trim. I need to move some full sheets of slatwall to the basement, which won't be easy alone. Given that I don't currently have plans for these sheets, I may cut them down to 4' x 4' before moving them.
I cut a piece of FRP to 34" x 22.5" to install on the wall between the garage doors. This piece will be placed at the bottom of the wall to protect the drywall from dings and moisture. I drilled two holes in it for the wires to my garage door opener obstruction detectors. I cut trim pieces for the top and side edges, and pre-glued them to the FRP just ot make the installation easier. I'll be installing this pieces with 3M 90 spray adhesive, so there won't be any time for shifting it around and fussing with the edge trim.
I sprayed some Great Stuff Pest Blocker expanding foam between the edge of the drywall and the concrete floor. There was a 3/4" gap there, and the fiberglass insulation in the wall doesn't meet the concrete. The foam should help prevent drafts and help keep insects out of the garage. When it dries, I'll trim it flush before installing the FRP. Of course, I still have other areas to foam and caulk, namely between the cinder blocks and sill plates. In the summer I intend to install all new garage door seals and Green Hinges. I also want brush-type garage door seals.
I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to 16.5" x 48" to mount on the east wall next to the ProSlat. This is where I will be mounting the Kidde Pro 340 and some flashlights. I routed the edges of the plywood and put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on it. I later put a coat of Olympic ICON semigloss on it, and mounted it to the wall. I put the first coat of spackling on the screw heads to hide them. I'll sand tomorrow and put another coat of paint on it before mounting the extinguisher and flashlights.
I installed a piece of GearTrack up high in the southwest corner of the garage and my 2' stepladder is now hung there.
I installed the pegboard to the south of the ProSlat on the east wall.
I picked up a Kidde Pro 340 fire extinguisher at Home Depot. I also bought some 2" long panhead screws to install more ProSlat.
The crossbeam adapter for my floor jack is now mounted above the door to the basement with a section of FastTrack.
I did a bit of cleaning up, but I have a lot more to do.
I cut five ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelf standards to 29.25" in length and then installed them above the ProSlat on the wall shared with the laundry room. I then installed ten brackets and two shelves. No idea what I'll be putting on these shelves, but I wanted to stop hemming and hawing about what to do with this space. The lowest shelf is high enough to never be an issue for someone walking under it unless they're an NBA center.
Tomorrow I will finish the air tool rack on the south end of the garage and start the rack for the north end of the garage. I will also be doing some cleanup and install some more of the ProSlat and GearTrack. I also need to pick up a Kidde Pro 340 fire extinguisher at Home Depot and install it.
I ordered a metal mounting bracket for the Kidde Pro 340, a Maglite flashlight mounting set, and some ProSlat double 8-inch locking hooks from Amazon.
I installed 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barbed fittings in all of the automatic drains at the filter/regulator drops. I then attached some 3/8" ID, 9/16" OD PVC tubing with hose clamps. This is probably temporary, but for now it will keep any drain water off of the walls and sill plates.
I started creating the air tool rack support for the south end of the garage.
I put two coats of Olympic ICON semigloss on the support for the filter and regulator at the south end of the garage.
I created the supports for the drains at the north and south ends of the garage. I also created the support for the drain at the input from the compressor; that one is a 1x4 oak piece with a 1x3 oak piece on top. All of these pieces now have a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on them.
I cut, routed and glued some 1x2 pieces to support the filter and regulator on the south side of the garage. I didn't use a 2x2 because I need to bend the support very slightly since it's going over the edge of the FRP trim. I glued a piece of 1/4" thick plywood on the back of the 1x2 where it transitions to the wall, just to avoid crushing and cracking the FRP trim. It's all clamped and drying now.
I ordered some more silicone-cushioned pipe clamps from McMaster-Carr. P/N 3225T67 are for the 3/4" pipe, P/N 3225T65 are for the 1/2" pipe. I also ordered some brass 1/8" NPT to barbed fittings for 3/8" ID hose (P/N 5346K17). For now I'll be putting these on the automatic drains and using flexible hose to run into catch bottles. I ordered some worm drive hose clamps (P/N 5415K11) to hold the hose on the barbed fittings, but I probably won't really need them. There's not a ton of pressure involved when the drains open, and with 3/8" ID hose fed by a 1/8" NPT fitting, there would be a pressure drop even if there was something on the other end of the hose. I think I have some 3/8" ID clear hose in my PC watercooling supplies.
I finished mounting the second air tool rack between the garage doors. I'm done with the air supply in this area but for deciding what to do with the output of the automatic drain and fastening the 1/2" piping on the output of the regulator.
I would have done more, but I was sidetracked by light switch work in the master bedroom.
I am planning to intall an H3R HalGuard fire extinguisher on the wall next to the center air drop. Probably an HG250B (black) or HG250C (chrome). I don't really care much how it looks, I just want it to be a color other than red since I intend to also install a dry chemical extinguisher that will most likely be red. I don't like using dry chemical extinguishers on cars since they leave a corrosive mess, but it's good to have one when needed. I'm more interested in saving lives and the house than an engine bay. The halotron extinguisher would be my first grab for a minor engine bay fire. A primary extinguisher should be rated at least 2-A:10-B:C, and the Kidde Pro 340 would fit the bill.
It took me hours to complete this work due to an unlabelled or color coded 4-way switch on the wall and trouble with the wall plate and el-cheapo fan switch near the bed. It also doesn't help that the original contractor used drywall screws to mount switches, ruining the threads in the switch boxes for normal switch mounting screws.
I'm going to create another air tool rack mounting board below the filter and regulator between the garage doors.
I went to Home Depot for some more items to finish my air supply work. Some 2x2's, some copper pipe straps and some more 3.5" long #10 torx head construction screws. I also bought another Lutron Maestro occupancy-sensing dimmer and two companion dimmers for the master bedroom, since they had the companion dimmers in stock (very rare at my nearby stores).
The first air tool rack is mounted. I like it.
I secured the input of the air plumbing using two pieces of oak (routed, sanded, primed and painted) and a silicone-cushioned pipe strap.
I secured the plumbing above the center filter and regulator with some pine 1x2's (primed and painted).
I cut, primed and painted the 2x2 mounting pieces for the second air tool rack. I cut, routed and sanded the piece of plywood for the second air tool rack. I cut, routed, sanded, glued and primed pieces of 1x2 to support the center air drop's automatic drain. I put a coat of primer on the plywood for the second air tool rack.
I mounted the support 2x2 pieces for the second air tool rack, above the center automatic drain.
Tomorrow I should be able to wrap up the second air tool rack installation and secure the center drain.
After much internal debate, I decided how to mount a piece of oak plywood above the air filter and regulator between the garage doors. I want a board here so I can mount one of my air tool racks on it to hang the common air tools: blow guns and tire inflator with gauge. I will be hanging another rack in a similar manner below the filter and regulator but above the automatic drain. That one will hold things like die grinder, ratchets, or whatever I happen to be using on a given project.
Since the air piping is 1.5" from the wall and is 7/8" in diameter, I used stacked pieces of 1.5"x1.5" select pine to space the board 3" out from the wall as to not interfere with the piping. I mounted the first pair to the studs using 3.5" long screws that I countersunk, then mounted the second set to those using 2.5" long countersunk deck screws. The board itself is 18" tall by 24" wide, 3/4" thick oak plywood. I ran a 1/4" roundoff bit around the edges that will face the garage, just to help prevent chipping. I sanded it lightly and applied a coat of Zinsser B-I-N to the back. When it dried, I applied a coat on the front and edges. It will later get Olympic ICON white semigloss paint. I'll mount the air tool rack on it before mounting the plywood to the pine standoffs that are already on the wall.
I need to order more pipe mounting straps from McMaster-Carr so I can finish strapping the air piping in place.
I did the same with a 31.675" long piece of 3/4" type L copper pipe for the drain for the center filter and regulator. I want this one a little lower because I intend to place some panels in this area to install air tool racks and I don't want the drain to be in the way of the bottom panel.
I fabricated a similar setup for the Norgren automatic drain at the input leg from the compressor. I need to fabricate one for the remaining Parker 06D1NA at the north drip leg. I will then have automatic drains at each leg, and should have water-free air at every location. I'll need something more elaborate for a blast cabinet or any serious painting, but for now the drains and drip legs are sufficient.
I created a short piece of 1/2" copper to feed the north hose reel and connected it.
All three air hose reels are now mounted and functional. I still need to connect the automatic drains and decide whether or not I'm going to exhaust them outdoors. I also need to install supports for the filters and regulators.
I'm good to go on finishing the remaining air supply work: install some supports for the filters and regulators, install the third hose reel, install the couplers in the manifolds for the remaining two hose reels, and install the lead hoses to the remaining two hose reels.
I put a second thin coat of Olympic ICON semigloss on the 1x2 pieces I intend to use to support the piping on the south wall.
I suspended the pipe near the ceiling on the south wall, just to make sure it's the correct length. It looks OK.
I attached some of the output piping on the regulator in the northwest corner: the tee, the short downpipe with a ball valve, and the short upward pipe with the manifold.
I removed my old filter and regulator from the temporary black iron setup, as well as my old 4-port manifold. I then assembled the output for the southwest corner of the garage, and installed the input valves, filter, regulator, output ball valve and my old manifold on the drop there. Now all three drops have filter, regulator, ball valves and manifolds.
If it was not going to snow tomorrow, I'd say I could finish things up tomorrow night and pressurize the system to check for leaks. Unfortunately it looks like we're going to get a lot of snow, which means I'll be preparing to clear snow and installing the new snow tires on the MINI.
I soldered together another 3/4" feed and drain valve setup: a 3/4" ball valve followed by a 3/4" x 1/2" c 3/4" tee. Out of the 1/2" part of the tee is a very short piece of 1/2" pipe with a female threaded connection that will connect to a filter. Out of the 3/4" leg of the tee is a short pipe of copper, a 3/4" threaded fitting and a 3/4" ball valve. Out of this ball valve I will connect more 3/4" pipe, a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and a Parker automatic drain.
I connected the filter and regulator to the center drop.
I connected the filter and regulator the north drop.
I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on a couple of 1x2 pieces of pine to use as supports for my pipe hangers near the ceiling on the south wall. I later put the first coat of Olympic ICON semi-gloss on these pieces.
I installed a 45-degree brass elbow on the center hose reel. It's not really necessary on this reel, but it's also harmless.
I soldered together the piece that will run along the ceiling on the south wall. The union on one end, a coupler in the middle, then a 90-degree elbow, a short piece of pipe and a female threaded adapter. The threaded adapter will let me put the input together piecewise, and I can then tighten the union at the southwest corner.
I have some more 1/2" work to do for the south drop. I also need to decide what I want to do for input at the compressor. I don't need a manifold or output here, but it would be wise to have a drain. In other words, I should pipe in my old Norgren drain here.
I need to take stock of my various connectors to figure out if I have enough to complete my work. I have the connectors to do the input in the manner I would like (a 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4" tee), but I think I need more 3/4" solder to 1/2" NPT adapters for my drains.
I mounted the main mounting board for the air hose reel at the north end of the garage. I used 3.5" long Spax lag screws with stainless steel large diameter washers to prevent crushing the plywood. I need to figure out where on this board I will mount the secondary board that has the carriage bolts to hold the hose reel. I need to leave room for the 45-degree adapter and lead hose.
My plan for the space above the door to the basement: two strips of GearTrack. One will hold my floor jack's crossbeam adapter, the other will likely hold my moving dolly or Festool carts.
I removed the hose reel from my old cart and then traced its mounting hole pattern o a piece of 3/4" plywood. I drilled the holes for the M8 carriage bolts, countersinking the heads. I cut this piece to size, and then cut the larger piece of plywood to which it will be mounted. I put two coats of Zinsser B-I-N on these pieces. Why two coats of primer? Over the years I've learned that when priming wood for a light colored paint, two coats of primer (letting the first one cure before the second coat) is a good idea. It greatly decreases the odds of wood tanins staining the final coat. I consider it cheap insurance.
I later put two coats of Olympic ICON exterior semi-gloss on these pieces. This is different than what I had done for the other two hose reel mounts, where I painted them after installation and used the same paint as the ceiling. Painting these pieces on the ground is much easier, and the semi-gloss will be easier to clean if needed. They're now ready to be screwed together and mounted on the ceiling.
I put the second coat of Olympic ICON semi-gloss on the protective piece of oak for the bottom of the laundry room overhang. When it dries, it will be ready for installation. I will of course be touching it up after installation, but it's nice to have it mostly painted before installation. I expect this piece to get a little abuse, since I'll probably store some things under the overhang. At the moment my intent is to build a pair of shallow roll-out boxes to go under the overhang. These would be a good place to store things like body tools, hammers, chisels, files and shop supplies like paper towels.
I need to think about where I'm going to store my jack's crossbeam adapter. It weighs around 25 lbs, so I can certainly hang it on ProSlat, Gladiator GearTrack or Gearwall, or Rubbermaid FastTrack. I don't use it very often, do I have room at the top of the Gearwall by the door to the basement?
I need to make some progress on my air supply setup so I can ditch the carts in the garage as well as the black iron piping and filter/regulator/drain that's hanging in an awkward place on the south wall. Tomorrow I should be able to mount the pieces for the third air hose reel, mount the guard for the bottom of the laundry room overhang, and do a little air plumbing work.
I keep forgetting that I need to leave room in the garage to stash my sliding compound mitre saw and a Bosch 4100-09 table saw. Hence I think I should not put another piece of pegboard in the southeast corner, and I should use a 48" long bench there instead of a 60" long bench. Or buy another Vika Twofold?
I installed a piece of GearTrack on the south wall of the laundry room overhang, near the ceiling. I installed a short piece between the new shelving and the wall, from which I'll probably hang my axe. I installed one of my framed 2'x4' pieces of white pegboard below the GearTrack on the south wall of the laundry room overhang. I then installed the 4' shop light on the underside of the lowest shelf in this corner. This corner is now ready for a bench and probably one more piece of stainless steel pegboard.
I am preparing some more pegboard for the stairwell to the basement. I primed the wood of a framed 2' x 4' piece of pegboard. I went to Lowe's and bought 13 poplar 1x2 pieces, an 8' long 1x3 piece of oak to protect the laundry room overhang at the bottom, a 6' long 1x3 piece of oak to mount another power strip, some cheap 2" paint brushes, five more ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelf brackets, another 6' ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelf, and a 3/4" brass union that I think I can use to help make my air piping easier to finish.
I framed two more pieces of 2' x 4' pegboard, and then primed the back of them with Zinsser B-I-N to help prevent deterioration from moisture. While I really like the look of the stainless steel pegboard from diamondlifegear.com that I've used elsewhere, I like the flexibility of having pieces of regular pegboard that I can cut to size and frame as desired.
I cut a piece of 1"x3" oak to 45" to make a mount for a power strip in the southeast corner. I ran a roundoff bit around the edges and sanded it, then put 2 coats of Zinsser B-I-N on the back (that will be in contact with the wall). I'll prime the front tomorrow and mount it to the wall.
I cut another piece of 1"x3" oak to 95.5" to serve as protection for the bottom edge of the drywall on the laundry rooom overhang. I ran a roundff bit on the edges of the piece too, sanded it, and put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the back. I'll prime the front and install this piece tomorrow.
I finally spent some time to find the studs in the south side of the laundry room abutment. I can now install whatever I'd like there. I'm leaving toward another stainless steel pegboard at the same height as those on the southeast wall, and some GearTrack above it. I'd also like a third piece of stainless steel pegboard on the southeast wall, next to the two pieces I installed recently.
I replaced the dedicated single outlet for central vacuum with a duplex GFCI outlet. I'm not a fan of central vacuums and hence don't intend to install one. A GFCI outlet here is much more useful to me.
I improved my Gladiator Clean-Up Racks. for each one, I cut a piece of 3/4" PVC pipe to 26.2cm and a 1/4"-20 316 stainless steel threaded rod to 29.0cm. I installed a 1.5" diameter black threaded ball on one end of the stainless steel rod using Loctite blue thread locker. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the center of each of the paper towel holder nubs on the Gladiator Clean-Up Rack.
The PVC gets dropped into the new paper towel roll when replacing a roll, then placed in the Clean-Up Rack. The stainless steel rod then gets run through, and I screw on a 1.5" diameter red threaded ball on the other end (no Loctite). It works perfectly, and the total cost to do two of them was $14.18 plus the PVC pipe (cheap, but I don't have a price since I had some 2' pieces on hand). So $7.09 to resolve the issue that has drawn complaints from reviewers (the paper towel roll can come out of the holder too easily).
I installed the remaining two pieces of stainless steel pegboard below the shelves in the southeast corner. A rolling bench will later be installed below the pegboard.
The stainless steel threaded rod, threaded ball ends and UHMW tube to improve the Gladiator Clean-Up Racks arrived from McMaster-Carr. Unfortunately, the UHMW dimensional tolerance is terrible; I should have looked at the numbers before ordering. The inner diameter is MUCH smaller than .25" and hence I can't easily use it. Looking at the tolerance listing, it says +/- .17". Yikes! For now I'll use some 3/4" schedule 40 PVC I have on hand.
I started executing a plan for the southeast corner of the garage. I installed three ClosetMaid Maximum Load standards after cutting them to 34" length and drilling an additional hole in each one. I then installed a single 4' shelf. I need a second 4' long shelf to go above it. I will be hanging a 4' long quad T8 light from the bottom shelf, and installing my remaining two stainless steel pegboards on the wall under the shelves. This area is where I intend to put a rolling bench of some sort. I like the WB253975BTN from globalindustrial.com; the height is fixed, but it has 2" square 14 gauge tubular steel construction with a weight capacity of 2000 pounds. It also has a power apron with 3 15A duplex outlets.
I cleaned up a litle bit, but still have a lot more picking up to do. I did not get to the installation of the ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelving, mostly due to debating what I want to do with the remainder of the wall shared with the laundry room. There's a lot of empty wall space above the ProSlat. Originally I was going to install shelves there, but now I'm considering more ProSlat. It's not as if I'm short on shelving, especially if I put some in the southeast corner. Of course I could just install GearTrack, which gives me the option of using Gladiator shelves.
The set of three ProSlat baskets arrived from Amazon. I now have 5 of them, and they will be handy for holding various cans of cleaning chemicals. I still need some of the ProSlat hooks, but will buy those later. I would like some of the 4" locking double hooks for axe, sledges, drilling hammer, etc.
I finished installing a ProSlat kit on the south wall. I also installed a GearTrack and the Gladiator Clean-Up racks on this GearTrack. I now have 6 paper towel holders in the garage, and might install two more. It might seem like overkill, but I don't like to have to walk too far to get paper towels when I spill something.
Tomorrow I will try to install the remaining ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelving I have on hand, and do some shuffling and cleaning. I want to get going on the remaining work on the air lines and third air hose reel.
I need some more Sterilite Stackers from Walmart. I need a 7.5 gallon for cargo and tow straps, a 7.5 gallon for masking and duct tape, a 7.5 gallon for light bulbs, a 4 gallon for electrical outlets/switches/wallplates/etc., a 4 gallon for low voltage rework boxes and plates, and a 7.5 gallon for Romex wire.
I started the installation of the ProSlat on the south wall. I got five of the ten slats installed, including the two trickiest ones that required cutting for the AC outlet on that wall. The remainder will be easy in comparison; the initial layout and measurements and the cutting of the two pieces for the outlet were far and away the most difficult parts.
I decided against running the ProSlat over the 240V outlet, since I will probably later want to add another 240V outlet on that wall. I also decided to not run past the 3-gang box for light switches, since it would make future door and trim replacement more difficult and leave the end of the ProSlat unsupported.
After much hemming and hawing, I decided on a layout for the ProSlat on the south wall. I marked the wall, including the stud locations. Unfortunately, ProSlat didn't include screws with my new kits.
I installed GearWall under my dock fan. 4' vertically, about 22" wide. This wasn't trivial due to several cuts to go around things, plus a cutout for an electrical outlet. I used an Arlington BE3 box extender to bring the outlet out to the surface of the GearWall, instead of having it recessed. This was necessary to accomodate 90-degree wall plugs, including the plug for the power strip that I installed in this area. I will likely be hanging my Bosch jobsite radio on this GearWall, though it's possible I will instead hang it on the south side of the garage. Speaking of which... I need a new battery for the remote control.
I caulked the corner protector in this area, but only on the wall part. I will do the cove part when I am ready to finish the cove. I did the wall part now because I'm preparing to install some GearWall here that will abut the corner protector. I don't want insects to be able to nest in the small gaps, especially mud wasps that are prevalent in this part of the country. I had some mud wasp nests in the flourescent lights that were originally installed on the ceiling.
Tomorrow I will install GearWall under the dock fan and work on the south wall ProSlat and/or the shelving I'm going to put in that area.
While I was at Lowe's, I checked out the Gladiator wire baskets. They're a little bit wider than the ProSlat ones, and could be handy in the areas where I have GearTrack and GearWall. I have found the ProSlat baskets to be incredibly handy for things like 1-gallon cans of mineral spirits, acetone, MEK, brush cleaner, denatured alcohol, etc. Due to the nice fit, they can't tip over in the baskets but they're still easy to get in and out of the baskets.
I ordered a 3-pack of the ProSlat baskets from Amazon. I also ordered some 12" pull chains for the shop lights, since I know the strings I have won't last. I also ordered a Gladiator Clean-Up Caddy, since the ProSlat one would take 2 to 4 weeks to arrive.
I installed the second cord reel. I now have matching cord reels behind the garage door openers.
I'm still in the process of figuring out how I'm going to utilize the ProSlat kits. The issue is the lack of trim pieces to do anything other than a rectangle per kit. I ordered additional trim pieces: 3 L-trim pieces and 6 J-trim pieces. Shipping was pricey since no one offers these except ProSlat themselves, and they're in Quebec. But now I can use up the trim pieces from both of the kits I have without worrying abut running out of trim; more is on the way. I think I will use one whole kit beneath the shelves on the south wall, perhaps minus one slat so I can put GearTrack at the top (to hang heavier items).
I think I'm going to use my remaining GearWall on the north wall under my dock fan. It will give me a place to hang a few more items and will cover the remaining drywall in that area (for protection).
I went to Sears right before closing and picked up another 2-pack of 4' long GearWall panels. These will be installed above the ones I previously installed near the door to the basement.
Tonight's agenda was pretty short: I sanded the window corner protectors and applied another round of spackling to cover the countersunk screws. I installed the 2 new pieces of GearWall, which allowed me to hang both of my rolling tool holders near the door to the basement, along with my halogen work light.
I want to do something about the ugliness created by my dock fan mount. Back when I mounted it, I didn't have plans for the corner guards. So the mounting boards for the dock fan are flush with the edge of the window cove. Hence I had to cut out a section of the corner protector on that side of the window.
I need to move the wood slatwall pieces to the basement or install them somewhere useful. They're in my way and taking up a lot of space.
I'm going to install two more pieces of GearWall in the area by the door to the basement. This will let me hang some items up high.
I did do one thing just so I wouldn't feel like a completely useless lump: I made a trip to Home Depot to pick up some things I need. Candelabra bulbs for the master bedroom ceiling fan, a Lutron Maestro companion dimmer (though I need more than one), some #6-32 screws to use with the Arlington box extenders, some 1/4" diameter 2&qout; long Spax lag screws, some 2.5" long cabinet screws, #10-24 locknuts to fix my cord reel, some 15" long by 1/2" wide Velcro One-Wrap straps, a pair of CE Tech USB to 40-in charging cables, a 3-pack of shop towel rolls and an 8-pack of Bounty select-a-size paper towels.
I repaired my first cord reel and installed it on the ceiling behind the north garage door opener using four Spax 1/4" diameter, 2" long lag screws. The matching reel I bought today will go behind the south garage door opener.
I finished assembling the corner protectors for the window. I had a little trouble with the first one, since I had forgotten that my impact driver will easily break wood screws when driving them into oak. I'll have to tweak that corner protector a bit once the glue sets up. Not a big deal since I fill all the countersunk screw holes during final installation.
I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the window corner protectors. I can install them soon. The one on the west side of the window will need to be shimmed; the drywall corner there has some curvature to it. I'll probably pre-install the shims using my straightedge and level.
I put a coat of polyurethane on the bottom of the new fold-down benchtop.
I marked and drilled three 3/16" diameter holes in the 1x4 oak piece I'm using as a mounting pad for a power strip near my dock fan. These holes are countersunk with a flat profile (using a Forstner bit). I then drilled 5/8" diameter holes in the wall for the toggle bolts, using the oak pad as a template. I put the 3/16" x 3" toggle bolts through the oak board, then put the toggles on. I then put a ring of Loctite PL Premium around the holes in the wall and a bead of it up and down each side of the back of the oak board. I installed the board on the wall and snugged it down. When the PL Premium dries, it will be very firm. It's primed, but I still need to paint it before attaching the power strip. I decided to reuse my old power strip because its color scheme matches my dock fan (yellow and black). I need the power strip in this area because I've got my dock fan, my neon BMW clock and a 4-tube T8 shoplight here. There's only a single gang outlet in this area, and three items that will always be plugged in. Then I'll need outlets for plugging in tools when I'm using the fold-down workbench.
I ran a 1/4" roundoff bit around the edges of the boards I'll be using as wall support for the fold-down bench. I then sanded them. They're poplar, so I'm just going to prime and paint them instead of using stain and polyurethane. They won't be very visible, but I want primer and paint on them to protect them and I rounded the edges in order to help prevent them from being chipped when I shove things under the bench. White paint will blend the boards into the wall. I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on these boards, then applied the first coat of Olympic ICON Exterior paint (white semigloss).
I put a coat of paint on the mounting pad for the power strip. It will need a second coat.
I later mounted the fold-down bench. The Knape & Vogt folding L-brackets are finicky alignment-wise, and hence it's not that easy to fold down the bench top. I'm not terribly bothered by the fussing required, since I don't expect to fold the bench up and down very often. Right now it's folded down.
I put paint on the spots I patched for the outlet installation above my tool cabinet. I then reinstalled the wall plate and put the tool cabinet back in place.
I created a shopping list for Home Depot and Lowe's for tomorrow.
I did a little bit more work on my fold-down workbench. I cut all of the edges of the sandwiched plywood square, then cut and attached select pine 1x2's to the edges with Gorilla wood glue and finish nails (using my finish nailer). I then ran a 1/4" roundoff bit on all of the edges and corners, and sanded the top and sides.
I started some repair work on the cord reel I bought months ago that had a broken guide roller right out of the box. I drilled a pair of holes in the sides and ran a 4" long #10-24 machine screw through it and put some nylon spacers on it. It should work, we'll see. However, what I really want are 1/4"-20 stainless, which I can get from McMaster-Carr.
I sealed the top of the fold-down workbench with a coat of polyurethane. I expect to put coin-pattern PVC on it later, but I wanted a sealing coat on it for now.
I cleared a path down the road, but I don't know if I can drive Oak Hill. Sigh, I wish I had bought a 4WD truck this year.
Evening... I did eventually get out today. On the way home I picked up the fourth shelf bracket I needed for the new shelf above my Wright wrench displays. I also picked up the 84" Rubbermaid FastTrack that I need under the window. And some pegboard hooks that were on clearance.
I also bought another 5 gallons of kerosene for my heater and 5 gallons of gasoline for the tractor.
I installed the fourth shelf bracket above my Wright wrench displays, and installed the ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelf. I then installed a four tube T8 shop light that is hanging from the underside of the shelf. Since I'm installing a fold-down bench under this area, I needed some light here.
I started making a pad to mount a power strip between my dock fan and the Wright wrench displays. There is no stud here, so I need to use toggle bolts to mount the pad to the drywall. I will also be using polyurethane construction adhesive. The pad is a piece of 1" x 4" solid oak, whose edges I rounded with a 1/4" roundoff bit in the router. I was originally going to reuse an old power strip I have, but it's old enough that I'm not confident about the state of its contacts. I'm going to order another power strip like the one Julie bought for me for Christmas. It's robust, has 12 outlets, and as a bonus it's reasonably attractive. It also has a long cord.
I stopped at Lowe's on my way home from work. I bought a ClosetMaid 4' long Maximum Load shelf, three Maximum Load brackets and three Maximum Load standards. This shelf will go above my Wright wrench displays on the north wall near the door to the basement. I bought another box of Gladiator J and L hooks. I bought two 2' x 4' pieces of 3/4" thick birch plywood to make my fold-down bench on the north wall near the door to the basement. I bought some short 1" x 4" pieces of poplar to space the bench out from the wall a bit and to provide some support to the drywall. I also bought a 6' long piece of 1" x 4" oak to create a pad on which to install a power strip in this area. There's only a single gang outlet here, and I need to plug in my dock fan and the shop light I'm going to hang from the new Maximum Load shelf.
As far as the fold-down bench goes, I intend to sandwich the two pieces of birch plywood together with wood screws and wood glue, then trim the edges with 1x2. I haven't decided on a finish, but I'm leaning toward just putting some raised-disc rubber on it, the same stuff I used on my carts I made years ago. It holds up well to abuse, and it's easy to clean.
The Arlington BE3 won't be here until at least Saturday, so I may or may not install the ProSlat on the south wall this week. Of course it's not like I don't have other things to do...
I glued and screwed together the two pieces of birch plywood for the fold-down bench. I marked it for the installation of the Knape & Vogt 206 ZC 15 206 folding L-bracket before installing the sandwiching screws, so I wouldn't put any screws in the way of the L-brackets.
I put the second coat of joint compound on the hole I'm patching from my electrical work for the new outlets above my tool cabinets. It will need a third coat, which means I need to buy more kerosene to keep the garage warm.
I installed four ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelf standards above my Wright wrench displays. One of the studs in this wall is 12" away from the adjacent stud, which is what allowed the four standards to be used for a 48" shelf. Unfortunately I need one more shelf bracket, which I'll pick up tomorrow. I can then put the shelf up and hang a shop light from it.
I put the first coat of setting-type joint compound in the hole I created to run the wiring for the new outlets above the tool cabinets.
I put cable ties on the 12-2 wire in the basement near the breaker box, to tidy it up a tiny bit. It's now bundled with some other 12-2 wire and the wire to the load box.
I reinstalled the northmost shelf above the north garage door and wiped it clean.
I installed the remaining trim rings and baffles in the recessed lights. I also removed some more masking tape but still need to remove some in the north half of the garage.
I ordered an Arlington BE3 and BE2 from Platt. I need the BE3 to allow me to install the ProSlat over the 3-gang switch near the door on the south wall. I bought the BE2 just in case I need it elsewhere, since they're not available at the local big box stores.
It looks like the ProSlat kits will be here on Wednesday.
I'd like to install occupancy-sensing switches in the other half of this bathroom.
I installed two very small shelves above the new outlets. Mainly so I can put an iPhone dock above the outlet with USB charging ports.
The replacement impeller arrived for my snowthrower attachment. I removed the whole auger set, impeller and driveshaft as a single unit after removing the flex coupler. I drove out the roll pins with a roll pin punch, then removed the old impeller from the driveshaft. I then installed the new impeller and drove the roll pins in. I put everything back together, but I'm concerned about the soft part of the flex coupler. It has clearly flattened and elongated after minimal use. I should see if I can find replacement lovejoy coupler parts somewhere; MTD doesn't sell the parts individually. Given what I've seen with the couplers from MTD, I think I want to switch to a split type with retaining ring. But I don't see size D split spiders at McMaster-Carr. I could theoretically switch to a size E coupler at some point. If I do, I'll probably go with stainless steel.
I finished the electrical diagram for the garage, but I haven't mapped the devices to the breakers. I'll do that soon. I did start creating the cheat sheets for the breaker boxes.
I'm waiting for a phone call before returning to complete the breaker installation and the wiring.
I need to start documenting all of the breakers correctly. Right now, I can't trust the main breaker panel labelling, and in some cases I can't read it due to small handwritten labels and ink fading. I want diagrams of all rooms with easy-to-read labels on all breakers. Since I already have some overhead diagrams of the garage for other purposes, I will start there.
I put most of my yard tools back on the Rubbermaid FastTrack rails on the north wall: both of my leaf blowers and their bags, the gas hedge trimmer, the weed wacker, the post hole digger and the small gas can I use for gas/oil mixture.
I removed the tape from the shelf standards above the north garage door and reinstalled all of the shelf brackets. I installed one of the two shelves and put my chainsaw on it.
I put the baffles on all but two of the recessed ceiling lights.
I completed a layout for RibTrax tiles in the garage. I'm still hemming and hawing over how I want to finish the garage floor. On the one hand I'd like to have epoxy, but until warm weather arrives, I can't conduct a reliable vapor transmission test. And I know I'll want some tiles or mats to park on in the winter, it's just a matter of how many and how to keep the underlying concrete from not becoming a complete mess over time if I use flow-through tiles.
I need to start cleaning up in the garage; it's a complete mess and I'm tired of things being all over the floor.
I finished reassembling the tractor snowthrower attachment, and reattached it to the tractor. I then spent a couple of hours clearing snow, from my driveways and some of the road. I will have to do some of it again tomorrow since we're supposed to get more snow tomorrow. I will be happy when this winter is over, it's been rougher than recent winters in terms of snow and cold. We broke the record for snowfall in January, and we've had many days of below 0F temperatures and -20F wind chill temperatures.
I used the new ship auger bit to finish a hole the previous owner had started to get wire into the wall behind my tool cabinet. Due to available angles for drilling, and a horizontal wall plate that's almost 2' above the garage floor, I wound up needing to make a small access hole in the wall in the garage. I will patch it later. I pulled 12-2 wire through with my fiberglass fish tape, installed the wall box, and installed two outlets: a 20A GFCI outlet and a Hubbell 15A outlet with a pair of 3.0 amp USB charging ports. The Hubbell outlet is ganged from the GFCI outlet so I have GFCI protection on both outlets. Tomorrow I'll finish running the wire in the basement, and install the new QO circuit breaker.
It was a real pain in the ass to get this stud out, since the welded part is in the deepest part of the impeller housing. I had to go at it from both sides, but eventually got a new 5/16" hole. I will replace it with an M8 size 316 stainless steel socket head cap screw with a button head and a 24mm diameter 316 stainless steel washer. Not the easiest thing to assemble, since I need to access both sides of the blower at the same time, but it shouldn't be a big problem using a long ratchet extension. I need to apply some rust encapsulator and paint first to the areas I beat up on one side with the drill bits and the other side with the Dremel's cutting wheel. After the screw is installed I will probably put a but of rubberized undercoating around it.
I ordered the stainless steel washers from McMaster-Carr. I also ordered some class 10.9 button-head M8 cap screws, but they won't be here for a couple of weeks. The 316 stainless that I have on hand should be fine until then.
This MTD 190-032 snowthrower attachment is a piece of crap compared to my old Craftsman 2-stage. I don't like the way it's assembled, and parts break too easily. It's only been used twice, and it's already had a pricey ($100) part break and now the welded stud that forced me to compromise the powdercoating to repair.
I installed another 84" FastTrack rail on the north wall. This one is only a couple of feet off of the ground, and now has 5 utility hooks installed. I have a 5-gallon fuel can on each of these hooks. I'm trying to keep as much as I can off of the floor so that it will not be difficult to clean the floor, especially once I have new flooring.
I replaced 3 old outlets with new decora-style outlets, and installed solid brass nickel-plated wall plates (satin finish) on them (the Amerelle Madison series). They look better, and more importantly the outlet contacts are new and the wall plates can't crack like the nylon ones they replaced.
I ordered a 3/4" diameter auger bit, another Hubbel AC outlet with 3.0 amp USB ports, and 2 more cans of Great Stuff Fireblack expanding foam from Home Depot for in-store pickup. While I'm there I'll likely get an oak 1x4 to make small shelves for the kitchen. I should also pick up some more adhesive-backed hooks.
I also picked up some replacement shear pins for my MTD 190-032 snowthrower attachment. I broke one this week and now only have one spare.
I installed the 240V wall plate.
I installed a Hubbell AC outlet with two 3.0 amp USB ports in the kitchen using 3M mounting tape since I didn't want to drill holes in the backsplash tile for a cheap shelf that may or may not be used long-term. I installed one of the floating shelves to hold my Elevation Labs dock, and one of the adhesive-backed hooks for my headset. I now have a place for my phone and headset to charge in the kitchen.
I put the first coat of paint on the remainder of the ceiling and the wall above the north garage door. It might not need a second coat, but I'll likely apply one anyway.
I ordered a factory-second Elevation Labs dock. This may or may not be related to the garage, depending on where I use it. But I needed a second dock since I have only one and it's in my office on the second floor. The second one will either live in the kitchen or move between the kitchen and the garage.
Tomorrow I intend to mount another Rubbermaid FastTrack on the north wall to hang fuel cans, continue painting and hopefully start fabricating the corner protectors for the drywall around the window well.
As of this morning, my road had not been plowed. And due to the wind, it was deeply drifted. Even my neighbor with a 4WD lifted truck could not get out.
I dried my winter clothes, bundled up and went out with the tractor and new snothrower attachment with corrected extension spring setup. Wow... now it throws snow 50' easily, even when I ram it into 18" of snow. I cleared the remainder of my circle driveway, then cleared the cul-de-sac. Since I was tired of being stranded, I also started to clear my road thoguh I knew I did not have enough gasoline to finish. I got about halfway down the road on my first pass when I spotted a land mover on Oak Hill. He was just sitting there. I waited a couple of minutes, then he started to move. He was trying to make the corner to clear my road! I retreated, and 20 minutes later he made the first pass. Ugh, he buried the driveways in 4' of snow. Fortunately when he got to my driveway, there wasn't enough snow to bury me since I had cleared the cul-de-sac. But it was now 2PM, so I did not attempt to get to work since I'm told by friends that Ortonville Road is a sheet of ice in spots. But tomorrow I should have no trouble getting to work.
For what it's worth, the new snowthrower attachment is fabulous. It throws the snow a LONG way, in fact I have to be careful when doing the circle drive since it can throw it so high that it will settle on the other part of the driveway if there is any wind. That's nearly 100 feet! So now I'm prepared for any kind of snow conditions, as long as I keep a good amount of gasoline on hand. I could even clear a path on my road if necessary.
Since I had to write off the day of work, I headed out again and unburied all of the driveways on my road from the plow snow. I also cleared all of Linda's driveway (she was out shoveling), and all of Chris and Brenda's upper driveway. I'm not sure if Chris and Brenda are not home or if their tractor is having trouble. He was out plowing with it over the weekend, but his upper driveway was not clear today. Maybe it just drifted over again. I tried to blow the snow far away from their driveway so it'll stay relatively clear tonight and tomorrow.
In any event, it was nice to meet some of my new neighbors and I am SO glad that my road is clear! I can finally go to work tomorrow!
In the process of trying to clear the new 8+ inches of snow on my driveways, my plow blade broke. A weld on the lift mechanism that's not really reachable with a MIG torch. And of course it's not like I was going to have much luck moving this much snow; I had basically run out of space around the driveways. Craig brought me some gasoline, but he almost got stuck twice on my road. And that was this morning, and it was still snowing. Later it started blowing around and drifting.
I called the local Tractor Supply store in Ortonville and they had one MTD 190-032 snowthrower attachment in stock. I had just looked for this attachment online yesterday, and everyone wanted $1349 or more. I reserved the one at Tractor Supply and mom came and picked me up in her 4WD truck. I got the attachment for $999 plus tax.
Of course, typical of the big box stores... missing parts. Two retaining clips, a cotter pin, zip ties. I scavenged two retaining clips from the lift arms of my mower deck. I used a stainless steel M4 screw and bent it to replace the cotter pin. Got the snowthrower working, and cleared my main driveway, an area in the cul-de-sac around my mailbox, and part of my circle drive. At that point the windchill was -18F and it was dark outside, so I stopped.
There is an issue with the idler pulley on the upper drive belt; the tension spring is too long and doesn't provide much pressure. This causes the belt to slip fairly easily when throwing in deep snow. Unfortunately this spring sits close to the idler pulley, so I can't just use a slightly larger idler pulley. It is of course possible that I swapped the extension springs...
Indeed I had swapped the upper and lower extension springs. The reason: the diagram in the instructions shows a belt keeper pin that does not exist. There's only one other belt keeper pin that can be used to hold one end of the extension spring, and it's too close to the idler pulley bracket to provide tension when using the correct spring. So I had assumed I needed to use the shorter, smaller diameter keeper spring. What I really needed to do was to attach the correct, larger upper extension spring to the slotted fitting that's intended for the PTO cable on tractors with manual PTO. This appears to work, I'll test it tomorrow. Hopefully I will no longer experience slow blowing in deep snow. There is now some tension on the idler spring without the PTO engaged, and the auger appears to spin consistently when I engage the PTO. I'm betting that my work will go faster tomorrow.
I installed the FRP panel to the south of the south garage door. This will protect the wall from abuse from the filter/regulator/etc. that will be on this wall. And I wanted to get rid of the piece of FRP; it was a 21" wide leftover from other work.
I installed the leftover ProSlat between the back door and the west wall. Depending on whether or not I can use regular slatwall hooks in the ProSlat, I may buy more of it. It looks nice and it doesn't weigh down the walls like MDF slatwall. It also won't be adversely affected by moisture, and it's significantly less expensive than GearWall.
I will be installing the leftovers elsewhere, posssibly on the space between the back door and the south garage door.
I ordered some slatwall hooks from ULINE. I ordered 50 2" hooks and 25 4" hooks. These are much less expensive than the ProSlat kits, but I don't know if they will work in the ProSlat slatwall. I think they will, but I still have regular slatwall to install in the stairwell to the basement and I can use them there. they should arrive sometime this week, but the weather we're getting will probably slow things a bit.
I can't really use the full 96" on the wall shared with the laundry room. The stud spacing in this wall will not allow it, the ends would be unsupported. I will probably trim it to 64" length, and use the remaining 32" elsewhere. Of course I don't have sufficient edge trim to split up the pieces in this manner, but there are some locations where this will not matter. For example, between the west wall and the back door.
I installed two stainless steel pegboards above my tool cabinets. I also attached one of my 4-tube T8 shop lights to the underside of the wire shelving above my 52" tool cabinet. This will provide extra light when I need to work on something on the top of the cabinet.
I rewired the new 20A GFCI outlet in the garage between the garage doors. I had miswired it the first time; it cares which wires are input versus downstream load (any ganged outlets). I don't have anything ganged from this outlet.
I then put the first coat of paint on the edges above the north garage door, around the northwest fluorescent light, and on the north and center air hose reel mounts.
The 32 square feet of ProSlat slatwall should arrive on Friday.
I primed the remainder of the edges on the wall above the north garage door, and around the northwest fluorescent light, north garage door opener, and the recessed lights. I need to tape off the northmost garage door hardware to prime around it and along the remainder of the north wall before I can get out the roller to prime the remainder of the ceiling.
Once I finish this priming and painting, I will start completing my air plumbing.
I received many nice Christmas gifts from my loved ones for the garage. Festool Sys Carts, Talon pegboard hooks, Wallpeg pegboard hooks, Proslat shelves and baskets, a power strip, a 32-gallon Rubbermaid BRUTE trash can with domed lid and casters, a Stanley Fatmax magnetic level, a Festool Maxi Systainer, a Festool Sys Toolbox, a Newborn Brothers 250 caulk gun, a Tajima CNV-100SP caulk gun, a Lehigh power drill holder, a Knape & Vogt 206 ZC 16 206 Series Adjustable Folding 16" L-Bracket, a pair of Amerelle polished nickel wall plates... I'm probably missing something. To all those I love, thank you SO much for the gifts for the garage! I can't wait to get over the flu and get back to finishing the garage work!
My sister's power was out for the same amount of time. On the fourth night of the outage, there was a DTE truck parked outside her home for several hours. My sister's boyfriend went out to talk to them and see if they would like some hot coffee. He asked what they were doing. They answered, "We're waiting for our next call." Umm, OK. So the automated system that tells me that there are 1,500 employees working 16 hour shifts on repairs... are the guys parked for hours in areas where there is no cell phone reception included in the 1,500? I'm not calling out the linemen... I've no idea if they were avoiding work or not. But it seems to me that the whole system is terribly inefficient for the 21st century. It should not take a week to restore 1,800 downed lines (the number given to me by the utility company) when you've reportedly drafted crews from multiple surrounding states. When hundreds of thousands of customers are without electricity for 5 days in the winter in Michigan, crews shouldn't be sitting idle for hours on end. How does this happen? Is monitoring and dispatch so poor that the utility company doesn't even know where to send crews? In the age of the Internet of things, why would companies with electricity and tons of rights of way not have reasonable monitoring technology?
We're under a winter storm warning, so I might lose power again. We could get up to 1/3" inch of ice. Sigh, we're only in December and it's already been a fairly brutal winter.
I primed the frames of two of the pegboard assemblies I had put together months ago. I used Zinsser B-I-N. I will paint them with Olympic ICON Exterior semigloss late tonight. One of them will be installed below my Wright wrench displays.
I'm leaving space below my Wright wrench displays for a fold-down bench. A fold-down bench is the best solution for bench space in this area, as opposed to a rolling bench. There will be times when I need the space to move something to/from the basement, and I don't want to have to roll a bench into the garage to make room. I'm leaning toward the bench from Bench Solution becuase it's reasonably attractive and it has the best lock and release mechanism I've seen. This isn't the only folding bench I'll be installing; I'm going to make my own for another location.
I put two thin coats of Olympic ICON Exterior semigloss on one of the pegboard frames, and one coat on a second frame.
The joint compound I applied earlier in the day wasn't drying fast enough, probably due to the weather (wet, cold). I used my heat gun to assist it. Hopefully I can sand it tomorrow so I can tape off the remaining areas and start priming and painting the remainder of the ceiling.
At 12:39AM, my power flickered quite a bit. Sigh, the ice storm is taking its toll...
I installed one of the framed pegboards below the Wright wrench displays. Obviously the tricky part is getting the nylon spacers I'm using to stick to the back of the pegboard while installing. I used 3M Super 90 contact adhesive, after trying SuperGlue without success. The Super 90 worked fine.
I rearranged things on the GearWall near the basement door, to keep my jackstands, wheel chocks, MityVac 7201 and creeper together. Nice to have this stuff off of the floor, even though it's all still covered with joint compound dust (I'll clean up when the garage is closer to completion).
I will be installing wire shelving above this location. The top of the GearWall it at the same height as the top of the basement door trim, so shelving above it will not conflict with the door.
I created a wide French cleat to hang my Wright combination wrench boards. I used the wood from the shelf I removed from the east wall. I primed it with Zinsser B-I-N, and mounted it with 2.5" long deck screws. I installed the Wright combination wrench boards, and cleaned them up a bit. They were very dusty, and one of them had paint spatter on it from painting the south half of the garage.
I put a coat of semigloss on the plywood mounting for my dock fan. This is because I expect it to get dirty and want it to be easy to wipe off.
I climbed into the attic and sealed the remaining recessed lights with Great Stuff Fireblock expanding foam. The lights don't get hot at all with the Cree LED bulbs in them, so it should hold up. Expanding foam doesn't hold up to heat, the point of Fireblock foam is to prevent fire from spreading quickly. I tried using some fireblock caulk from the finished side, but it is not very sticky and of course nothing sticks well to exposed gypsum. The Great Stuff Fireblock foam is sufficient, and certainly better than nothing.
I wish I was ready to blow in the attic insulation, but the reality is that there is electrical work that I should do beforehand.
I put my tool cabinets in place, but I might shuffle them around a bit. For now I just want them out of the way of continuing to prime and paint the north half of the garage.
At least it's starting to look like a garage instead of a hoarder's pigpen...
I need to buy some rubber tire chains. The driveway needs resurfacing anyway so I didn't worry about it today/tonight, but once resurfaced I don't want to be scarring it up with the steel tire chains.
I cut 10 ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelf standards to 39" for the east wall above my tool cabinets. The 39" length was determined by subtracting the height of a typical tool cabinet and 36" of pegboard from hy ceiling height, and also making sure I could mount a shelf on the lowermost holes and still open my Craftsman tool cabinet lids.
I mounted the first ClosetMaid Maximum Load standard, and checked that I'll be able to install all 10 of them. That's 5 for each 72" shelf. At the moment I intend to install four 72" shelves. I might wind up with another one or two later, depending on how I want to organize items on these shelves.
I hope to install the remaining standards tomorrow night, along with my stainless steel pegboards. I desperately need to get my tool cabinets back into place and I can't do that until the shelves and pegboard are mounted.
I went out for more kerosene. The roads were very slippery.
I moved some more things out of the way, and primed the edges of the cove area near the door to the basement. I also primed the plywood that serves as the mounting pad for my dock fan. I taped off the northeast fluorescent ceiling light.
I primed the walls in the cove area and the northeast part of the ceiling. I then put the first coat of paint on these areas. I also put the second coat of paint on the northeast wall where my tool cabinets will be located. When it dries, I can install the ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelving and stainless steel pegboard, and put my tool cabinets back into place. Once I get a second coat of paint on the cove area, I can install the GearWall panels there.
Tonight I realized that that the paint I applied weeks ago in the south half of the garage has yellowed. This is probably from running the kerosene heater. Not much I can do about it but hope that eventually the paint I'm applying now will yellow a bit to match. In tne end, it's a garage; it's not that critical to me to have all the walls match. I am more interested in having the moisture protection of the primer and having the holes and joints patched. The reality is that most of the wall space will be hidden when I'm done (shelving, cabinets, GearWall, GearTrack, slatwall, etc.).
I'm starting to wish I wasn't using Kilz Original primer; it demands ventilation, which isn't convenient when the temperature outside is 17F.
I put some touch-up caulk on a few narrow gaps in the door trim. Once it gets tacky, I'll be priming the door trim with Kilz Original. I'm also going to start priming the north half of the ceiling.
The trim around the door to the basement is beat up beyond patching. However, since it's not very visible to the outside world, I'm not going to bother replacing it. I'll just prime and paint it as is for now.
I taped off the weatherstripping around the frame of the door to the house, then primed it with Kilz Original. I later put the first coat of Olympic ICON semigloss paint on the trim. After that dried, I put the second coat on. It could probably use a third coat, but I'm moving on.
We're supposed to get 3 to 6 inches of snow tomorrow, which means I need to prepare the tractor to plow snow. Wheel weights, chains and plow blade. At the moment I don't know where I'll store my mowing deck; the intended location would put it in the way of the priming and painting I need to do.
I mounted my garage door openers to the panel I created for the long ago, then mounted the panel on the wall. Since I could only hit studs on one side of the panel, I used a bit of the Loctite PL Premium to adhere the panel to the wall. I leaned my heavy ladder against the panel for the night to keep it pressed to the wall while the Loctite cures. I'm also going to caulk the edges of this panel. It will not be fun to remove it if necessary some day, but I didn't want to impinge on another stud that I may want to use for shelf or pegboard mounting and I didn't want a huge panel just for garage door openers.
I spot primed the door trim with Zinsser B-I-N, just a thin coat on the areas where bare wood was exposed, on stains that might not be covered by a single coat of Kilz Original, and on the exposed nail heads.
I put 2 coats of Olympic ICON Exterior semigloss paint on the corner guards. I had forgotten how much I dislike painting trim with cheap brushes. I have some good brushes, but I've been saving them for interior work. I did the second coat with foam brushes, since I wanted a thin coat. They might need a third coat (keep in mind I started with bare red oak), but I'm going to leave them with two coats for now.
Tomorrow I hope to move on to brush priming the rest of the east wall and to get started brush priming the ceiling in the north half of the garage. The weather hasn't been cooperative, it's been bitter cold and hence I've had to run the kerosene heater a lot.
I caulked the edges of the corner guards. This was mainly to compensate for uneven walls. I don't want bugs and dust going between the corner guards and the wall. The corner guards are now ready for paint.
I think I should replace the trim around the door to the house. It's very beat up, and semigloss paint is only going to highlight the damage. I'll see what I can do with sandpaper and filler, but I suspect it won't be enough. I did clean it up a bit, and with the exception of a large dent on one edge, it's probably usable. The downside is that it was installed with giant-headed nails, and they were not concealed in any way.
I need to get some kick and push plates for the doors. I need 4 kick plates and 4 push plates. I need them on both sides of the door to the basement, the inside of the door to the house and the inside of the door to the back yard. I'd like the stainless steel ones from diamondlifegear.com; they're less expensive than others I've looked at, and don't have screw holes (I intend to use adhesive to install them).
I don't have the caulk I want to use on-hand: DAP 3.0 White Window, Door, Trim and Siding Sealant. I'll pick some up at Home Depot tomorrow.
I wish diamondlifegear.com would adhere the backing board with a temporary adhesive so I wouldn't have to mess with this. The problem is that the backing board is so flexible that it doesn't stay against the stainless steel pegboard when inserting a hook. Their solution is to bolt the backing board to the pegboard at the corners, which is nowhere near sufficient given the flexibility of the backing board. The whole point of the backing board is hence defeated.
I'll find a solution, but in the meantime I'm moving on to other things.
I put the second coat of joint compound on the joint and corner near the door to the basement.
I created wall corner guards for the corner near the door to the basement and the laundry room wall corners. They're 6' long, made from 1x3 oak boards screwed and glued together at a 90 degree angle. I rounded the edges with a 3/8" roundoff bit in the router. These could have been done with pine since I'll be painting them, but the oak should hold up better to being bumped by hard objects. I'm going to attach them to the corners with polyurethane construction adhesive and finish nails. I need to do all 3 at the same time so I don't waste a bunch of adhesive (it's in caulk gun tubes). That means I need to wait until I'm done patching the corner by the garage door.
I sanded the joint and corner I repaired near the basement door.
I sanded the new corner protectors. It took a while (oak is hard, duh).
I mounted the corner protectors using the Loctite PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive and my finish nailer with 2" nails. While the nails are a bit short since they were driven through 3/4" of wood and 5/8" of drywall, they should be sufficient to hold the pieces in place until the polyurethane cures. In the end I don't want a super-firm attachment since the wood will expand and contract at a different rate than the drywall, and I want the construction adhesive to handle the movement. The objective here is just to prevent bashing drywall corners which crack easily (joint compound is not flexible and crumbles if smacked). All of these corners were severely damaged when I bought the house because they're in areas with a high probability of being bumped.
Later this week I will caulk the edges of the corner guards. There's a decent gap in some spots on each one because the drywall corners are not straight. But I'm very happy I put these in place; they'll prevent drywall damage and are hard, strong and repairable when necessary.
I put a second layer of caulk on the gap by the door to the basement. The first coat cracked from shrinkage.
I put some spackling compound over the countersunk screw heads in the corner protectors. I'm not going to fuss too much over the heads, I just wanted to hide them a bit.
I made an adjustment on my kerosene heater. It was not burning the fuel cleanly, and was producing a nasty smell. It's much better now.
I spent another 30 minutes doing a second round of cleaning adhesive from the stainless steel pegboard I thrashed last night. I need to remove the4 plastic protective cover and hit the front with adhesive remover, it should then be good to go (though sans the backing board).
Late tonight I intend to finish patching the joint and corner near the door to the basement, and start taping off things in the north end of the garage so I can finish priming and painting the ceiling and walls. Tomorrow I will hopefully seal the remaining recessed lights with fireblock foam and/or fireblock caulk, and get much of the priming of the ceiling done. I'd also like to get the east wall painted so I can install the shelves and pegboard and put my tool cabinets back into position.
I caulked the gap between the basement door trim and the east wall with painter's caulk (acrylic latex with silicone, paintable).
I put a second coat of paint on the panel I created for the garage door openers. I need some construction adhesive to install it; while there will be two screws into a stud, they will not be at the center of the panel.
I put the second coat of joint compound on the joint on the east wall, and patched the dents and holes on the rest of the wall. I don't expect to apply a third coat of joint compound, mostly because I don't have time to do it but also because this joint will mostly be covered by tool cabinets and pegboard.
I put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on the panel I made for my garage door openers way back when. I later put a coat of gloss white enamel spraypaint on it ("Appliance Epoxy", which is just a hard enamel). I want a gloss paint here, this panel will be visited by dirty hands and I'll need to be able to clean it easily.
I sanded the second coat of joint compound on the east wall. I'm not going to put a third coat on it. I do need to put another coat on some of the deep dents I patched, tomorrow.
I removed the hideous, rickety handrail from the steps to the house from the garage. I don't know who put this on, but I suspect it was monkey boy (Howard Graves). The fastening to the wall was terrible and almost pointless since he split the wood with the screws. It would not have held anyone that put their weight on it. Plus I don't believe code calls for it; there are only 2 risers. Since I will have my tool cabinet with tall locker next to these steps, there's no need for a handrail since there won't be anywhere to step off the side of the stairs.
I found the location of one of the studs in the wall above my tool cabinets. It wasn't easy since there is OSB behind the drywall and I don't know how the drywall was attached to it (there are no screws or nails to be found); I suspect it was all just glued, which is probably part of the reason one of the joints is failing. But I can now prime the ceiling over the tool cabinets.
I primed the edge of the ceiling over my tool cabinets, in the cove near the door to the basement, and part of the north wall. I'll probably get the priming done in the next couple of days, and hopefully be ready to paint sometime late in the week.
I am sidetracked tonight... I'm replacing rear wheel bearings in the MINI. I replaced the original driver side rear bearing first, since it was the one with play in it. It was a rusted mess. Normally I'd call this an easy job, but MINI didn't make the bolts easy to access. Not terrible, but not trivial. I didn't have time to do the passenger side, which is also making noise. I'll replace that one tomorrow night.
Funny, I just realized this was the first time I had one of my cars in the garage. I moved in during the first week of July. It has taken me 5 months to redo a laundry room and do the work in the garage that I've done so far. Not exactly speedy, but it's progress. And it was very nice to have a car in the garage. I can't wait to finish the garage so I can park cars in it.
I then used Great Stuff Fireblock expanding foam in the attic to help seal the recessed lights to the ceiling. I didn't get all of them, but I managed to get 18 of them done before running out of the first can of foam. I also sprayed some around the gaps around the ceiling outlet boxes. I'll try to do the remainder tomorrow.
I removed the long, warped wood shelf from the north part of the east wall. It was hideous and mostly unusable. I will be putting 24 feet of ClosetMaid Maximum load shelving on this wall, up high so I can install pegboard below them and also still open the tops of my tool cabinets. Of course my long-term plan is to buy two new 56" tool cabinets for this wall, without anything on the top of them. That will give me bench space I don't have right now.
I'm still debating where all of my pegboard and GearTrack will be installed. I also need a French cleat somewhere to hang my Wright combination wrench displays, or I need to build a hinged cabinet for them as I had planned at my previous residence. The advantage of a hinged cabinet would be keeping dust out and using up less wall space. The disadvantage would be depth. However, if I offset the displays inside the cabinet, the cabinet doesn't need to be much deeper than one of the displays.
Given how much of the east wall on the north half of the garage will be covered with shelving and pegboard and hidden by tool cabinets, I might not completely redo the drywall joints that are having trouble. I might leave the old tape in place and simply replace the outer layer of joint compound. I won't know for sure until I dig into it.
Late at night, I confirmed that the 21.5" wide piece of FRP left over from the piece I put below the north window will work fine to protect the piece of wall between the south garage door and the south wall. I also confirmed that the shelving that I intend to install above my tool cabinets will not cross the joint that needs repair. Tomorrow I will prepare to prime the ceiling in the north half of the garage, but I need to take a break to try to install the rear wheel bearings on the MINI.
I finished patching the spots of drywall that broke while installing shelf standards on the south wall. I primed them with Zinsser B-I-N. I'm still working on a plan for the remainder of storage on this wall.
I also picked up two more ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelves and 8 brackets to mount them. I already have the standards, this is to allow me to have two tiers of shelves above my tool cabinets and on the south wall.
I also bought 4 pieces of 4' long Gladiator GearTrack, end caps for them, and a small number of hooks for them. I also bought 2 more ladder hangers for my Rubbermaid FastTracks. I intend to hang my 2', 4' and a future 6' ladder on the wall in the stairwell from the garage to the basement. This keeps them easily accessible without consuming garage space. The west wall in the stairwell is set back about 4" so the ladders won't intrude much into the stairwell.
The CH Hanson 03040 magnetic stud finders arrived from Amazon. I need these to deal with walls where my studfinder doesn't work due to sheathing underneath the drywall. The walls between the garage and the laundry room, for example. I tested one, it works well. Gotta love the inexpensive, truly simple tools that don't require batteries.
I put a second coat of paint on the south wall. Unfortunately I can tell where I primed and where I didn't prime. I'm not going to sweat it, it's a garage after all and slatwall is going to hide most of this wall.
I put the first coat of paint on the wall between the garage doors. I used the new paint that has base #3 instead of base #1. It looks like it matches, but I won't really know until I use the two paints right next to each other. I'm still hoping that I won't need to do that on the ceiling. The smart thing to do would be to use the new paint for the first coat on the north half of the ceiling, then use the first bucket of paint for the second coat.
While painting the south wall, I noted a lot of cold air drafting between the sill plate and the foundation. I need to foam and/or caulk there.
I installed two of the ClosetMaid Maximum Load 6' long shelves on the south wall. I need them so I can migrate some things to the shelves from the north half of the garage before starting to prime and paint the ceiling in the north half. The shelves over the north garage door need to come down while I prime and paint.
Unfortunately, due to the drywall being bowed and poorly installed, it broke out in 3 spots when installing the shelf standards. I cut the paper around these areas (2" holes) and removed the crumbled parts of the drywall. I then filled with setting-type joint compound. I wish I had some Durabond compound on hand, but the easy-sand type should be sufficient. It's not like this wall space will ever be moving around again; it now has 5 ClosetMaid Maximum Load standards on it and 2 shelves. I may add a third shelf later. These shelves will mostly be used to hold tools that I have in Festool Systainers. Nail guns, pneumatic staplers, etc. Eventually most of my woodworking type tools will be in Systainers. I don't use them every day, so having them up high on shelves is perfect for me. As is being able to latch them together to take them outside to work in the driveway when desired.
I had forgotten the superiority of the ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelving since I haven't installed any in several years. It is MUCH stronger than the Rubbermaid shelves I put over the garage doors. The wire is much thicker, and there are three thick lengthwise wires on a 16" deep shelf versus the two longitudinal wires on a 20" deep shelf on the Rubbermaid. Further, I've always liked the way the ClosetMaid shelves latch into the brackets; it makes them very rigid. And finally, nothing protrudes through the wires of the ClosetMaid shelves, unlike the Rubbermaid whose brackets stick up through the wire shelf and make it harder to move things around. In summary, there's no comparison... the ClosetMaid is hands-down MUCH nicer than the Rubbermaid. Unless you desperately need the 20" depth of the Rubbermaid, don't think twice... buy the ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelving.
I cut the four pieces of Gladiator GearTrack to fit on the east end of the south wall. I installed 3 of them, and I'm not sure I'll use the fourth one here. I intend to hang my spare air hoses and extension cords here, and possibly my saw horses. I will likely do something similar on the north wall to hang my creeper and Systainer Carts.
I need to reinstall the fluorescent lights in the south half of the garage. The new ballasts need to be installed, and I need to install some supports in the attic for the southeast light. Unfortunately I misplaced the nut holding the ballast in one of the lights. Hence I had to go to Lowe's to get one, since it's a #10-24 and I don't have many non-metric fasteners on hand.
I reinstalled the fluorescent light nearest the south garage door. I have not yet put supports in the attic for the installation of the remaining fluorescent light.
I primed the wall area between the garage doors and the wall area between the south garage door and the back door.
The south half of the ceiling now looks a lot better than it did when I bought the house. No more failed ceiling drywall joints, no more drywall falling off of the ceiling, no more dead garage door opener with risky mounting, and all new recessed lights.
I got the first coat of paint on the edges of the south half of the ceiling. I also started putting the first coat on the rest of the south half of the ceiling, but will need to finish the first coat tomorrow.
Here's a picture after I had cut some of the mess up and hauled some of it away. That's not an optical illusion; the trunk of the oak tree is almost as wide as my MINI Cooper. The fully felled oak tree on the other side of the driveway (not pictured) is larger; its trunk is wider than my height. I'm leaving that one be since it'd be a significant undertaking to remove it and it fell away from the driveway. Sad to see the old oak trees go, hopefully the one in the picture will survive despite losing a large bough. I need to make a clean cut of the remaining bough and treat it.
I went to Home Depot and bought some more masking tape, painter's caulk, fire block caulk, replacement springs for the Halo recessed light baffles, paint roller covers, paint brushes, paint cup liners, some more pegboard to cut for small areas, six 6' long 1x2 select pine boards, and four more Simpson RTC42 corner ties. I now have a sufficient number of RTC42 to make the rolling bench I need. I will later buy the lumber and Colson Total Lock 5" x 2" casters to build the bench.
I moved all of my detailing Systainers to the basement to get them out of my way. I also moved my small detailing cart to the basement.
I removed the second shelf above the south garage door and started taping off more things on the ceiling so I can finish priming that half of the garage.
We had severe weather this evening, and we're due for more later tonight. We're anticipating 55 mph winds and we're under a tornado watch. Very odd for this time of year.
I put one coat of the Olympic Icon paint on the wall shared with the laundry room and a bit of the ceiling, just to see what it will look like when dry. I'm mainly looking for flash-through from the Zinsser B-I-N.
I need to make a trip to Home Depot for some supplies like masking tape and more economy paintbrushes and 3/8" nap roller covers.
Late at night, I took a look at the coat of Olympic Icon paint I put on the wall and a bit of the ceiling. Flash-through of the Zinsser B-I-N is essentially nil, probably thanks to the Kilz Original. I'm confident that I won't have any problems once there are two coats of paint applied.
I started wiping the edges of the ceiling in the south half of the garage so I can apply primer around all of the edges and obstacles with a brush. In the process I found a few more areas where the ceiling drywall needed to be shored up with drywall screws and the nails re-driven. I spackled over those areas, I'll need to sand them tomorrow before I apply primer. Tonight I should get some of the edge priming done. Part of the reason I'm using an oil-based primer is to help prevent bleed-through of rust from the original drywall nails, which were uncoated nails.
I also taped off some things... half of the shelf standards above the south garage door and the galvanized angle of the garage door opener mounting.
My focus remains on the ceiling. I still have plenty of wall work to do, but there's little sense in starting it until the ceiling is done. Tomorrow I hope to get the south half of the ceiling primed, and possibly get the first coat of paint on it.
Tomorrow I need to bear down on preparation to prime the ceiling in the south half of the garage. I should remove the non-functional utility sink since it's in my way, and take apart my old workbench and move it to the basement. Then wipe the ceiling with a sponge and water with a bit of TSP in it.
I am starting to think I want some fold-down benchtops using the Knape & Vogt 206 ZC 16 206 folding L-brackets. They are strong, and having benchtops that aren't always intruding into parking space would be a good thing. And for the one beefy rolling bench I intend to build, I can have a fold-down extension that lets me use it as an outfeed table or just larger worktop when dealing with large sheet goods..
At this point, all major drywall joint failures are repaired. There is a horizontal joint on the east wall in the north half of the garage that needs repair, but I can't address it right now because my tool cabinets are in the way and I have nowhere else to put them. I will probably prime and paint the south side of the garage, then move my tool cabinets there for a bit to let me get at the east wall in the north half of the garage.
My large workbench will become a real hindrance to priming and painting. I need to take it apart and move it to the basement in pieces.
I applied the second coat of joint compound to the 12" ceiling joint by my center air hose reel and the wall joint above the north garage door. I applied the third coat of joint compound to the wall joint above the back door. I applied a second coat of joint compound on the south corner of the laundry room wall. I don't expect to put more compound here since I'll be installing corner protection.
I taped the wall joint above the back door, the 12" ceiling joint by my air hose reel, and the wall joint above the north garage door using setting-type joint compound. I used a little more water in the mix than I normally use, in order to give me a little bit more work time. I also put some joint compound on the south corner of the wall shared with the laundry room.
I sanded the second coat of joint compound on the joints on the wall shared with the laundry room. I then applied a third coat of joint compound.
I sealed ceiling joints 6, 7, 15 and 16 with Zinsser B-I-N. In the process, I realized that I missed the repair of one small joint: 12" of joint 5 between my air hose reel mount and the west wall. I will start repairing this joint when I start repairing a nearby joint above the north garage door.
I started sanding the third coat of joint compound on the wall shared with the laundry room. I'm not done since the compound is not completely dry yet.
I straightend the beat-up drywall corner guard on the wall shared with the laundry room, and cleaned the joint compound out of it. It had very few nails in it; I put some more in it. I'm going to install beefier corner guards on this and the other corner, but I needed to get this corner guard straightened up a bit so I can mud it again and hence have a decent base unerneath corner guards. I was going to buy metal corner guards, but I've changed my mind... it will be easier for me to just use wood, which will be easier to repair in the future and a lot less expensive.
I cleaned the joint above the back door, the 12" joint on the ceiling near my air hose reel mount, and the failed joint above the north garage door. Damn lazy drywallers... every wall joint I've repaired has failed because the joint isn't at a wall stud. Which means they'll likely fail again at some point. Not much I can do about it without rpelacing drywall, and I don't have time to do that right now. I might later put FRP panels over those areas.
I spent the entire day in the garage, and feel like I didn't get all that much done. Ceiling work is very time-consuming..
I primed ceiling joints 8, 9, 17 and 18 with Zinsser B-I-N. The repair of these joints is now complete, and I'm getting closer to having the ceiling joint repair done.
I also primed the joint on the wall above the south garage door.
I sanded joints 6, 7, the rest of joint 16 and the two joints I created with the patch from my ceiling fall. These are now ready for the third coat of joint compound.
Late at night... I applied the third coat of joint compound on the remaining ceiling joints. I put a second coat of joint compound on the joints of the wall shared with the laundry room. I should be able to sand and prime the ceiling joints in the morning, at which point all ceiling joint repair will be completed. I need to finish repairing wall joints that touch the ceiling (two above the north garage door, one above the back door), and I can then prime the ceiling.
I sanded the third coat of joint compound on ceiling joints 8, 9, 17 and 18. They are ready for primer. I'm aiming to get all ceiling joint compound done this weekend. I'd really like to get all the wall work done too, except for the south wall since messing with that wall means turning off my air compressor; I can't do that right now since I'm using the blow guns to get rid of joint compound dust. Hopefully I can get the east and west walls done, though tonight I realized I need to redo the joint above the back door of the garage; like other joints, its tape has failed.
I'm rambling... I will continue to focus on the ceiling until it's fully primed and painted. It's the hardest work and the job I started first. Tomorrow I'll sand the second coat of compound on joints 6, 7 and 16 and apply the third coat of joint compound. On Sunday I can hopefully seal up all joints in the south half of the garage with Zinsser B-I-N, and start priming the ceiling with Kilz Original. Given that there's already paint on all of the ceiling except my patch, I should only need one coat. Especially since I'm using Olympic ONE Exterior paint/primer as the top coat. The main reason for the Kilz Original is to add a layer that's not vapor permeable.
I also bought another 18 lb. bag of setting-type joint compound, two cheap 9' x 12' drop cloths, three Cree LED 2700K bulbs for the master bedroom closet, and a pair of 6' long select pine 2x2's that I might use to mount things between the garage doors. Using them should allow me to utilize wall space obscured by air plumbing.
I put the third (final) coat of joint compound on ceiling joints 8, 9, 17 and 18. I used pre-mixed joint compound here.
I removed the tape from the two bad joints on the wall shared with the laundry room. I cleaned the joints, and will soon retape and mud them.
Bah, I don't have time to be a wimp. I got out the palm sander and sanded the second coat of joint compound on joints 8, 9, 17 and 18. VERY dusty job. I need to do something about my lack of sealed eye protection. I ordered various safety glasses and a pair of goggles from Amazon, and a Festool Systainer SYS 1 to keep them in. I keep trashing my various safety glasses by keeping them with other items in a tool drawer. It was time to buy dustproof storage for them where I can also stash a few microfiber towels to clean them.
I then sanded joint 8 and put a second coat of joint compound on it. I also put a little bit of a third coat on joint 7 in part of the problem area.
At this point, the ceiling joints in the south half of the garage all have a second coat of joint compound. They'll all need a third coat. Most of the third coats will be light since they're pretty good after the second coat, except for joint 7 which will need a 4th coat. Since I'm running low on setting-type compound, I will likely use pre-mixed compound for the third coat on all joints except joint 7.
I really want to get joints 7 and 8 done so I can put the flourescent lights back on the ceiling. I don't need them for light right now, but the fixtures are in my way.
I also bought some paint brushes, tray liners, foam brushes, and a roller set with plastic pan.
I sanded ceiling joints 6, 7 and 15 and applied the second coat of joint compound. Joint 7 is going to need 4 coats, since the two pieces of drywall are very uneven in one spot (the spot where I patched in a new, straight piece of drywall after I fell through the ceiling). Nice to have a diagram that no longer includes ceiling joints whose repair has not been started.
I sanded the final coat of joint compound on the patch on the wall shared with the laundry room. It's not perfect, but it's damn close. It's ready for Zinsser B-I-N primer.
Tomorrow I will continue working on the ceiling drywall joints.
I moved a bunch of stuff to the north half of the garage to make room to work on the south half. I then shored up the remaining ceiling drywall on the south half, and taped and mudded a 16' joint, two 4' joints and a short joint above the garage door. I later taped and mudded the final joint, which was 19' long. At this point, all of the ceiling joints have been retaped. However, the whole south half of the garage still needs second and third coats of joint compound. Hopefully I can get much of that done this week and get them sealed up with Zinsser B-I-N. I will then be ready to prime the ceiling with Kilz Original and paint it.
The shelving is going above my tool cabinets, up high. Of course I first need to patch, prime and paint that wall. I don't like my paint options at Home Depot, so I'm going to make a trip to Lowe's for some Olympic ONE soon. I want eggshell finish, in the Snow Storm color. Even though I'm priming with Kilz Original, I like the Olympic ONE paint and primer in one product. I used it in the laundry room.
I picked up the Home Depot order, and installed the 12 Cree BR30 LED bulbs. I then wired the feeder for this half of the garage. I now have reasonable automated lighting throughout the garage. I will not need the fluorescent lights very often, and the power consumption for the 24 LED lights is only 228 watts total. Since they are automatically turned on and off by the occupancy sensor, I also don't need to go to a light switch to turn them on or off. There is no light switch for these lights because I don't need one. The occupancy sensor works great, I've essentially completely forgotten about it because it just works.
I removed the tape from the remaining ceilign joints and cleaned the old failed joint compound out of all of them except the half of the last joint that isn't easy to get to at the moment (lots of stuff in that corner of the garage). Hopefully tomorrow night I can get some of the taping done.
I tried installing the reinforcements in the slatwall. It's not possible, which means they were a complete waste of money :-(. They just don't fit. If you try to force them in with a lot of hammering, they end up breaking the slatwall. The only way I could envision installing them would be to cut them in half lengthwise and install each half from the front. I'm not going to try, I've already wasted too much time on them.
What this means is that I'm back to square one on slatwall. I need the weight capacity of slatwall with slot reinforcements. Which means the sheets I have aren't useful to me on the walls of the garage. And one of them now needs to be cut down to less than 4' width to be useful at all.
I think I'm going to buy some Proslat slatwall instead. It's PVC which means it won't suffer from humidity, and it's strong. It's also lightweight and looks nice since the fasteners are all concealed. It also doesn't weigh a ton like wood slatwall, so it's easy to install and doesn't add a lot of load to the wall. $149 per 32 sq. ft. kit, and free shipping from Home Depot. And given that each section is installed individually, I don't need to do any horizontal cutting and I can easily install it alone.
As for the slatwall I already bought... I will find a use for it. I would not mind having some in the master bathroom closet, and a sheet on the wall in the stairwell to the basement would be very handy. I could also use some to make a rolling tool board and storage, though pegboard would work just as well.
I put tape and the first coat of setting-type joint compound on one of the short joints of the patch piece I had to put in the ceiling over the weekend (the spot I fell through). I need to clean the remaining joints in that area so I can tape and mud those as well.
I need to get some of the slatwall out of my way, so tomorrow I'll experiment with greasing the metal slot supports to install them. I was unable to install them dry, they get wedged tight about 12" into the slot.
I put another coat of joint compound on the patch on the wall shared with the laundry room. The joint compound doesn't particularly like to dry in the cold. I used the heat gun to get it started, and put a 500W halogen light near it to keep it going.
The Owens-Corning insulation calculator says I'll need about 30 bags of blown-in insulation to complete the attic. That comes to around $750. But before I do that, I need to create the storage area by using batts and laying down plywood, and creating a thin wall to keep the blown-in insulation off of the storage area. I'll likely just use 1/4" plywood ripped to 16" width.
Update: I managed to get the drywall replacement piece in place by myself. I wish I could have replaced the whole sheet, but I can't manage a full sheet of drywall over my head without a drywall jack and I'm not going to buy or rent a drywall jack for a single repair.
I'm sore from falling through the ceiling, but since I was cutting up a piece of drywall, I finally cut and attached a piece of drywall to the spot the previous owner had removed on the wall shared with the laundry room. I also taped and mudded it (first coat). I'm installing slatwall on this wall, so this patch doesn't need to be perfect; it just needs to be sealed up.
I almost finished wiring the recessed lights in the south half of the garage. The only thing remaining is to connect the feeder wire to the output of the occupancy sensor.
I removed the 8' long T12 HO fluorescent fixture near the attic stairs.
I cut all 12 holes for the recessed lights in the south half of the garage, and nailed 11 of the fixtures into place. I then removed the final 8' long T12 HO fixture. Finally I nailed the last recessed light fixture into place.
Given my back issues, this was very hard work. But I couldn't wait any longer, it's too cold in the attic at night to do this kind of work. So I had to do it during the day in order to not freeze. I'm taking a break to type this blog entry and rest my back.
The hardest part was the lights nearest the south wall, since there is no headroom there. It's not easy operating a large hole saw while carefully laying on your stomach on a 2' x 3' board on top of 2 x 4 truss bottoms. It's also not easy to swing a hammer in this position. But those fixtures are all in place now, I just need to wire them.
I will order 12 more of the Cree BR30 LED bulbs in 5000K temperature soon. It will be nice to have the lighting done and be close to ready for insulation. It has been very cold in the garage at night and it's only going to get colder for the next four to five months. I can't run a heater in there until the attic is insulated, since it would cause condensation problems if there is no insulation. It would also be nearly futile since there's no insulation over the garage.
I pulled the failing tape on some of the ceiling joints in the south half of the garage and scraped off some of the old joint compound. Tomorrow I hope to get started retaping these joints with setting-type joint compound.
I finished about 2/3 of the wiring of the recessed lights in the south half of the garage, including much of the difficult part (the cans with no room to work). I need to finish this work so I can seal the cans to the drywall. It will then be possible to insulate the garage attic, though I really should address the electrical issue with the circuit that's shared between the fluorescent lights and the outlets before I blow in insulation.
Of course, it's probably worth noting that I have not used the fluorescent lights since I put bulbs in the 12 recessed cans in the north half of the garage. It will likely turn out that I almost never use the fluorescent lights. The Cree BR30 LED lights are providing enough light to do most things in the garage. Given some task lighting, I suspect my use of the fluorescent lights will be rare.
I've had two people suggest that I put boxes over the recessed lights in the garage before insulating. I don't need them with the 9.5W LED bulbs. Their argument is that the next owner might replace the LED with hot incandescents. I don't see that happening. 100W incandescent bulbs were banned in 2012. 75W incandescents were banned in January 2013. 60W and 40W will be banned in 2014. It's federal law (Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007). And would anyone replace very good, long-lasting LED bulbs with incandescents or CFL? The bulbs I have installed should last more than 20 years. By then, the replacements will likely be brighter and use even less power. They will definitely be more efficient (lumens per watt), and probably have an improved CRI. LEDs have been improving rapidly, with both Philips and Cree leading the way. And unlike CFL, they like cold temperatures and start instantly. They're ideal for a garage in Michigan.
To take some measurements for my air drops, I suspended the overhead copper with a pair of the band clamps. I then cut a piece of 3/4" copper pipe for one of the drops: the piece from the overhead tee to the first ball valve. I then soldered a 3/4" sweat to 3/4" NPT fitting on this piece. I also cut a piece of 3/4" copper pipe for the piece after the second ball valve that leads to the automatic drain, and soldered a 3/4" sweat to 1/2" NPT piece on it (to connect to the automatic drain). I haven't decided how far off of the floor I want the drain, so this piece might get shortened later. Hence I haven't soldered the fitting on the other end yet.
I duplicated the input side plumbing I did the other night: the 3/4" sweat to 3/4" NPT fittings, the 3/4" NPT ball valves, a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" tee and a 1/2" sweat to NPT fitting to go into a filter/regulator. I need to duplicate this drop piping for one more hose reel, and duplicate the output side 2 more times.
I need to decide how to connect the compressor to the plumbing. If I use my existing connection, I'll have some restriction right out of the compressor since I have 3/8" fittings. I should probably change to a 1/2" coupling on the compressor (to 1/2" NPT), and put a 1/2" coupling on the end of the leader hose. I can then use a 1/2" male to 3/4" female NPT plug on the end of the copper piping (McMaster-Carr 6534K44). On the other hand, 3/4" NPT isn't very convenient if I ever need to replace the plug. 1/2" male coupling to 1/2" NPT is fine here, and I can put a 1/2" NPT male to 3/4" sweat adapter on the end of the copper.
Once the Zinsser B-I-N dried, I installed the FRP panel. It wasn't easy, since a full sheet of FRP isn't easy to handle on a ladder and it's difficult to put pressure on the roller when you're off the ground. It's not perfectly aligned with the panel below it, but it's close enough for my purposes. Of course I wish I had planned to install this piece when I installed the first panel so I could have used a panel-to-panel trim piece. But I'm OK with the final result, and the objective has been met (provide a robust, easy to clean surface underneath hanging lawn tools).
I later remounted the 84" long FastTrack, and also mounted a 32" one up high.
I did some more work on the air line plumbing. I soldered two 3/4" diameter 10' long pipes into a 3/4" tee and suspended it by setting it on my shelves above the garage doors. This was just to figure out where the drop between the garage doors can be located to avoid the electrical outlet in that wall. I'm going to put that drop to the left of the electrical outlet.
I soldered together a bit more of the piping for the second air drop. I put together the 1/2" side that has a valve for drainage or future expansion, a tee, a 1/2" pipe to NPT adapter from the regulator output, and a 5" section of pipe to another pipe to NPT adapter for the 2-port manifold. I also put together part of the 3/4" side: a pair of ball valves (one for the whole drop and one for the automatic drain), a 3/4" to 1/2" tee between them, and a 1/2" sweat to NPT adapter to connect the filter and regulator. I used sweat the thread adapter on the pipe leading to the valves as well, so I didn't have to heat up the valves with the torch.
I ordered some silicone-cushioned band clamps from a< href="http://www.mcmaster.com">McMaster-Carr to support the air pipe. I also ordered 45-degree 3/8" NPT male to female elbows to use on the air hose reels, and a pack of UV-resistant cable ties. I to use a somewhat temporary mounting of the pipe for now, since I expect to need to move it in the spring to finish ceiling drywall joint repair in the south half of the garage. I don't expect to get that work done this year, but we'll see.
Tomorrow I'm going to clean up a bunch of things in the garage and shuffle things around a bit so I can do the drywall patch work on the wall shared with the laundry room and start shoring up the drywall and installing the recessed lights on that side of the garage.
Later I sanded this joint and applied the second coat of joint compound. This coat will be sufficient under the FRP once it dries and is sanded. However, there's a bit of it that will not be covered by FRP, near the window. I may need a third coat there, even though that drywall corner will eventually get corner protection.
I need to remove the rickety shelf on the east wall in the north half of the garage and spackle the holes. Eventually, ClosetMaid Maximum Load shelves will be installed here, up high. But the shelf that's installed right now is mounted too low, very warped, too shallow, and looks awful.
I got home very late, but I managed to install the FRP panel below the window. I also assembled the two new leader hoses for the air hose reels. Each leader hose is 1/2" in diameter and 5' long, with a 3/8" male coupler on one end and a 3/8" female push-on coupler on the other end. Some would say I've gone overboard with couplers, but I've always done my leader hoses in this manner because it allows for easy disconnection at either end of the hose (with the rest of the air system remaining pressurized), and allows for easy hose replacement should one ever spring a leak or be damaged. Planning up front reduces my future downtime and frustration.
In addition to the leader hoses, I received the M10 carriage bolts to assemble the third hose reel mount.
I've concluded that I don't really need an elbow at the inlet to the hose reel between the garage doors, but it would be nice. I definitely need one for the hose reel at the north end of the garage, and I will need one for the reel at the south end of the garage.
I need to remember to add some tools I need to my tools wish list. I will soon desperately need the Bosch 4100-09 table saw that's been on my wish list for years. I also need an air chisel and a pneumatic needle scaler for some car and tractor work.
Couplers and related parts arrived from McMaster-Carr. I also received M10 locknuts and M10 stainless steel washers, but the M10 carriage bolts were shipped separately and have not yet arrived. I need them to assemble the third air hose reel mount. The lead hoses for the hose reels were also shipped separately and have not arrived yet. I suspect those were the holdup on the second part of my order; I think they're made-to-order.
I moved the remaining recessed light fixtures into the garage attic.
I swept enough of the floor to make room to cut FRP. I cut the piece of FRP for the spot below the window. I shored up the drywall under the window (it had nowhere near the required number of drywall nails at the base plate), sanded the compound I had used to patch a big dent in it weeks ago, and washed the wall and the back of the FRP. I cut two of the three cap trim pieces for the panel. Tomorrow I'll cut the third piece of cap trim, slightly trim the length of the FRP panel (it's about 1/4" longer than I'd like), mark the location of the studs, and adhere the FRP and cap trim to the wall. I need to buy some more DAP 3.0 clear caulk to seal the cap trim to the wall and the FRP to the cap trim.
Tomorrow I want to move a bunch of things to the basement that are in my way:
I then want to cut and install an FRP panel below the window. 26.25" x 96". I also want to cut one for above the first yard tool piece, and one for above the second yard tool piece. And finally cut one for the location between the garage doors.
I drilled the holes in the two sandwiched pieces of plywood that hold carriage bolts for the reel. I then applied wood glue between the pieces and then bolted the reel to them while the glue sets up. I should not have used 1/2" carriage bolts; they were a VERY tight fit in the reel mounting plate, I'm not sure I'll ever get the reel off of them without a pry bar. I had to hammer it on, and that was after reaming the holes in the hose reel mounting plate a bit. Of course, I wanted 7/16" carriage bolts, but Home Depot did not have them. I'm going to use M10 carriage bolts on the next one, which I ordered from McMaster-Carr. I also ordered locknuts and washers, some of the couplers I need to connect the hose reels, two 5' long rubber leader hoses for the hose reels, and some brass compression tube fittings to connect tubing to the automatic drains (which will eventually be run to the outdoors). I thought I had added tubing to my cart, but I missed it. Not a big deal, I'll order some later. I should probably order NPT to barbed fittings while I'm at it, in case I don't want to use compression fittings and hard tubing. Say McMaster-Carr 5346K17.
I drilled 5/16" holes in the top piece of 3/4" plywood for the second hose reel and mounted it to the ceiling.
I started building the ceiling mounts for the remaining cord reels. I considered just using Unistrut since it would be much faster, but I prefer the look I've acheived with the plywood mounts. I cut the 6 pieces I need to mount the remaining two overhead self-retracting reels. I marked the hole pattern for one of them. The other reel is still on my reel cart that I plan to decommission or retask and I'm not sure the hole pattern is the same.
I mounted the junction boxes in the attic for the Leviton OSC20-M0W and OSP20-D0. They're mounted flush with the ceiling drywall, and I drilled the hole through the ceiling drywall for the OSC20-M0W wiring.
Sigh, the garage has poor electrical distribution for a garage. The previous owner tapped the circuit for electrical outlets to feed the HO fluorescent lighting. This is bad because that lighting totals 880 watts, which means you can't really run a significant power tool and the lighting at the same time. I will need to address this problem later (moving the unused, incorrectly wired subpanel from the basement to the garage would be a good idea). In the meantime, I am feeding the new recessed lighting (which is a small load) from the garage door opener circuit. The feed is wired from the south opener's outlet, and I wired the 3 rows of lights on the north side of the garage together and ran the wire to the new junction box.
Late at night I wired the remainder of the recessed lighting to see how much light I get from the Cree BR30 9.5W 5000K LED bulbs in the recessed fixtures and to test the Leviton OSC20-M0W. I like the lighting, and if I had installed a handful more, I could probably have ditched the fluorescent lights. But what I have will work great for the intended purpose: enough light to easily find things in the garage at night and well-lit conditions when getting in and out of the cars. And the OSC20-M0W is fantastic. The range covers the whole garage, and it's sentitive enough to stay on regardless of where I am in the garage. Tomorrow I'll button up the junction boxes until I install the lights in the south half of the garage, and remove the bulbs and trim rings so I can prime and paint the ceiling in the north half of the garage. I might get started on removing the plywood in the garage attic and start putting in the lights for the south half of the garage.
My back actually appreciated the hard work crawling around in the warm/hot attic. I suspect it was all about the stretching, not the heat, since heat has generally aggravated it in the past and the hot shower yesterday morning gave me trouble.
I can't drive at the moment since the spasms escalate when I sit in the driver seat of my car and I can't depress my clutch or brake pedal without uncontrollable spasms. Sent email to work once I could get to my computer (second floor and stairs are a b**ch). Hopefully I can loosen it up enough to get to work this afternoon since I need to fetch a requirements document and get going on an interface specification. I _think_ I'll be able to drive in an hour or two.
The first 12 Cree BR30 5000K LED bulbs arrived for the recessed lighting.
My back problem flared up last night, and I'm sort of out of commission. It had been at least a year since I had an issue, but today was a lot of pain and hence I'm tired. I sanded ceiling joint #4, which will need some touch up tomorrow. It took all I had to just sand this one joint, my back is killing me. Ceiling joints #4, #5, #14 and #15 are hence still in progress.
On Friday I hope to nearly finish the ceiling joints in the north half of the garage. If my back feels better, I also hope to install the Leviton OSC20-M0W and OSP20-D0 and wire the feeds for the three rows of recessed lights in the north half of the garage. Each row of four lights are already wired to each other.
I reinstalled the second 8' long T12 HO fluorescent light with the new electronic ballast on the north half of the garage. I consider these ballasts a tradeoff. They produce a lot more RFI than the old magnetic ballasts, making radio reception near impossible when they're on. But they're audibly silent. Given that a lot of my live radio listening these days is streamed over the Internet, it's a tradeoff I'm willing to make. And I will not have them on all of the time once I complete the installation of the recessed lighting.
I know a lot of people consider recessed lights evil. And they are from an HVAC perspective. That's why I bought IC-rated air-tight fixtures. Yes, they'll still leak some air between the fixture and the drywall, and they're not absolutely air-tight. But the holes I cut for them are very snug, and I can caulk the gap if desired. More importantly... in a garage, I like to have lights that are flush with the ceiling. It greatly reduces the chances of breaking a bulb when handling long pieces of dimensional lumber, pipe or whatever. It also gives me several more inches of clearance for a car lift.
The Leviton OSC20-M0W and OSP20-D0 arrived from Amazon. I need to buy a few junction boxes and more wire to get started on the installation. The first set of twelve Cree BR30 5000K LED bulbs should arrive tomorrow and I'm somewhat anxious to see what the lighting looks like in the north half of the garage. It's one thing to know the lumens/sq.ft., it's another to actually experience it. This isn't going to be work lighting, it's just everyday lighting (operated solely by the OSC20-M0W, no light switch).
The 3/4" threaded ball valves and fittings I need for my air drops arrived from McMaster-Carr, along with some military grade premium pipe thread tape in light green.
I took a slight break from garage work to listen to the last 2 innings of the Detroit Tigers game (ALDS game 4); the Tigers are down 2-1 in the series and hence this was an elimination game.
I then sanded the second coat of joint compound on ceiling joints #4, #5 and #14. I sanded the first coat of joint compound on joint #15. Tomorrow night I'll put another coat of joint compound on these joints, along with the wall joint above the north garage. Once these joints have their final coat of joint comopound and are sanded, I can prime all remaining joints in the north half of the garage and call that half done in terms of ceiling joint repair. I can then prime and paint the ceiling in that half of the garage. The other half is probably going to have to wait for the springtime.
Tonight I realized that the wall between the garage doors is severely bowed. At the moment I'm not sure why, since the drywall is in place. It might just be from settling. But it throws a wrench in my plan to mount stainless steel pegboard on that wall. I can of course shim it, but we're talking about 3/4" or more of bowing. It has me thinking that I should remove a section of the drywall to see what's going on, or at least be prepared to do so. I can of course just put thick furring strips (probably 2x2 poplar) on the drywall, which might not be such a bad idea; it would let me conceal some of the air piping. behind it and hence allow me to use more of the pegboard.
I sanded the first coat of joint compound on ceiling drywall joints #4, #5 and #14. I removed the failed tape and compound from joint #15. I taped and mudded joint #15 and put a second coat of compound on joints #4, #14 and most of #5. I'm calling joints #1, #10 and #11 done as far as joint compound is concerned. They just need some Zinsser B-I-N.
I received a shipping confirmation from diamondlifegear.com for the 4 small pieces of stainless steel pegboard that I ordered. It will arrive tomorrow.
I downloaded the installation instructions for the Leviton OSC20-M0W occupancy sensor and put it in my Manuals collection.
Amazon says the OSC20-M0W and OSP20-D0 should arrive on Wednesday.
I sanded the second coat of joint compound on ceiling joint #10. I may or may not put a third coat of joint compound on this joint. I need to see it during daylight hours since it's above the window.
I taped and mudded ceiling joints #5 and #14 with setting-type joint compound.
I sanded and sealed ceiling joint #3; it is now done. I sealed joint #1 except near joint #10 since I'm not sure I'm done with joint compound there.
As an aside, the Zinsser B-I-N continues to impress me. It dries fast and hard, and seals very well. If it were not so expensive, I'd prime the whole garage with it instead of just using it to seal my joint compound and wood. On the other hand, until I have the garage heated regularly, shellac based primer like B-I-N would be a bad idea for large surfaces since it's brittle compared to latex and oil based primers. I'm only using it to spot-prime the joint compound.
I ordered the Leviton OSC20-M0W occupancy sensing switch and OSP20-D0 power pack from Amazon. This is for the recessed lighting.
I also ordered twelve of the Cree BR30 5000K LED bulbs for the recessed lighting. I will need twelve more once I install the remaining recessed lights, but I want to get one half of the garage lit soon so I can stop using the power-hungry fluorescent lights all of the time.
I installed the metal-reinforced edge trim on the exposed steel angle of the garage door tracks. This will protect my ceiling-mounted air hoses from being scraped by the steel angle if the hose whips around when retracting and when I pull hard on the hose at a severe angle.
I ordered some more valves and fittings for my air supply from McMaster-Carr. This time I ordered threaded valves. After last night's soldering, I've decided I just don't enjoy the care required to solder valves with 95/5 solder. You have to be very careful with the torch to not cook the PTFE ball seal. I don't think I cooked the ones I soldered last night, but I don't have the time to be doing a bunch of these.
I shored up the drywall around another 18' long ceiling joint, and taped and mudded a little more than half of it. Unfortunately I can't do the whole joint at once due to space constraints. I'll do the remainder tomorrow.
I taped and mudded a very bad joint above the northmost garage door. This joint had a 1/2" gap between the sheets of drywall. My new shelving is in the way of doing the finish coats, I'll need to take that shelf down to complete the job.
I sanded the second coat of joint compound on another 10' ceiling joint. This joint will need a third coat of joint compound.
I put the second coat of joint compound on the ceiling joint above the window. This joint was tricky due to a very uneven intersection with the very first joint I had done. It won't be perfect no matter what I do, I have to keep reminding myself that it's a garage and that my main objective is to seal the joints to prevent air and moisture from entering the attic. I was hoping to finish the joint compound work in this half of the garage this weekend, but it's not going to happen.
I created a diagram showing all of the ceiling drywall joints, mostly so I can keep track of my progress. Right now, joint #2 is done. Joints #1 and #3 are mostly done. Joint #11 is done except near joint #10. I'm working on joints #10, #3 and #4. I'd like to get the initial mud and tape in the rest of joint #4, joint #14 and joint #5 tomorrow. However, joints 14 and 5 have not been cleaned of the original compound yet. I'd also like to get the rest of joint #1 and joint #3 sealed with Zinsser B-I-N tomorrow.
I need to decide what I'm going to do with the output of my automatic drains on the air drops. I'm not excited about having buckets under them. I think I'd like to put compression adapter fittings on them and run the tubes through the wall to the outdoors. No space consumed in the garage, and no buckets to tip over.
The hose reels and filter/regulator combos arrives from Northern Tool. Automatic drains, 3/4" ball valves, 1/2" ball valves, solder, flux, edge trim (to protect my air hoses from garage door angle iron) and a slew of plumbing fittings arrived from McMaster-Carr.
I started a bit of the copper pipe soldering for the air drops, just so I could get a feel for the flux and solder I'm using and figure out how narrow I can make the drops to conserve wall space. In doin this, I realized I should probably buy more 3/4" ball valves so I can individually disable each drop and also shut off the automatic drains individually for servicing. Of course, as it stands today, I've never had water reach my tools since I have an automatic drain on my tank, another automatic drain on the drip leg near my tank, and the Milton filter that drains when pressure drops below 5 PSI.
I sanded the first coat of joint compound on a third joint. I then put the second coat of joint compound on it.
I taped and mudded the 4' long joint near the window.
I added some of the remaining parts to the air plumbing wish list. Lead hoses, couplers, and the 3/4" and 1/2" copper pipe that I need. I need to add some elbows and figure out how I'm going to connect the compressor. I think I have most of what I need on hand to connect the compressor, it's just a matter of the plumbing configuration.
Tonight I sanded the second coat of joint compound on another ceiling joint. This particular joint will need a third coat, which I'll do with pre-mixed joint compound.
I do not have any shipping status from diamondlifegear.com on my stainless steel pegboard order. Kind of disappointing that an online store doesn't provide order status. Hence I can't complete my plan for the bit of wall space between the garage doors. I need to have parts in hand to decide how that wall will be laid out. I may not put much FRP on it if I decide I'm going to have some of the stainless steel pegboard mounted there.
The ATR19S-SO air tool holders, ten extra ATRA-12 swivel adapters to place on my tools for the holders, and a DAHLDR2-RED air sander holder arrived from VIM Tools. I'm not ready to install them yet.
I ordered four 3' x 2' stainless steel pegboards with backing board from diamondlifegear.com. Two of these will likely go between the garage doors. The other two will likely go on the garage door wall, south of the south garage door. They were not cheap, but I will definitely use them.
I also ordered two Milton 1108 air/filter regulators, another 50' ReelWorks air hose reel with 50' of 3/8" rubber hose, two Milton M-style safety couplers, two more telescopic air blow guns, and a manual air hose reel from Northern Tool. The manual reel will hold 100' of 3/8" hose, though I don't expect to put 3/8" hose on it. I'm expecting to put 1/2" hose on it for the times I need to extend a lot of hose outdoors.
Given that some of my air tool hangers arrive tomorrow, I'm going to take a short break from drywall tomorrow to install two or three pieces of FRP panel. Today I cut one of the pieces: the one that will protect the wall beneath the Rubbermaid FastTrack rail that holds my yard tools. I need to cut a second piece for that area, to go between the edge of the garage door and the north wall. Another piece will be used to protect the wall between the garage doors where I intend to install some air tool hangers.
USA Insulation was here for an estimate to insulate the garage ceiling. I'm happy with the estimate, but I won't be executing it for at least a few weeks.
I taped and mudded two more 10' long ceiling joints. They'll need sanding and a second coat, of course. I also pulled the loose tape from an 18' joint, and cleaned about 1/3 of it. There's another one of these to be done, and then I can tape and mud the remainder of the north side of the garage ceiling.
Tonight I intend to start ordering parts to plumb for air. Tomorrow I'll probably borrow mom's truck and pick up the copper pipe and maybe some more FRP panels. I need 5 10' long pieces of 1/2" pipe and 9 10' long pieces of 3/4" pipe.
I finally cut up and threw out the three big boxes that were laying on the floor: the boxes for the washer and dryer and the box for the laundry room cabinet.
I didn't get much done for the last two days due to dealing with Comcast problems (my service was down for 5 days and there was the usual trail of fiascos: different story every time I called, which was different from what the automated system was telling me, and as usual the technicians didn't show up for scheduled appointments (first on Saturday September 21 at 2PM, then on Tuesday September 24 at 4PM). They wound up sending an escalation technician after I kept complaining, but he couldn't get here until 9PM. He was here until 2AM last night running new RG-11 cable all the way from the road to the back of the house (over 300 feet), then new cable in the basement since it previously entered the front of the house and I did not want to move my server rack and my modular wiring box that feeds the rooms in the house. While my Internet connection is now working, there are still some issues they need to address at the road. Tests look OK at low and high frequencies with a new amplifier installed in the basement, but middle frequencies (for video services) are still down a lot (like 30dB). Thankfully I'm not using television services at all at this point, but I will be in the future. Once the line technicians fix the issue at the road, I'll probably call the tech back to check my signal strength in the basement. It might wind up way too hot at the low and high frequencies with the amplifier installed. Unlike the zany previous owner, I won't have cable going to every room in the house. I don't need cable in my kitchen, for example.
I removed the second fluorescent light in the north half of the garage, and removed its ballast. Like the first light, this one will get a new electronic 0F-rated ballast. It saves a lot of weight, and I'm growing very tired of the buzzing noise of the remaining magnetic ballasts.
I shored up some of the sagging drywall with new drywall screws, then tapped in the popped nails with a nail set. Hopefully they won't pop up again. They hadn't come out far enough to pull them without damaging the drywall, and they're rusty so they probably won't come out easily. I still can't believe how few nails are in the garage ceiling drywall; nowhere near enough to meet code requirements.
I was hoping to do some taping and mudding tonight, but it took too long to remove the loose mud in the damaged joints.
I ordered a few things from the Red Hot Deals at VIM Tools: four more ATR19S-SO air tool holders, ten extra ATRA-12 swivel adapters to place on my tools for the holders, and a DAHLDR2-RED air sander holder. I've had one of the ATR19S-SO holders for ages and I really like it. At $11.50 with 5 swivel adapters, they're a steal. I'll likely mount two of them on the wall near my existing air hose reel, and the other two on my air tool cart if I don't ditch it in the name of saving space.
I've decided I'm going to mount two more air hose reels, one at each end of the garage. I don't frequently need more than one air tool at a time, but sometimes I do. More importantly, this is a convenience thing; when there are cars in the garage, it's not always easy to pull an air hose from a single location. By having all 3 reels near the same wall, the plumbing is straightforward.
With the dock fan on high and my portable dual fan stand at the garage door threshold, I sanded the 10' drywall joint that I had mudded on the 18th. I then put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N over the sanded joint compound to seal it from moisture until I get around to priming the whole ceiling with KILZ Original oil-based primer.
Sanding the ceiling by hand is exhausting. To sand two of the other joints, I used my palm sander. It's a bit heavy to be holding over my head for long periods of time, but it saves a lot of time. I sealed these joints with Zinsser B-I-N.
I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to 2' x 3' and mounted it to the ceiling between the garage doors with six 3" long Spax lag screws and four 2.5" long deck screws. I then mounted my 1.5" thick plywood block for my air hose reel to the aforementioned plywood, then mounted the hose reel to the 1.5" thick block. It seems very solid, but only time will tell. I liker this location because it's the center of the garage north-to-south, and with 50' of hose, I can easily get air to any location in the garage from here. I can also easily get air outside from here. The only downside is that if I pull hard to the north or south, there is the possibility of the hose scraping the edge of the angle iron for the garage door tracks. The easy solution to this problem is edge trim on the angle iron. I'll order some from McMaster-Carr.
I have not plumbed for air yet, having not decided if I want copper or black iron or RapidAir.Given that the cord reel I bought the other day from Home Depot is broken, I'm not going to mount it to the ceiling. It looks like I'll invest in a beefier one, probably with 12/3 wire.
I sanded the joints on the ceiling near the area where the fluorescent light was installed. I then primed these spots with two coats of Zinsser B-I-N. I reinstalled the 8' long T12 HO fluorescent light, with the new electronic ballast installed. Unlike the previous homeowner, I put the screws into the joists above the ceiling so it will not pull the drywall off of the ceiling. I like the new electronic ballast; it will work in very cold temperatures, it's silent, and it weighs a lot less than the old ballast.
The drywall joints on the ceiling that I've redone look quite good. I have a lot more to do, and it's slow going, but at least it's turning out nicely. Of course, to keep them that way, I need to get oil-based primer on the ceiling and insulation in the attic.
I installed one of the pegboard panels in the stairwell to the basement. I then installed four of my spraycan racks on it.
I gathered the parts to install my dock fan. Given the location of electrical outlets in the garage, there's really only one place to put it: east of the window, near the stairwell to the garage. This is a good thing, it will allow me to draw air from the basement when I want to exhaust dust from the garage. I will probably install the fan late tonight, since it's been in my way on the garage floor for a long time.
I started sanding more of the ceiling joint compound, in preparation for another round of taping and mudding. I'm trying to finish the northeast part of the ceiling so I can put the fluorescent light back in place. I'm not aiming for perfection here, I just want the attic to be sealed off from the garage better than it was with all of the failed joints. So far the setting-type compound is working well for that purpose. It'll be better once I have some decent primer on and get the recessed lights fully installed.
I put a second coat of mud on more of the ceiling joints. I used pre-mixed joint compound on one, mostly due to not feeling like mixing more of the setting-type compound. I'm not worried about moisture causing a problem here, since the first coat was setting-type compound and I intend to use KILZ Original primer on the ceiling, which is oil-based and works very well at sealing out moisture.
I installed the final shelf above the south garage door.
I forgot to buy some replacement springs for my recessed light housings; one was missing in the shipment from platt.com due to poor packing. I also forgot to buy a drywall sanding tool with vacuum attachment. I'll get these tomorrow so I can start sanding the first pass of joint compound and start the second pass.
I taped and mudded a few more of the joints in the garage using the setting-type joint compound. I sanded the joint above the south garage door and applied the first coat of primer to it (Zinsser B-I-N). Tomorrow I'll put the second coat of primer on it so I can install the second shelf above that door.
I cut the wood for two of my pegboard frames. I assembled one of the pegboards on its frame. I'll assemble the second one tomorrow. One of these will hold some of my spraypaint can racks, and probably be mounted in the stairwell to the basement from the garage. It will not be heavily loaded, and I don't need spraypaint, Rust Encapsulator, undercoating, etc. very often. And I'd rather have it in a climate controlled environment.
My Internet connection is down, so I can't check the stock levels at Menard's for the Rubbermaid Tough Stuff shelving. However, I've concluded that it's not as strong as the ClosetMaid Maximum Load. In fact it's not even as strong as the regular ClosetMaid stuff. The brackets are OK, but the shelves themselves are fairly flimsy in comparison (much thinner wire lengthwise). Hence for the shelves above my workbenches, I'm probably going to use ClosetMaid. I'm OK with the Rubbermaid Tough Stuff over the garage doors, since they're 20" deep and I need the depth for some things.
Screws and spacers arrived for building and mounting framed pegboard panels.
I scraped more of the old joint compound off of the ceiling, and put the first coat of mud and tape on another joint (a 10' section). I think I now have a pretty good idea of how much of the setting-type mud I can mix at a time and use before it becomes unworkable: about 4 cups. I could do a lot more if I was working on scaffolding or drywall stilts, but I'm using a ladder and spending a lot of time moving the ladder. The joint I filled tonight was a disaster due to poor drywall installation; there was a 1/2" gap along most of the 10' span.
I'm a little bit sidetracked tonight by iOS 7. I'm patiently waiting for the download and installation to finish on my iPhone.
I also put the second coat of mud on the small section of the ceiling I worked on yesterday, and the first coat on a nearby section. I don't expect these areas to remain uncracked either, but the original tape had no mud under the tape in several areas.
I moved one of my computer racks to the basement. It's been in my way sine I bought the house. I will move the other one to the basement tomorrow. Not so easy doin it alone, but it's manageable.
I put some drywall screws in the ceiling drywall in the northeast quadrant of the garage, wherever it was obvious that the drywall was loose. This is in preparation to tape and mud the drywall joints that have failed (which is all of them in this quadrant). I expect to do a decent amoun of taping and mudding in this part of the garage over the next 2 days.
I removed the hooks that were screwed into the ceiling between the garage doors. I'll be putting a cord reel and air hose reel here. It's a good spot for them since it's the center of the garage from north to south and overhead space is already constrained here by the garage door tracks. I need to add an outlet in the ceiling for the cord reel. In all likelihood I'll just branch from one of the garage door opener outlets, sine those are the only things on that circuit and I won't be opening and closing garage doors while operating anything connected to the cord reel.
On Saturday the 28th, USA Insulation is coming out to help me figure out what to do with garage attic insulation. I want closed-cell foam to be sprayed in, but I know it's not cheap. However, it's the best route to a reasonable R-value at low thickness. The main issue here is the fact that I'm not done planning electrical work in the attic.
I ordered 24 steel slot reinforcements for my slatwall panels. This is enough to do every other slot. I don't need reinforcements in every slot. These will be delivered to my local Do-it-Best hardware store and I'll pick them up there. Avoids the shipping cost.
I also ordered screws to build my pegboard frames and screws and spacers to mount them to the walls. I need to do this soon, I have a lot of tools that I previously had hung on pegboard, which currently have no home.
I went to Home Depot and bought a bunch of supplies for various projects. A sheet of 5/8" drywall to replace the sheet destroyed by the previous owner's dryer duct hackery, four sheets of textured FRP for drywall protection in various places, a large bucket of FRP adhesive, 16 Spax 5/16" diameter 3.5" long corrosion-resistant lag screws, two more 2' x 4' pieces of 3/4" thick B/C plywood, four pieces of 2' x 4' pegboard, six 8' long 1x2 pieces of select pine to mount pegboard, twelve cap mouldings for FRP panels, a Husky 50' cord reel, two gallons of Kilz Original oil-based primer, a small bucket to mix setting-type joint compound, and a couple more economy-grade paint brushes.
I put two coats of Zinsser B-I-N on the four pieces of 2' x 4' x 3/4" sanded plywood. I know I'm going to cut these pieces, but I figured I might as well get a head start on priming them and I used the B-I-N because it's better than anything else for priming wood.
I adjusted the torsion springs on the south door and replaced the old door rollers with new 13-ball nylon rollers. The door is now quiet and smooth.
I cut twelve more pieces of Rubbermaid Tough Stuff upright to mount the shelves above the south garage door. I mounted six of them to the wall and installed one of the shelves.
I also need to officially mount the control pads on the wall by the door to the house; I have the one for the north door just temporarily mounted at the moment. And I need to install the keypads outside.
I am preparing to order G-Floor for the garage floor. I wanted to wait to do this, but Home Depot has a really good price right now on what I want (hundreds of dollars cheaper than anywhere else): 9' x 44' industrial grade coin pattern in slate gray. I also need to be realistic: if I wait, winter is going to make a complete mess of the concrete floor from parking a wet, snowy, muddy car. Two of these will cover the entire garage floor. I will buy edge trim this time, instead of using tape to mate pieces together. The industrial grade is 13% thicker than what I've used before, which will help prevent stretching from jacking cars. I may later put RibTrax on top of it, but having something that makes spills easy to clean is a very good thing.
I removed the old garage door opener's header bracket from the wall above the south garage door. It was installed directly on the drywall, not recommended. The lag screws holding it were loose, probably due to compression of the drywall. I cut two pieces of 3/4" thick oak plywood as a pad and used 3" long lag screws to hold the first one to the stud behind the drywall. The second piece of oak plywood is screwed to the first with deck screws. I then used lag screws to mount the bracket for the new garage door opener to the second piece of oak plywood. It should be plenty solid. Note that unlike the north door, this bracket is centered on a wall stud. Since I didn't want a 33.5" log support piece up there, I opted for about 8" of width for the plywood pieces. Given that I'll be mounting the opener motor to the ceiling in a much firmer manner than the previous owner, and installing all new 13-ball rollers, I think it will be good for a very long time.
The trim rings for the recessed lighting shipped today and should arrive next Wednesday. I picked out the motion detection unit and power pack that I want to use to operate the recessed lights, but have not ordered it yet. I need to look at the installation instructions to figure out where I should place it, keeping in mind that I intend to insulate the garage ceiling and that I need to hang hose reels and a garage heater from the ceiling. A garage heater will pose two problems: it will block the infrared vision of the unit and when on it will likely trip the ultrasonic sensing of the unit.
I installed one of the 84" Rubbermaid FastTrack rails and got most of my yard tools off of the floor.
I removed the south garage door opener. It has not been functional since I purchased the home, and Iv'e had the replacement (new, still boxed) for months. It's time to start installing it.
I disassembled both of the old garage door openers and put them in the trash. I have no idea if my trash collection service will take them, but it was worth a try.
I also bought two 84" long Rubbermaid FastTrack rails, another FastTrack power tool holder, a pair of FastTrack ladder hooks, a pair of FastTrack multi-purpose hooks, a pair of FastTrack hose hooks and a pair of FastTrack dual handle hooks. I'm sure I'll buy more, but Combined with the FastTrack kits I bought from Menard's, I think this is a good start. It will let me get many items off of the floor without impinging on garage space as much as shelves.
Speaking of shelves, I installed the second shelf above the north garage door tonight. I'm liking this storage since it's out of the way but I can easily see what's up there. I will be buying more of these shelves in the future, to go above my tool cabinets.
Tomorrow I hope to start working on the installation of the second garage door opener. I need to finish that before I install the shelves above that door. I also need to start doing some of the drywall joint repairs, but it was too hot tonight and will be too hot tomorrow to work with setting-type joint compound.
I cut some 25" pieces from the Tough Stuff 70" uprights with my chop saw. These 25" pieces are to mount a single shelf above one of the garage doors. For now I've only cut enough to install one of the 96" shelves, so I can get an idea of what the 20" shelves will look like in this location. I have ceiling and wall finish work to do, so I can't leave the shelves loaded up for long. But once I have more of them up, I can use them to move things around to make working in the garage easier.
After mounting the uprights, I put 20" shelf brackets in and placed a shelf on them. At the moment, I like the 20" deep shelves here. This is space that is typically not utilized. I have of course seen many examples, this idea isn't original. Many examples show a much larger loft, hung from the rafters. Given that I intend to have a car lift, I don't want the ceiling lowered for more than a small amount. This is why I might eventually wind up with 16" shelves instead of 20" shelves here. I will eventually have a separate 20' x 20' garage built to house a lift and my automotive tools (and the lawn tractor), but I intend to always have a MaxJax in the main garage.
The slatwall from Menard's is the Anchor Core slatwall from Wind Mill, redistributed by garageescape.com. I can buy reinforcing inserts for it at Do-It-Best, though they don't seem to have it in stock (I need to order it for pickup in the store). I will probably cover many of the walls with slatwall, since it gives me a lot of options for hanging things as well as rearranging as needed. That included cabinets.
I put drywall screws in a bit more of the drywall that had sagged. I still have a lot of work to do on this front.
This lighting may seem like overkill, but I consider it a necessity. This will be the everyday lighting, and I want Julie to be able to see well when she pulls into the garage. Her vehicle is tall, and will block most of the light from the garage door openers. That's one of the reasons I crawled around on my hands and knees with no head room to get the cans in near the north edge of the garage. Those will light a path for walking even if she is parked in the northmost parking spot in the garage. The two rows of lights near the center of the garage are a little closer together than others to give more light on the typical path from the door to the house to the outdoors.
I have decided that I'm going to use heavy-duty wall-mounted wire shelving at about 8' height around much of the perimeter of the garage, including above the garage doors. This will give me a lot of storage space for things I don't use frequently, without infringing on space for tool cabinets, vehicles and walking.
I need to do something about my old workbench. It's too long to use anywhere in the garage, but I like its design. I'm not sure whether or not it can be transported to the basement, it's tall. If not, I will likely cut it in half and make two 4' long workbenches.
I spent an hour removing one of the pieces of plywood from the roof trusses so I can install more of the recessed light fixtures. I carefully pried it up one nail at a time. For the other pieces, I think I'll use my oscillating tool to cut the nail heads off. It will save a lot of time, and time is worth more than the plywood I was trying to save.
I submitted a request for information on closed-cell foam insulation to USA Insulation. It's what I would prefer to use in the garage attic. Though I know it's expensive, it yields a much higher R-value per inch than my other options, and it's much less affected by moisture. Since I intend to install a natural gas garage heater at some point, I need insulation; it's not optional. I also want to retain some of the garage attice storage space, and since the trusses are 2x4 construction on 24" centers, I don't have the space for a lot of depth. However, I could feasibly use the closed cell foam only in the areas where I want to keep storage floor, and blow in cellulose everywhere else. The main issue there is the 24" centers; the drywall won't hold a lot of mass. Especially since it wasn't installed correctly in the first place. There are about half the number of nails that there should be, maybe less. With nails, there should be a nail about every 7 inches. In most of the drywall, there's a nail every 16 to 20 inches. Yikes, this wouldn't even be OK with drywall screws. With all of the other issues, it's no wonder that the drywall joints are failing.
I also bought some new work electrical outlet boxes, some electrical outlets (GFCI and non-GFCI), some wall plates for the outlets, some 1x2 poplar, some Strong-Tie #10x2.5" screws and some 3M Extreme mounting tape. The mounting tape is unrelated to the garage; it's for mounting my Kresto dispensers in the laundry room and/or kitchen.
The new ballasts fit fine in the old fixtures. They are much lighter in weight, which will make it easier to remoun the fixtures.
I broke one of the bulb connectors when installing a new ballast in one of the old fixtures. I could not find any of my super glue, so I used Loctite 325. I don't know if it'll work, but I suspect it will. The part that broke is part of the wire guide, and not part of the bulb retention. It is not exposed to much force.
I spackled the holes in the ceiling the previous owner made for his toggle bolts. They'll take a while to dry, since they were almost 1" in diameter.
I moved a few more items to the basement to make more room to work in the garage.
I think I've completed the layout for the recessed lighting. I cut the holes for two of them, and installed the cans in the ceiling. Very easy with the hole saw for recessed lighting.
I removed the tape and some of the mud from this joint and another, then drove some drywall screws in a few places just to get an idea whether or not I can get the drywall back into a position I can accept. I think it's OK, but it's going to take a decent amount of work to retape and mud the joints. I'm not going to do that work until I have the recessed lights positioned and some insulation installed. Otherwise I'll just be risking cracking the joints when I'm working in the attic.
I'm going to firmly attach the new fluorescent lights to the ceiling instead of using the included hanging chains, but I'll space them from the ceiling with some oak pieces just so they aren't flush mounted. The instructions don't say whether or not it's acceptable to flush mount them, but I think it's wise to allow a small amount of air to pass over the top of the ballast housing.
I disassembled one of the new Lithonia Lighting 1284GRD RE lights I bought at Home depot. I could hardwire them if desired, but I think I'll use the cords. The 8' lights that were poorly hung in the garage were concealing outlet boxes. So all I need is the outlets (preferably GFCI), and I can simply plug in the new lights. That will make it easier to replace them in the future if necessary or desired.
I spent a few hours creating a rough drawing of a top view of the garage ceiling so I can plan my lighting layout. It's unfortunate that the pull-down stairs for the garage attic conflict with a good plan for the number of fluorescent lights I want to install; it's right where I'd like one of the lights. I could move it, but that would mean more ceiling drywall and trim work that I'm loathe to do right now. Given that I'm increasing the lumens of fluorescent light in the garage from 70,400 to 94,400, I think I'll be OK with one light being a couple feet away from its ideal position.
However, it's worth noting that the original lighting in the garage has T12HO bulbs. They're 110W each, and theoretically should emit over 8000 lumens each. They do illuminate the garage nicely, my main complaint with them (other than the horrible mounting) is the noise from the ballasts. I could easily remedy that problem by replacing the ballasts with GE 72109 ballasts (Home Depot SKU 714264). This also potentially eliminates some of my layout issues.
I painted the underside of the hoods of the new fluorescent lights with the Rust-Oleum white appliance epoxy. They were originally painted with a gray reflective paint, but when I tested one of the lights earlier this week, it didn't seem very effective. At a minimum, I think they look better with white-bottomed hoods. I wish I had left one of them with the gray paint so I could do an A/B comparison, but to my eyes, they look like they're giving off more light with the white paint versus what I saw last night with the original gray paint.
When it cools off a bit tonight, I hope to start working on fixing the ceiling drywall issues. I also need to take one of the new fluorescent lights apart to see how hard it would be to wire them directly instead of using the included cords. Of course there are upsides to using the cords; it makes it easier to replace an entire fixture should it ever be necessary.
I created four support braces for the garage attic, to shore up the areas with sagging drywall. These are 22.5" long with Simpson Strong-Tie brackets on the ends. I have a fifth one cut, but I ran out of battery in my impact driver before I could mount the Strong-Tie brackets to it.
I need to start considering tool cabinet positioning and air line setup. Right now I have my air compressor roughly where it needs to be, dictated by the location of the 240V outlet. Of course I could run another 240V circuit, and in fact I'll need to do that at some point for welding. But aside from that, I need to run air throughout the garage, with more drip legs than I have now. I really like the Norgren automatic drain I have now; in combination with the filter I have and the automatic drain I have on the compressor, I've never had water enter my hoses. But with more iron pipe through the garage, I'll need more drip legs and I'll also need a more effective filtering setup in one location for paint guns.
While I was at it, I put a little more tension on the torsion springs. The door is now almost effortless to open without the assistance of the garage door opener, and is VERY quiet when operated with the opener. It's mechanically near perfect. Now I just need to install the new door seals and start working on the other door.
I've decided to brace some of the areas in the garage ceiling where the drywall joints have failed. This is largely because the drywall has bowed from the previous owner's terrible decision to hang heavy 8' long fluorescent lights from the drywall alone using toggle bolts (and only one on each end). While I'd like to replace the drywall, I just don't have the time to prepare the garage for it right now. I already have some 2x4 hangers I can use.
When I get around to repainting the garage, I think I'm going to use Olympic ONE paint in a satin finish, white.
Since I've bought several new tools recently, I finally got around to printing and sealing some label cards for new Systainers for my old Bostitch pneumatic narrow-crown stapler and my new Hitachi N5008AC2 7/16" crown pneumatic construction stapler. These are both in SYS 1 T-Loc Systainers. I need to print labels for the Systainer Maxi that is holding my old Senco FramePro 701XP pneumatic framing nailer. And I need to buy more Systainers for many other tools. The idea here is to get most of my power and air tools into Systainers so they'll stack nicely on shelves, many of them above the garage doors. Having a bunch of differently-sized blowmolded cases with rounded corners that don't latch together makes for terrible storage. The Systainers are expensive, but they work so wonderfully as a system and I like being able to make my onw label cards that can be inserted on 3 sides of the T-Loc Systainers (and easily swapped when I rearrange).
I also need to buy some foam to protect some of them inside the Sysytainers. The cheapest option that's easy to cut to shape is Kaizen foam.
The next tools to be placed in Systainers will be the Bosch MX30E oscillating tool, Bosch PS21 and PS41 set with charger, and my Bosch jigsaw. I use the PS21 and PS41 fairly regularly, so those will likely wind up on a 495020 Systainer cart. The MX30E and jigsaw will wind up on a shelf.
I sprayed some EEZOX Cycle Tune-Up on the torsion springs of one of the garage doors. This was just to prevent rust. As near as I can tell, the Cycle Tune-Up is extremely similar to their Gun Care product. Goes on wet, but dries.
I went to Home Depot and bought another 1223-0LC switch and four strips of 7' long garage door seal to replace the damaged ones on one of the garage doors. Unfortunately they didn't have more, so I'll have to wait to replace the seals on the second garage door.
I installed the new light switches at the back door. Two 1223-0LC and one 1221-0LC. And now I know why one of the old decorator switches I replaced did nothing: it had failed. Though it wasn't cheap, I'm glad I replaced all of the garage switches with Leviton industrial grade switches. They're rated for a minimum of 50,000 cycles. I expect them to still be working 20 years from now. And I really like the amber illumination when the switches are off.
I went to Lowe's in White Lake and bought a Bosch MX30EK-35 oscillating multi-tool kit. I see no other way to cut the vent pipe in the garage attic cleanly, and I've needed one of these tools for a long while (grout, door jams, etc.). In fact I'll likely be using it to fix grout issues in the master bathroom shower before the year is out.
I wish Bosch would just stop putting their tools in one-off blow-molded cases. Half of the case is empty, and of course you can't stack it with any other case. They've been making their L-Boxx cases for years now, why can't they use these for all of their tools that come with cases? Of course I'll just buy another Festool Systainer to hold it.
I want to build some shelves over the top of the garage doors. This is typically space that's difficult to utilize, but shelves will make it usable. To get to them, I'll probably buy an Xtend & Climb ladder; they take up very little space when not in use.
I lubricated the hinges on the left garage door and looked at the rolloers. Both of my garage doors need new rollers. I'll order some tomorrow.
I installed the three new light switches by the door to the house. Two were 3-way and were replaced by 1223-0LC switches. The other was a single pole switch and was replaced by a 1221-0LC. I then installed the new stainless steel triple-gang cover plate. Yay, no more decora switches on the garage side of the door to the house. The new switches were expensive, but they're industrial grade and should outlive me. Several of the decora-style switches in the house have failed because they're cheapies. I tend to use my garage a LOT and hence need switches that will last.
Tomorrow I'll work on installing the obstacle sensors and install the keypad. I might even start installing the second opener, but I need to move quite a bit of stuff out of the way to do it. Of course, it's high time to get stuff out of the way in the garage so I can put my cars in it.
I now have a functioning garage door opener, but I have yet to correctly position the obstacle sensors. They can't be effectively track-mounted due to the track being right against the cinder blocks on one side of the door. If I mounted them on the tracks, they'd be too high. The previous owner taped his together on one side of the door so they're effectively disabled. I've disabled mine for now, but I will be mounting them soon.
I'm not happy with the wiring to the control pad. It is jammed in the wall somewhere so I can't easily replace it, but it's longer and thicker than I'd like (or need) at the wall while being shorter than I'd like at the motor. And I will need to reroute it in the garage when I insulate the garage.
It turns out I need some more of the 1223-0LC or similar switches. I didn't realize that the fluorescent lights in the garage are on 3-way switches (one of the switches by the back door to the garage is for the fluorescent lights). If I had been smart, I'd have bought all 3-way switches, even though they're $4 more each.
Anyway, I also bought five Leviton 1221-0LC 15/20 amp industrial toggle switches. These are illuminated when off, so they're easy to find in the dark. Two are to disable the garage door openers, the other three are to replace light switches. Of course it turns out that one of the ones I need to replace in the garage is a 3-way switch, so I'll need to go back to Home Depot and get one of the 1223-0LC switches.
I also bought two stainless steel wall cover plates for the new switches; a double-gang for the garage door opener switches and a triple-gang for the light switches. Nothing exciting about these, I just wanted stainless steel for cleanability and durability.
While I was there, I also picked up a set of Ridgid cobalt drill bits and some spares of the small size DeWalt split-point Ti-coated bits that I seem to break once in a while.
My original plan for tonight was to put the second coat of sealant on the outside of the foundation. However, the weather forecase for tomorrow night nixed that plan. The stuff takes 48 to 72 hours to cure, and there's a 60% chance of thunderstorms tomorrow night. Looks like I might have to wait until Thursday night.
I cut, drilled and installed the header support over the garage door, and installed the door opener mounting bracket. The center of the door is almost exactly between two studs in the wall, so the support header is a necessity. I used two pieces of 3/4" thick treated plywood here, stacked to get 1.5" thickness. Four 3" long 5/16" diameter lag screws hold the first piece to the studs in the wall, with their heads counersunk to be flush. The second piece is held to the first with two 1.675" long 5/16" diameter lag screws and four deck screws. Two more 1.675" long 5/16" diameter lag screws go through the opener mounting bracket and into both pieces of the plywood. It's rock solid. I dind't worry about some of the lag screws penetratin the drywall behin the header support, because the previous owner riddled the drywall with holes behind it (apparently searching for studs). I'll be caulking the edge of the header support at the wall anyway.
I then played around with positioning the opener motor. Normally I'd put it as close to the top of the door (when the door is open) as possible, but given how high I had to place the mounting bracket above the door, it looks awful that way. So I'm going with having it positioned such that the track is nearly level. I don't think this is going to be a problem, given that the openers are stronger than I need (3/4 HP versus 1/2 HP) and that I'm using strong galvanized angle to keep the motor from moving around. It's relatively easy to lower the motor if necessary.
I cut the angle iron pieces and mounted the opener motor securely. I also added two flat pieces of galvanized steel in an X pattern in the trapezoid formed by the garage ceiling, angle iron and top of the garage door opener. The mounting is VERY solid. I'll be repeating the same process for the other door, except I think it will need a longer header support due to it being nearly centered on a wall stud. I think I have enough treated plywood for the job.
I tightened all of the screws that hold the door hinges to the door panels. A few of them were loose.
Tomorrow I'll mount and wire the trip eyes and indoor control pad and adjust the opener. I'll also mount the outdoor keypad if I have time and it's not raining. Hopefully I'll have one fully functioning garage door tomorrow night.
I used up some of the hardware I had bought to reinforce the bottom edge of the garage door (it sags a bit). I'll need to replace it. I need to buy some for the other garage door opener too.
I ordered 2 cans of EEZOX Cycle Tune-Up to coat the torsion springs above the door.
I'm very lucky that the garage door opener motor did not fall on my head. As if it wasn't bad enough that the metal angle holding it was not done properly (vertical pieces were parallel and did not form a trapezoid), the moron that installed it attached the outlet box in the way of the angle iron attached to the ceiling (on the same truss). So when he went to install the angle on the ceiling, THE LAG SCREWS DIDN'T PENETRATE WOOD AT ALL BECAUSE THE OUTLET COVER IS IN THE WAY OF PLACING THE ANGLE DIRECTLY UNDER THE TRUSS! THE LAG SCREWS WERE ONLY IN THE DRYWALL! They flew right out when I put my tiny 12V cordless Bosch impact driver on them, without the impact mechanism activating. Sigh, how can people be so dumb as to buy a perfectly good house and then proceed to destroy it and create very dangerous hazards? A garage door opener falling from 8 feet could kill someone at worst and severely injure them at best. And all he really had to do was use two pieces of iron angle instead of one, or take a notch out of the iron angle to accomodate the outlet cover plate. I chose to do the latter (using my chop saw), and I now have a 36" long piece of galvanized angle with 4 lag screws holding it to the truss. The same problem exists with the other opener, so I'll have to do it there too. And I need to remove the other opener ASAP so it doesn't fall on its own.
A similar problem existed at the header support over the garage door. The lag screws he used did not penetrate the drywall, they were too short. And his header was a piece of decking which had cracked. The lag screws holding the garage door opener bracket to the piece of decking were both loose. The only thing holding the piece of decking to the wall were four deck screws. Amazing that people can let these kinds of disasters-in-the-waiting hang over their head (literally). The garage door opener of Damocles.
Worth noting from my laundry room work: the previous owner's decision to pump all the moist air into the garage from his hokey dryer vent hack (vented directly into the garage) caused all of the taped drywall joints on the garage ceiling to fail. When the house was built, I don't know if today's setting-type joint compound was available. Regardless, that's not what was used and I can't blame the contractors; it's more difficult to apply due to the dramatically shorter work time and greater sanding difficulty. It didn't help that the previous owner hung 8' T12 fluorescent lighting on the drywall and not the trusses; one of them has pulled part of a sheet of drywall away from the truss. It's dangerous, the light will have to come down. Not a huge deal, I plan to redo the lighting in the garage anyway. But it stinks that I'm going to have to retape and mud all of the drywall joints (with setting-type joint compound). Or hire someone to put new 5/8" drywall in. Not a hot idea at the moment since I need to be able to use the garage; I vote for retaping the joints when I have time.
I cut and installed a new piece of 1/2" thick hardwood plywood to replace the piece of sheathing the previous owner had cut out of the wall. The laundry room is all buttoned up now except for a little more insulation work in the basement and some expanding foam to seal joints from insects and mice. I bought the GreatStuff Pest Prevention formula for that task. Given how long mice were inhabiting this area, I expect them to relentlessly pursue reentry. I need to make sure that something that tastes awful is on all edges they could get their teeth in. And of course I need to get around to installing new garage door seals and my new garage door openers.
I went to Home Depot to get new longer water source lines for the utility sink, DAP 3.0 outdoor caulk for the dryer vent and a 24" T12 bulb for the pantry light. It appears that the ballast in the pantry light is going south, it flickers even with a new bulb. I intend to replace this lighting with LED, so it's not a big deal.
I hooked up the utility sink. I had trouble with the el-cheapo trap that was included with it. I wound up using the old one. All is well for now, I don't see any leaks.
I installed the dryer duct and caulked it. After it sets up well, I will use expanding foam on the inside just to provide a little bit more barrier and support and to seal off the joint. I really like the new dryer vent, it is less constricting than any other design I've seen and will make it trivially easy to clean the dryer duct.
I installed the outlet box for the outlet in the basement for the pipe heaters. This will also serve as the junction box for the new outlet in the laundry room. I then drilled 5/8" holes through the few joists where I needed to pass 12/2 wire, and ran the wire through it. I then connected everything at the outlet for the pipe heaters, and buttoned up the outlet. I then connected the wiring to the ground bar, the neutral bar, and finally to a 20A breaker in the secondary load box. I turned the load box back on and tested the GFCI on both of the outlets. It's all good. The washing machine and pipe heaters are now on their own 20A circuit with GFCI outlets, while the dryer is on a separate circuit with a GFCI outlet.
The previous owner installed D-Squared HOM spacers in the QO load box, and they don't fit correctly at the face plate. I'll pick up some QO spacers at Home Depot the next time I'm there.
At this point, I have a functional laundry room. I just need to finish up the work under the joists and foam the dryer vent area in the interior. I should be good for many years once that's done. Of course I still need some laundry valets to hang things in the laundry room, and a pull-out drying rack to dry sweaters and the like (maybe over the utility sink). I also need a new fluorescent light fixture; the existing one has a broken cover and a magnetic ballast that buzzes annoyingly.
I then went to the Home Depot down the street and picked up a piece of oak for my threshold transition, some clamps and foil tape for the dryer ductwork, and some large hammer-in insulated staples for some of the electrical work that remains. I used the self-checkout.
I installed the threshold transition by caulking the underside and then nailing it with my pneumatic finish nauler. I then installed the door casing.
I finished assembling the utility tub cabinet and positioned it. It's ugly but it'll work for now. However, the water feed hoses are too short. I'll need to get some longer ones tomorrow. Given the reviews for this sink, this is a good thing. Many complained about the included lines leaking at the crimps. I think Home Depot SKU 405183 is long enough.
I taped and clamped the remaining dryer duct joints in the basement. The duct is good to go there. I need to do the same for the area under the floor joists.
I finished working out all of the dryer ductwork. All solid, no flex hose. I need at least 3 more 4" clamps to get it all fastened together, and I need some aluminum foil tape.
I put a second coat of polyurethane on the door casing. I also put a second coat on the exposed MDF edges on the bottom of the utility sink cabinet.
I cut the pieces of door casing for the laundry room door, and put the first coat of polyurethane on them.
I started to assemble the utility sink cabinet. I put a coat of polyurethane on the exposed MDF edges on the bottom, just to help prevent water damage. The cabinet is flimsy, as I expected for the price (cheap). I will be improving it a tiny bit by adding a back; it doesn't come with one. I might just use the extra underlayment left over from the floor work, and staple it on or nail and glue it on (and paint it white). I don't really expect to keep this cabinet indefinitely, I'll be making my own at some point out of hardwood plywood.
I removed the plywood panel I installed last night, and cut and refit the duct into the dryer box after disconnecting it from the dryer's transition duct. I believe my new plan is going to work fine, and I will not have any ductwork in the garage. And it'll all be fairly accessible for cleaning, even the transition duct, without moving the dryer.
To put the cap on the bottom of the tee, I used a Malco 5-blade crimper that I bought at Home Depot to crimp one end of the tee. The cap fits snugly, and will be mostly concealed once I put the plywood back in place.
I connected some of the ductwork, and connected an aluminum flex hose for the remainder until the 45-degree ell arrives. I did my first load of laundry, and all went well. I still need to install the new dryer vent, and of course I stilll have plenty of buttoning up to do on the underside of the floor.
Tomorrow I'll do the same for the second piece of plywood. I might just use 1/2" hardwood plywood here, since it'll be lighter to handle and I expect to pull this one off later to deal with the sprinkler system piping. However, it's worth noting that I plan to insulate the garage and install a natural gas heater with separate combustion. This will essentially prevent pipes from ever freezing in the garage, though that's not the objective (the objective is to allow me to work in the garage year-round in comfort).
Hmm... I finally figured out that the original dryer duct (which presumably went through the hole in the floor that I patched) took a much more direct route to the outside, by going between the cantilevered joists over the foundation, and out the edge joist under the laundry room window. And I measured, it meets code requirements (more than 3 feet from the window). I'm going to reconfigure my dryer duct (shorten it) and use this route. It means I have to remove the panel I just installed, but that's not a huge issue. This buys me precious space in the garage, and puts the duct completely out of any area that could get crushed. It also eliminates my condensation concerns. Best of all, I can temporarily run a flexible duct tomorrow so I can do a load of laundry (which I desperately need to do). And I can install my new outside vent without cutting another hole in the outside of the house. As a bonus, I believe I can install a tee right below the DryerBox in the joists, and hence have a way to clean out lint in the dryer flex hose without pulling the dryer out from the wall.
I ordered a long-turn 45-degree ell from dryerbox.com to facilitate the ducting in the basement.
God only knows why the previous owner hacked up the wall and sheathing to vent into the garage. He could have easily used the original dryer vent on the exterior. I'm assuming it's because he used up the space with his utility sink plumbing. But now that I've swapped the dryer and washing machine locations, that's not an issue. I could replumb the utility sink with a trap inside the basement, using pipe heaters on the water feed lines, and not have the issues he created. And in fact I may do that soon.
We tested it, it is leak-free. Yay, no more sewage leaking into the basement.
I installed the baseboard. Before installing it, I ran a bead of roof sealant caulk (clear) along the edge of the floor to prevent any water on the floor from getting past the bottom edge of the baseboard. I also caulked the chair rail piece with DAP 3.0 Kitchen, Bath and Plumbing caulk. Finally I caulked the top of the baseboard with white DAP 3.0 Kitchen, Bath and Plumbing caulk.
Several weeks ago, I noticed that the east wall in the basement was still wet, despite having a new foundation waterproofing system installed. It was below the main septic pipe. Originally we thought it was ground water coming in through a poor seal of the pipe to the foundation, but that should have been partially remedied by the new basement waterproofing system. So the next suspect was a septic pipe leak. And yes, it started to smell in the house, especially in the master bedroom that is directly above the septic pipe's exit from the foundation. So I opened the cleanout trap and took a look inside. Sure enough, the septic pipe had sheared off from the end of the wye, inside the foundation wall. I'd like to smack the idiot that embedded the wye in the wall and hence located the joint to the septic pipe right at a stress point.
The new wye is now not embedded in the wall, and instead is about half an inch from the interior side of the wall. 4" schedule 40 now passes through the wall with no joint inside the wall. We used rubber couplers with the clamps removed as a protective sleeve around the pipe where it passes through the foundation. On the outside, there was a slope mismatch, so we needed a rubber coupler. We installed two of them, about 6 feet apart, to split the slope change into two more gradual changes. And I wanted one close to the foundation to allow for a little flex from frost heave. Once the outside work was done, we moved inside and reconfigured the 4" PVC as well as a 2" waste run from the master bathroom shower and jacuzzi tub. Once that was done, we returned to the outside and applied hydraulic cement to fill the gap between the pipe and the foundation block (Craig had already ground and scored the wall to get good mechanical grip, and washed it with muriatic acid) . Tomorrow I'll apply the sealer and reinforcing fabric in layers, and do the hydraulic cement in the interior.
For now, I no longer have sewage dripping into the foundation blocks. I owe Craig big time, again. Note that the duct tape in the picture was just to help protect the stainless steel clamps on the rubber coupler from corrosion long-term. I'm not dumb enough to just use duct tape to hold septic pipe together. :-)
I'll finish the grout tonight so it can cure for at least 12 hours before I consider moving the machines into the room.
I put a coat of stain on the oak door casing pieces, which have not been cut yet. I put a second coat of polyurethane on the baseboard moulding.
I was later able to lay most of the tiles (all but one) before suffering exhaustion. Tomorrow I should be able to cut the baseboard pieces, grout the floor, then possibly install the baseboard pieces and get some caulking done. The door casing can wait a day or two; the objective is to finish what can't be done once the machines are in place. Craig will likely be helping me move the machines into the room this weekend. I need to buy some shoe moulding, I forgot to buy some.
I patched and skimcoated more of the subfloor with Henry 547. I wanted to do more, but I've managed to misplace my second box of Henry 547.
I believe it's sufficient. I cut the underlayment pieces and stapled them down with the Hitachi N5008AC2 construction stapler. It seems plenty firm. Worth noting that most of the floor (all of if that will not be under machines and utility tub cabinet) is from a full sheet, so there are no seams where there could be foot traffic. That sheet doesn't end crosswise until near the middle of where the machines will be located, and lengthwise goes all the way from the door to the far wall. It is 88.5" x 48", and the other piece is only 86.5" c 18".
I put a coat of Henry 336 Bond Enhancer Self-Stick Tile Primer on the top of the underlayment. Here's a picture from when the Henry 336 was drying.
I cut the chair rail moulding to use as my transition piece on the walls. I now need to put some polyurethane on it and the base moulding.
I also stopped at Performance Tool and bought a Systainer SYS 1 to hold my new pneumatic 7/16" crown stapler. I wanted a second one to hold my pneumatic narrow crown stapler, but they only had one in the store.
I cut the chair rail pieces. I put the first coat of polyurethane on them, and also on the base moulding pieces.
Where possible (joist underneath), I screwed down places in the subfloor that were moving or squeaking. I hope it's sufficient once I staple down the underlayment. I have my doubts, but the only certain way to find out is to continue. Probably worth noting that very little of the floor will be exposed once the machines and utility tub cabinet are in place.
I prepared to put a skim coat on the subfloor to even out the plywood seams that don't quite match up. All I did was vacuum and put the drill, mixer and bucket in the room.
I nailed up the chair rail. I'm debating whether or not I leave it stained. It looks lovely on its own, but I may later decide to paint it white. I won't be able to decide until the floor tile is in and the baseboards are placed. Of course, most of this piece is going to be completely hidden by the machines.
I stopped at Lowe's and bought some Minwax Early American stain, two pieces of oak chair rail to use as the transition piece between the FRP panels and drywall on the walls, and three tubes of white DAP 3.0 Kitchen, Bath and Plumbing caulk. I put a coat of the stain on the chair rail pieces, as well as on the oak baseboard pieces I bought weeks ago. Tomorrow I'll put the first coat of polyurethane on them.
I caulked the gap between the DryerBox and the plywood and FRP. I also caulked the rightmost edge of the FRP to the painted wall. The utility sink plumbing holes were filled with expanding foam. Hence the wall is pretty much impermeable at this point except for the 240V electrical outlet (which I'll likely cover with tape since I won't be using it) and the washing machine outlet box. I'm not very concerned about water in those locations, they're up high. I might foam tape the washing machine outlet box cover to the FRP, but water that enters the washing machine outlet box should just drain down the standpipe. My main areas of concern were the DryerBox and the utility sink plumbing, since they're low and near the sink where water may be splashed. As long as I do a good job caulking once the floor and baseboard are in, I should not have any problems with moisture for a long time to come.
I forgot to buy new door casing moulding pieces. I want the EverTrue 0.625" x 2.25" interior stain grain red oak casing moulding, pattern 356.
I'm starting to think I should replace part of the subfloor. It was poorly done by whoever added this addition, and it has some water damage. If I can get it to stop squeaking, I'll keep it. Otherwise I'm going to cut out a section of it and replace it.
I decided to execute the backup plan: FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) panels. The advantages: one large sheet and hence no gaps to worry about moisture permeation, and FRP adhesive troweled on with a 3/16" x 1/4" V-notch trowel. It's not going to come off the wall without me intentionally removing it. Remember there are two coats of polyurethane on the back and sides of the plywood, so it should not easily accept any moisture. And the adhesive should not be susceptible to moisture once cured (which takes a full week).
The panels I bought are scored to look like ceramic tile. of course they don't really look like ceramic tile if you look closely, since the grout lines are perfectly machined. I used Liquid Nails FRP-310 to adhere them to the walls, which is a specific adhesive for FRP. I used an inside corner piece made for the panels where the panels meet, and I caulked botht he outside of it where it meets the larger panel and the channel that holds the smaller panel. It should be watertight. Of course I had to make two runs to Home Depot to get this corner piece, since I just grabbed from the bin and ran on the first visit and the wrong pieces were in the bin and I didn't check. Sigh, too common at Home Depot due to lazy customers.
I sanded my spackling. I'm basically ready for paint.
I went to Home Depot and bought some Henry 336 Bond Enhancer, a paint tray and some 3/8" nap roller covers, paint tray liners and hydraulic cement. The hydraulic cement is for another project in the basement.
I put the first coat of Henry 336 on the plywood on the walls. Its consistency and color is like milk. Since the plywood was bare, it soaked it up. I should have read the coverage on the bottle; I bought 2 gallons and I'll be surprised if I use more than half a gallon on the walls and underlayment. Better to have too much than too little, of course.
While waiting for the Henry 336 to dry, I cut the plywood to go under the floor trusses in the garage.
I then put the second coat of Henry 336 on the plywood on the walls, and the first coat of Olympic ONE Snow Storm paint (eggshell finish) on the walls. I like the Olympic ONE so far; it's a paint and primer in one, and the coverage is very good and it's thick.
I later put the first coat of paint on the ceiling, then the second coat of paint on the walls, then the second coat of paint on the ceiling.
I started putting the vinyl tiles on the walls. I'm having second thoughts about it; I don't know that the adhesive will hold up over time. My backup plan is FRP (fiberglass reinforced panel).
I moved the light switch upward to not interfere with the work of installing the plywood on the walls. This also means one less hole to cut in the plywood. This was a lot more work than it should have been; there were 4 circuits in the light box, and the ground wires were cut WAY too short and crimped and soldered with a ferrule deep in the box. Sigh, I hate dealing with other people's hackery. At any rate, the box is moved and the light switch is functional again.
I finished the remaining insulation in the wall. I then cut the hardwood plywood piece for it, whose backside was coated with hardwood floor polyurethane a week ago. Cutting this piece wasn't trivial since there are many cutouts in it... one for the washing machine outlet box, one for the DryerBox, one for the old 240V dryer outlet, and 3 for the utility sink. But I used a brand new plywood blade in my circular saw, along with my Bosch jigsaw. You kow what they say... measure twice, cut once. My first cuts were all perfect, except at the edge that touches the outside wall. That wall is incredibly crooked and I didn't feel like using craft paper or the like to match its curve. That joint will be caulked later, and will of course be completely hidden by the washing machine and its pedestal anyway.
I then installed the other piece of oak plywood on the wall with the door. The previous drywall there had a big hole cut in it and was water damaged near the floor.
I did some more spackling, this time with the 4" knife. This should be my last application of spackling. I'll sand and put the first coat of paint on tomorrow.
I need a gallon of Henry 336 Primer from Home Depot.
I had to turn off the gas to the house at the meter, since there are no shutoff valves anywhere upstream of the old pipe I had to remove. But I'm done, the gas is back on and I'm fairly confident that my pipe connections will not leak (I used gas line thread tape, I've never liked plumbers putty).
I also cut the panel to cover the giant hole in the wall that went to the garage from the laundry room. I installed it temporarily using my new staple gun that shoots 2" long 7/16" crown staples. I need to tweak the framing I did, so I didn't install it permanently. Speaking of the staple gun, it didn't come with a case. I need to see what size Systainer it will fit in. It looks like it will fit in a Systainer 1.
I spackled some of the room. Mainly where the holes were left from the removal of the cabinets.
I forgot to buy pipe insulation today. I'll need to do that tomorrow.
However, weather foiled the notion of cutting any plywood. So I'm working on moving the gas line and installing the pipe warmers. Yet another indication of hackery by the previous owner... he used the same Frost King pipe heaters that I bought. However, he violated the instructions in numerous ways. First, he coiled the cable around the pipe. Second, he used the same cable for two different runs. In the instructions, note the big warning at the bottom: "WARNING: Do not spiral cable around pipe or cross cable over itself. Do not use one run of cable for two different pipe runs. Failure to comply may result in overheating and fire." I'm starting to think that the previous homeowner was illiterate. :-( During inspection, we noted that the sprinkler system was fed with PVC (which had burst). I don't know which part of "NOT FOR PRESSURE APPLICATIONS" written all down the side of the pipe he didn't understand. My conclusion at this point is that he could not read.
At any rate, the new pipe heaters are installed, correctly. They run from just over the top of the foundation all the way to the underside of the washing machine outlet box. Exactly 6 feet, which is the length of the heaters I bought. I used Nashua 557 duct tape (rated for 200F in-service temperatures and code-approved), then wrapped the duct tape in green powdercoating tape (rated for more than 400F).
I then installed pipe insulation on the pipes under the floor, to help retain heat from the pipe heaters and also help keep condensation away from the fiberglass insulation I plan to install. Unfortunately I forgot to buy pipe insulation for the wall today, I'll do that tomorrow.
Having very little space behind the DryerBox, there was no room for effective use of fiberglass insulation. So I foamed it in with Great Stuff expanding foam. It worked well. As a bonus, the duct to which the DryerFlex will be attached is now firmly held in place.
I finally got around to removing the remaining plumbing for the utility sink that was in the garage. When I went to remove it from the sink, it just fell off. Both hot and cold lines apparently froze and burst out of the compression fittings a long time ago. Sigh, why do people do such stupid things like run uninsulated and unheated water lines into an unheated space in Michigan? If there was one place that most needed pipe heaters, it was this sink. Of course they would have run for many months every year, but that's better than letting the pipes freeze, break and leak.
I still need to deal with the sprinkler system feed. Of course I've no idea where there are any sprinkler heads, or a sprinkler control box. The valves are behind the garage, which leads me to believe that for some ungodly reason, the back yard had sprinklers while the front yard did not. The previous owner was a landscaper; you'd think he'd know better than to use PVC to feed a sprinker system, but alas... he did not. In any event, I don't even see wiring for a control box anywhere. Hmm... I'll have to backtrack from the valves. I'm starting to think there was never any control box, but why bother having a PBV and valves with no control box?
I removed the piece of plywood the previous owner used to cover the underside of floor joists that cantilever over the sill plate. I don't know what he was thinking. I'm starting to think he was dumb as a shovel. It was not outdoor-rated plywood, and was only 1/2" thick. But much worse was the fact that it didn't provide anywhere near full coverage. So essentially he built a mouse nest. And there was about 5 lbs. (not exaggerating) of mouse droppings on it, along with one mouse skeleton and a whole lot of seed shells. It was also damp from the standpipe trap he had put inside the wall which cracked from freezing water. I have been seeing mice in here (from the basement side, on top of the sill) every day I've worked this week. One of my traps has disappeared, presumably it fell down inside the foundation cinder blocks. I had put one near the spot where the owner had cut out the sill plate and part of one of the cinder blocks for PVC for the utility sink in the garage... another stupid move. He removed the PVC trap for it before he left, probably because it froze and burst. Just the same, there was no need to cut the sill plate or take a chunk out of the cinder block... all the other plumbing goes over the sill. Sigh, in the words of Ron White... you can't fix stupid. Note that all this hackery left the basement wide open to the garage. An adult raccoon could've climbed through if he got in the garage, because there was full inter-joist access to the basement. Lord only knows what his heating bills were like.
The PVC for the washing machine standpipe... I didn't realize that the 3" pipe it leads to was schedule 30 before I cut it. All of the new pieces I bought (as well as some of what I removed) are schedule 40. They don't fit together. Thankfully, Craig delivered an adapter for me and I've installed it along with the 3"x3"x2" schedule 40 wye. I also installed part of the cleanout trap, and made a piece with a coupling to drop in from above so I can take my final measurements for the standpipe run.
Before finishing the standpipe run, I finished the hot water feed for the washing machine. That's because the standpipe needs to run nearly parallel to the water feeds, at roughly the same height, and between them. All due to the way the washing machine outlet box is arranged (standpipe in center) and space constraints since we're running over the foundation sill.
I then did the same for the cold water feed, and finished the standpipe run. I tested the standpipe and the cold water feed by running a hose from the end of the cold water valve in the washing machine outlet box into the standpipe and opening the valve for 5 minutes. It works well, and the plumbing looks a lot tidier than what was there previously. Obviously it helps that I deleted the bursted PVC for the sink in the garage, and that I now have a 2" cleanout trap in the basement instead of a non-cleanout trap hidden in a poorly insulated exterior wall that had a large hole cut it in it.
Off-topic, but a big time-saver... Julie mowed my lawn for me. She's the best!
The DB-480 dryer box is also very nice, as is the Dryer Flex hose. So is the DWV4W flush-mount dryer vent.
With some help from Julie, I removed the overhead cabinets. Only one of them will remain in the laundry room, but it will be relocated to be above the utility tub. This is because the cabinets were mounted too low to be used above the laundry machines; per their manuals, they require more ventilation space than was possible with the machines on the pedestals and the cabinets above them. There was essentially no space above the machines with the cabinets in place. Also, the GFCI outlets need to be accessible for the test and reset buttons. That wasn't possible with the cabinets in place. If I raised them, they would essentially be unusable. Finally, I want a longer closet rod than the extremely short one that was previously installed. With machines this size, a very large of laundry might need to be removed from the dryer and hung. Much more than what could have been hung on the previous rod.
I needed to pick up some things from Home Depot:
- (2) old work single-gang electrical outlet boxes - (2) paintable single-gang cover plates - GE 4 ft. stainless steel braided washing machine hoses (SKU 609922) - (2) Master Flow 4" x 5' round metal duct pipe CP4X60 (SKU 148644) - (2) 4" x 2' round metal duct pipe (BPC4X24, SKU 458813) - Milwaukee 49-56-949 4.5" hole saw (SKU 232679) to install the dryer venting - Milwaukee 48-22-1950 utility knife blades 50-pack (SKU 1000004423) - large hook utility knife blades - DeWalt DWHT20547L 12" 5-in-1 hacksaw (SKU 398701) - hacksaw blades - code-approved 14 mil duct tape - 3/16" x 2" zinc-plated toggle bolt with mushroom head screw 15-piece (SKU 261254)And from Lowe's:
- Style Selections 23720CHRLG 6' x 1.32" metal closet rod (item 179924) - Watts LA-686 90-degree brass washing machine connector
I sweated copper pipe to the washing machine outlet valves.
I cut the hole for the dryer vent and the gas line to enter the dryer box. Everything fits well.
I installed the two outlet boxes, with their bottoms approximately 55" from the subfloor. This should put them _just_ above the top of the laundry machines when I'm done. I ran the wire to them, and installed the tamper-proof 20A GFCI outlets. Note that right now, only the right outlet (intended for the dryer) is connected to the breaker box. I have not yet run the wire to the breaker box for the left outlet. I'm also not sure the subpanel in the basement where I intended to add the breaker is up to code. I haven't opened the breaker boxes yet, but it sure looks to me like the subpanel is wired in parallel from the utility company feeds. Potentially a disaster waiting to happen. This subpanel looks to have been installed by the previous homeowner and I'd bet it's done incorrectly. The fact that I don't see a breaker for it in the main panel is a dead giveaway, but the breaker labelling in the main panel is poor (difficult to read).
- NIBCO C4884 2" PVC DWV Hub x Hub x Cleanout P-Trap (SKU 640887) - (3) Shark Bite 1/2" disconnect clips - Ridgid 31025 18" long heavy duty pipe wrench (SKU 777117) - BrassCraft T392 24" long aluminum body pipe wrench - Sioux Chief 1/2 in. Insulating and Suspending Clamps (5-Pack) (model HD558-E2PK2, SKU 671081) - copper pipe strap - composite pipe strap - drywall nails - 2" PVC cap - (3) 2" PVC 90-degree elbows - (2) 2" PVC couplers - (2) 2" PVC 45-degree elbows - 3" x 3" x 2" PVC wye - (2) 3" PVC couplers - 3" PVC cleanout trap adapter - 3" PVC cleanout trap plug - PVC primer and cement - (3) GreatStuff expanding foam spray cans - 100' of 12-2 indoor wire - Square D 20A single-pole circuit breaker (model HOM120, SKU 576387) - 8' long 2x6 to cover holes in wall base plate and wall studs from previous owner's hackery - Leviton SmartLockPro 20A Slim Tamper-Resistant GFCI outlet 3-pack, white (model M22-X7899-03W, SKU 162677) - single-gang new work outlet box - paintable cover plates for GFCI outlets
I set up my air compressor's filter and regulator temporarily on pegboard, so I could regulate the air pressure to my nail guns and staplers. I then nailed a piece of 2x6 on the top of each of the portions of the wall plate that the previous owner had cut big holes in for plumbing, standpipe and dryer vent. Using my new hole saws, I cut holes in the wall base plate for the new plumbing and standpipe for the washing machine. Since I couldn't find a template from Oatey, I used the holes in the bottom of the Oatey washing machine outlet box to make sure my holes were in the right places. I also oversized the holes for the water feed pipes, which I will gap-fill with Great Stuff expanding foam once all of the plumbing is in place.
I cut and capped the PVC for the previous standpipe. The previous standpipe went through one of the wall studs to a wye at the utility sink drain pipe. I'll be running it straight down and then above the sill to a P-trap with cleanout that's accessible from the basement. This allows more insulation in the wall than what the previous owner did (trap and lots of 2" PVC in the wall, impossible to clean the trap), and keeps the trap in heated space. Given how the old system was set up, I suspect the previous owner had problems with the water in the trap freezing. That would explain the water damage to the wall below the old washing machine outlet box.
I used Great Stuff expanding foam to fill remaining gaps from the previous owners wanton drilling of holes through the wall base plate and floor.
I took a look at what I need to complete plumbing-wise for the washing machine. It's not bad, assuming I use a SharkBite fitting as the last elbow fitting. The PVC for the standpipe will be a little trickier. In terms of order, I'll do the SharkBite elbows last, since they're the easiest to connect. I need to do some elctrical work first; both of the GFCI wall outlets I intend to use need to be raised above my intended trim strip between the tiled part of the wall and the drywall, so they're accessible for test/reset. I will also need an outlet in the basement for the pipe warmers. Ideally this outlet would be on the same breaker as the washing machine.
The LG WDP5W pedestals arrived.
I'm working on the plumbing for the washing machine. I've got the SharkBite tees installed on the supply in the basement. I created capped stubs for the garage utiliy tub feed, since I don't really anticipate using that tub but may change my mind later (it will need an indoor trap and supply line heaters to avoid freezing). Given that I'm not sure how much I can trust the SharkBite connectors on the old plumbing, I'm trying to use sweated connections where I can. So for now I've got the SharkBite tees leading to elbows and short connectors that I sweated together, and then SharkBite ball valves. I'm using the SharkBite ball valves due to being able to spin them if needed for access.
I turned the water back on, and all is well. The tees I capped (for the previous washing machine feeds) do not leak, nor do any of the fittings I installed today. Next up is placing the washing machine outlet box and plumbing to it. Unfortunately I haven't found my hole saw kit, so I'm not yet able to cut the hole for the 2" standpipe. And I've not yet figured out what I'm going to do with the mess the previous owner made with PVC for the standpipe, laundry tub and garage sink drains. There doesn't appear to be enough pipe left in that area to cut and couple, so I'll probably need to replace a decent amount of PVC. It also doesn't appear to slope correctly, but I haven't put one of my levels on it yet.
I went back to Home Depot after dinner with Julie to pick up a Milwaukee 49-22-4025 hole saw kit (3/4" - 2.5"). I also bought 10' of 2" Schedule 40 PVC to use as the washing machine stand pipe, and a 3"x3"x2" wye. I'll need more fittings, but these are ones I am certain I'll need and I need the 2" straight pipe now so I can get the washing machine outlet box installed and the holes drilled in the wall base plate for it. I want an accessible clean-out trap, the Nibco C4884 from Home Depot (store SKU 640887) looks like the answer. Ideally this trap would be somewhere that won't freeze. I need a waste water routing plan for the washing machine.
I removed the last two sections of the gas line that was sticking up through the floor. Fortunately it had a valve in the basement, and I also capped the line. I will be moving the gas line into the new dryer box when it arrives, so it'll be recessed in the wall.
I tested that the machines and the new utility tub cabinet will fit by using the pedestals and the cabinet base. It's a near-exact fit; a little over 1" between each item, and from the walls.
I verified that a typical Tide laundry detergent bottle fits in one of the pedestal drawers. This is good news, since it looks like I'm going to have to remove one of the wall cabinets and move the other to be located above the utility tub. This is because the machines are too tall on the pedestals to allow for proper ventilation.
Note that the electrical outlet in here is not GFCI. And though it's on a 20A breaker with the correct wire, the outlet itself is a 15A outlet. It would not pass an electrical inspection, and would not have passed inspection for the last decade. 2008 NEC and later requires receptacles within 6' of a utility sink to be GFCI. 2011 NEC 406.12 calls for tamper-proof GFCI in essentially all child-acccessible locations (not behid a difficult to move appliance or more than 5.5 feet from the floor).
I will be doing some of the plumbing work tonight. At a minimum I'll get the existing plumbing removed and capped (I have no choice but to cap it, since the previous owner put no valves in the basement for it; the mains have to be shut off). Hopefully I'll get more done, but we'll see.
Sigh, 2 hours of my day wasted thanks to the lousy cashier at Lowe's. She didn't give me one of my bags, which had all of the important stuff in it for today: solder, solder flux, gate valves, copper end caps, etc. She could've called me (I used my MyLowes card), or just chased me out the door. But she didn't, so I spent an hour looking for the stuff thinking I had misplaced it then another hour going to the store and back.
Well, I've confirmed that the laundry room was an addition. Of course I suspected this all along, but it wasn't until I took a good look at the framing underneath that I realized it. Note this also explains the terribly positioned wall in the basement (that I removed because it severely constrained the entrance to the basement); that wall provided support for the hackery they did to the original floor trusses. I'll put an engineered beam or iron beam and jacks in its place.
As part of the terrible work that was done here, the sill was cut and a top brick was notched for the drain of the sink in the garage. And the hack work done here leaves the garage open to the basement for mice and cold air to enter (and yes, there are mouse droppings to prove it). And with the lack of insulation, the previous owner's plumbing had a plug-in pipe heater wrapped around the plumbing for the washing machine. However, it wasn't plugged in and I don't see where he had it plugged in.
This isn't trivial to fix correctly. I'm tempted to delete the room entirely and recapture the space where it intrudes into the garage. First floor laundry is nice to have, but not if it's a terrible hack that causes a lot of problems.
I'm going to disconnect the utility sink in the garage for now. The way it's plumbed, it's a frozen and burt pipe situation waiting to happen. The drain isn't connected right now, and I don't know if it was ever connected. I'll use SharkBite tees so it can be plumbed later if desired.
Given that I was unable to completely drain the pipes in the basement, I've decided to use SharkBite tees and elbows there. I'm also going to use SharkBite ball valves.
I went to Lowe's and bought parts to fix the hole in the floor. A 2' x 4' piece of 3/4" thick oak plywood, some exterior wood screws, a 6" long 3/8" diameter carriage bolt, nut and fender washers, and two pieces of 1"x3" solid oak. I cut a piece of the oak plywood to fit under the floor, to which I have limited access since it's beyond the sill plate. I cut a slot in it to allow for the gas line that's in the floor now (though it's likely I'll reroute the gas line to the new recessed dryer vent box from dryerbox.com once it arrives). I drilled a hole in it for the carriage bolt, then ran the carriage bolt through it from below. I put it in place from the basement, with the carriage bolt sticking up through the big hole I'm fixing. I ran the carriage bolt through the two pieces of solid oak I bought, then put a pair of fender washers and the nut on. This allowed me to squeeze the new piece of plywood tightly against the bottom of the subfloor.
I then drilled small pilot holes through the subfloor and the new piece of plywood, and installed exterior wood screws to hold the new piece of plywood snugly against the subfloor. Voila, I now have support for a plywood puck I'll install in the hole in the subfloor.
I then installed a puck made from 3/4" thick oak plywood, using wood glue and 4 countersunk screws. I filled the gaps and patched other spots in the subfloor with Henry 547. We'll see how things look once it dries.
I've decided I'm definitely going to move the washing machine to the left and the dryer to the right, which is opposite of how things are set up now. The reason: my new front-load washing machine (and most of them available today) has a non-reversible door with the hinge on the left. To swap clothes from the washer to dryer without having a door in the way, the washer needs to be to the left of the dryer. To do this work, I need to do a decent amount of plumbing, and it's not terribly convenient due to the laundry room being a hacked-in addition. But I need to do it, and it's not rocket science.
At Lowe's I bought 1/8" tile spacers. I also bought a Hitachi N5008AC2 pneumatic stapler, which shoots 7/16" standard crown staples. This is the correct staple size for underlayment, unlike the narrow-crown staples that some moron used on the original underlayment (all of which shot through the underlayment and hence didn't hold it down).
I removed the lower 4' of drywall on the wall with the dryer duct and plumbing for the washer and dryer. This wall was not framed properly (no supporting stud for one of the drywall edges) and was hacked up by the previous owner. One hack was for the dryer duct which I'll fix, the other hacks were for unknown reasons.
I ordered the pedestals (LG WDP5W) for the washing machine and dryer from Home Depot. Basically, I couldn't resist their special price. The pedestals are normally $270 each. I got them for $134 each, with free delivery (this Saturday). This puts a slight crimp in my laundry room plans, but that's OK. Having the official pedestals gives me drawer space, which means I can probably eliminate one of the overhead cabinets and use a longer clothing bar above the machines. Even if not, it's nice to have the machines at a height that doesn't require a lot of stooping to move clothes from the washer to the dryer.
I also ordered some parts from dryerbox.com to make the ductwork and transition hoser installation for the dryer easier and more amenable to future changes. I ordered a K-DF-480-90 kit which includes a DB480 wall box, 48" DryerFlex hose, an LT90 long-turn ell and two 4" clamps. I also ordered two more LT90 long-turn ells, a DWV4V premium flush-mount metal dryer wall vent and a sheet of 6 dryer placard labels. These parts should arrive on Monday, July 29th.
I bought a simple utility tub and cabinet for the laundry room that will allow my new washer and dryer to fit. It's the Style Selections LT2026WWMV at Lowe's. The Lowe's item number is 185379. It was $199. Reviews indicate that the included hoses are problematic, but that's easy to fix.
I also bought some vinyl tiles and grout for the floor. While I would've liked to have ceramic, the subfloor in the laundry room is not sufficient for it (it's pieced together poorly with some edges unsupported). I also don't have the time to lay ceramic right now, I need a functional laundry room. However, I may wind up tearing out the subfloor anyway. When I removed the underlayment, I found ancient moisture had made its way to the subfloor. Not to mention the big hole in it that someone had cut for some reason (dryer vent?). The subfloor appears to be OK, except that it doesn't seem to be supported well in some spots. I need to look at the floor from the basement before I decide whether or not to tear it out and replace it.
I need a plan for the dryer ducting and moving the plumbing for the washing machine. I'm starting to think I want to replace the lower 4' or so of drywall on 2 walls of the room with 1/2" plywood, and put the vinyl tile on the plywood too. It buys me some additional structural integrity for the dryer duct and washi