Unrelated, but it looks like BMW changed the camshaft press-down tool. 22.214.171.1240.959 is the new part number, and it appears to have 4 press-down points versus the 2 of the old tool. Picture thanks to Performance Technic:
I should order 8 more expanding nuts for the kickpanel speakers, P/N 63 17 1 367 868.
I addressed the issue with my subwoofer vinyl. I removed the speaker, then pulled and superglued the parts that had peeled back. Unfortunately I got some glue on the top of it in one spot that I hadn't masked with tape. Of course, I've always been unhappy with the vinyl covering; it should have been fastened better everywhere, and I'd rather have leather. Someday I'll recover it in leather. While I was at it, I cut and installed a silicone gasket for the speaker. It should be better at preventing leaks, and it'll hold up to high temperatures unlike the weatherstripping I had used in the past.
I also put 2 light coats of high-temperature paint on the underside of part of the exhaust midsection that was scratched.
Tomorrow I'll put more rubberized undercoating on the frame rail, and then raise my rear ride height a bit. It has been too low ever since I installed the TC Kline D/A suspension.
I washed the car, clayed it, polished it and waxed it. I did not get to the wheels or the ragtop (window needs polishing, top needs treating).
I put the BP-10 brake pads back on the car, replacing the Q pads. The Q pads glaze too easily and I'm tired of deglazing them and using Scotchbrite on the rotors.
Last week, the bottom of the car snagged a fuel tank cover at a gas station. It turns out that it hit one of the longitudinal rail pieces, removing paint and undercoating. Today I cleaned it up, sprayed some rust encapsulator on it, then applied some Eastwood rubber undercoating (3 coats, brushed on).
I also tweaked the midsection heatshield, since it was rattling.
While I was under the car, I found two nuts missing from the outboard driver side muffler hanger. I put new nuts on.
The real source of rattle was my power steering fluid resorvoir. The M6 bolt that is supposed to hold the clamp was completely missing. I don't normally have M6 hex head bolts around, only socket head cap screws. But I found a stainless M6 hex head bolt in my stainless drawer that was just long enough to work. I put blue loctite on the end of it after installing, just to try to keep it from falling out. I'd actually like a longer M6 bolt so I could put a locknut on. There's a captive nut in the band clamp, but it's very thin. I ordered some 20mm long stainless M6 hex head cap screws.
I then went hunting for the source of a rattle from the front of the car that's been bugging me for a while. I first checked the torque on the nuts for the front swaybar brackets. All 4 needed retorqueing, and I decided to put a second set of locknuts on each stud to act as jam nuts. I ordered M8 jamnuts and a Loctite blue stick since I can't really get the squirt bottle stuff on the studs, and putting it on the nuts doesn't help because it's all gone by the time the nut is all the way onto the stud.
New rear trailing arm bushings installed in the trailing arms (buh-bye squeaky Irelands).
In stock form, all of the shift catch pins slide in the machined bore in the transmission case. I guess it's no wonder that they can develop problems with sticking in the bore; different materials with different expansion rates, and the bore doesn't really get wetted. The two forward ones were both quite dry, the rearmost one was a little wetter. The repair kit comes with 3 bushings (look to be lined with a PTFE mix), 3 new catch pins, 3 new springs, and 3 new sealiing caps.
Everything went without a hitch. Auxiliary parts needed: all exhaust fasteners to remove the midsection, and the gaskets at the header end since they're graphite and mine were pretty much toast (at 31,000 miles). Looking at them, I'm surprised more people don't develop exhaust leaks at this point. Whatever slight binder is in those appears to melt a bit over time. I didn't take pictures, you'll have to take my word for it.
|Driver front:||27.58 mm|
|Passenger front:||27.61 mm|
|Driver rear:||19.73 mm|
|Passenger rear:||19.62 mm|
I switched up my bleeding order a bit this time around. I did the driver's rear first instead of the passenger rear. The initial fluid from the passenger rear caliper was dirtier (slightly grayed) than the fluid in the driver rear caliper.
I ordered speed bleeder valves from Pelican Parts. My existing bleeder valves have rounded-off wrench flats and I need to replace them, so I might as well try these.
I can't seem to get the clutch slave cylinder line disconnected from the hard line. due to the position of the flats on the hose on the topside of the mounting bracket, I had to use a crowfoot from underneath. It seems I can't get enough leverage on my 11 mm flare wrench to turn the flare. There's not a lot of room to work. With two people, someone could hold the flare wrench from above. Working alone, I don't think I can get it off without risking twisting the hard line. I'm taking a break to watch a nasty thunderstorm roll in and then I'll look at it again.
4:30PM I managed to get the clutch line off by putting a deep socket with a short extension over the end of my flare wrench for more leverage. Interesting that the orifice on the stock hose is so small. It was hard to judge from pictures, but now that I've seen in, I think I understand some of my clutch slip issues when driving at full tilt.
6:00PM after much hunting, I found the 14mm shim washers I needed for the mounting of the aftermarket clutch line in the brackets. This is just like the issue with replacing the brake lines; there's no flange on the ends of aftermarket lines. A precision shim washer is what's needed, to catch the points on the hex of the line. I'm using the same ones I used on my brake lines: 14mm ID, 20mm OD, 1mm thick. McMaster-Carr part number 98089A392.
I'd like some #10-32 nuts for the oil pressure sender connection, I don't like the ones that came with it (they're not nuts, they're just threaded spacers). I also seem to be out of ring terminals in the right size.
It's time to check the fuel pressure. I want to see if the fuel pump runs, but the relay module I need to bypass is under the center console in the back. PITA location to get to (I should move it to being behind the useless subwoofer grill). with the e-brake boot and center armrest out, I can't get to it. Center console has to come out. Oh joy.
I checked all of the fuses in the e-box, they're all good. I don't hear the fuel pump running for start, after releasing the tiny bit of residual pressure. I can't seem to find residual pressure numbers for the S54, but there was almost none when I opened the Schrader valve. That might be normal. It might also explain the occasional cold start sputter of the S54, but I usually hear the fuel pump at start. I guess it's time to yank the center console and test the fuel pump by bypassing the relay. I should check some more electrical too; anything going from the DME to the fuel pump control module?
I checked the HFM to see if it's getting voltage from the DME. I found 10.62V on pin 1, 10.35V on pin 2 (hmm, shouldn't that be 12V?), 10.69V on pin 3, 10.68V on pin 4 and 10.55V on pin 5. Hopefully this means my DME isn't dead.
2:15AM figured it out. A loose ground connection for the DME (and some other things) on the passenger side shock tower. Sigh, all that work for a loose ground. I'm guessing that on Saturday evening, I didn't notice the EML light. I ignore the DSC light most of the time since my Sport/DSC control module restores my last setting and I sometimes have DSC off on the street. The Peake tool showing no codes led me astray, but I should've known something DME-wise was up when it later showed the flashing 'E'.
Very odd that I was able to drive the car so far on Michigan roads (rough, esp. the section of M14 that is under contruction) without having any issues at all. No limp mode, no problems.
Note that earlier in the day, the car sputtered and stalled after idling for 30-60 seconds. It took 3 or 4 tries to start it again. I had just washed the underside of the car, then the exterior. I checked codes then, and found none. I assumed I had gotten water somewhere it shouldn't be. Bad assumption. But the car was fine for over 100 miles.
I had the car flatbedded home. I didn't get home until 5:30AM.
Stainless steel braided oil pressure gauge hose replaced with a Kevlar hose and re-routed to not rub on bottom of air intake support bracket. Oil pressure sender replaced with one from ISSPRO EVA oil pressure gauge set. New ISSPRO EVA oil temperature sender installed in oil pan sump cover.
x-brace removed, cleaned and re-installed. Airbox cleaned. New intake clamps installed (they're one-time use).
I ordered an Earl's M12x1.5 to 4AN adapter to replace the adapter block on my oil filter housing, since I'm not using the temperature sender port on the adapter block anymore. Since I'm giving the adapter block to Isaac, I also ordered a 1/8 NPT plug in case he doesn't need both ports.